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How long did your locked Dana 30 last on 35's?

I agree driving style has EVERYTHING to do with it. I am somewhere aggressive. However on my dana 44 setup I was breaking shafts on 38's and an old timer told me I needed to "learn how to drive a dana 44."

He said the "hard turning" of the wheel back n forth and fast tire spins are usually what gets the 44 shafts. I havent slowed my wheel speed down much, but I have slowed my steering down a good bit and keeping in mind that "in a perfect world" I want to keep my wheel as straight as possible since this is how he explained it to me...

Keeping in mind that little bit of info has greatly decreased my shaft breakage, matter of fact I haven't broken one in over a year. I would assume this theory would hold true for a d30 and 35" setup...

Great discussion btw guys!

All that info goes out the window when you put in RCVs. I have video of me sawing the wheel back and forth at 4k rpm to try and climb a rock. Ive also powered up undercuts and was just waiting for something to break. They are truely install it and forget it shafts.
 
All that info goes out the window when you put in RCVs. I have video of me sawing the wheel back and forth at 4k rpm to try and climb a rock. Ive also powered up undercuts and was just waiting for something to break. They are truely install it and forget it shafts.

until they break the same way everything else does.

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You see more broken u-joint axles because their are more u-joint axles, but they break the same as everyone elses stuff.
 
Not even 35s. Myself and 2 other friends have blown-up stock u-joints/shafts locked on 33s.

Yes, full circle clips would help, but also chromoly shafts.

8 years on alloy usa shafts, front locked with 33's. I've worn out a lockright. New axle is arb+30 spline chromoly, should be good for another 8+ years.
 
Never had an issue out of my locked 30 on stock shafts on 35s. I beat on it harder then most. Actually the only time I broke anything axle wise was after I swapped to an HP44. Ive got a buddy of mine that runs 36" Iroks with beadlocks. He's broke a shaft and strip a ring gear. In my experience the dana 30 is a hit and miss axle. Some are strong as nails some are turds.
 
It 100% will depend on your driving style. I broke countless chromoly shafts on 33's but I wheel hard and on truly hard trails. I feel like anyone who has truly wheeled hard will tell you its pointless to put time and energy into a dana 30.

With that said, i have seen people wheel smart and take the bypasses on the difficult obstacles and wheel on stock shafts and 35s without a problem.

For me its not worth the potential of a broken shaft on the trail.

You're wrong. Some guys will say its pointless, but for every one who does five say otherwise, but get discounted because people think they don't wheel hard. :)

The only reason we don't race KOH on a dana 30 is someone gave us a free dana 44, and yay for 5.39 gears.

Dana 30 is fine for 35's. If you're a retard, you can break it, but if you wheel like a responsible human its not all that likely.

Wheeling 33's or 35's on stock shafts is just stupid, though. Stock shafts do not have the u-joint yokes hardened and break very, very easily compared to aftermarket shafts that are hardened complete.

You basically said exactly what i did in a different way...

Its absolutely will always boil down to how you drive. Ive done it and would never again spend money on shafts for a 30. I would much rather put it towards a larger axle.
 
Countless? Really? or exagerating?

Meh, I wheel truly hard trails and I (generaly) don't take bypasses. I have very little time and energy in my D30. It's held up to a lot of wheeling. I've thought about upgrading axles... but it hasn't let me down, so why should I? You might wheel a type of trail that I have not? slippery where wheel spin is necessary.

3 outers and 2 inners. all were alloy usa. luckily they kept sending me new ones.


We wheeled nearly every weekend of the season and as much as possible in the winter. almost all our trails are up creek beds so a lot of slippery rock and logs you have to bump over. most of my breaks have been on waterfalls with ledges.
 
a good buddy of mine has run 35s on a d30 with a locker and stock shafts for years. he broke a lot of stock u joints and stock shafts. since he trussed it and put chromos in he has had no issues. he goes anywhere and kept up most of the time when i was on 37s and d44s. a d30 will handle 35s no problems.
 
You basically said exactly what i did in a different way...

Its absolutely will always boil down to how you drive. Ive done it and would never again spend money on shafts for a 30. I would much rather put it towards a larger axle.


Uh, no. I called you flat out wrong, did *not* agree with you.

It 100% will depend on your driving style. I broke countless chromoly shafts on 33's but I wheel hard and on truly hard trails. I feel like anyone who has truly wheeled hard will tell you its pointless to put time and energy into a dana 30.

Cal said:
You're wrong. Some guys will say its pointless, but for every one who does five say otherwise, but get discounted because people think they don't wheel hard.

The only reason we don't race KOH on a dana 30 is someone gave us a free dana 44, and yay for 5.39 gears.

Dana 30 is fine for 35's. If you're a retard, you can break it, but if you wheel like a responsible human its not all that likely.

Wheeling 33's or 35's on stock shafts is just stupid, though. Stock shafts do not have the u-joint yokes hardened and break very, very easily compared to aftermarket shafts that are hardened complete.

If you think I was saying the same thing you were, you need to get your head out of your ass. :)
 
^^ my last post reads more personal than it was really intended to.


i'm not going to edit it because it does make the point, but understand i wasn't quite trying to call you as retarded as it reads.

mostly trying to say that i can not agree with you any less.
 
For what it's worth. I've wheeled 33's on a d30 locked for two years now and only borken the short side u-joint/shaft twice. For the most part i can throttle as hard as i want and dont break anything. On the other hand I have friends that run 35's and 36's and break any time they have a tire in a bind and throttle hard. IMHO 33's are about all your going to get out of a d30. I don't see any point in running a larger tire if you can't drive it like you stole it. :cheers:
 
It 100% will depend on your driving style. I broke countless chromoly shafts on 33's but I wheel hard and on truly hard trails. I feel like anyone who has truly wheeled hard will tell you its pointless to put time and energy into a dana 30.

With that said, i have seen people wheel smart and take the bypasses on the difficult obstacles and wheel on stock shafts and 35s without a problem.

For me its not worth the potential of a broken shaft on the trail.

You're wrong. Some guys will say its pointless, but for every one who does five say otherwise, but get discounted because people think they don't wheel hard. :)

The only reason we don't race KOH on a dana 30 is someone gave us a free dana 44, and yay for 5.39 gears.

Dana 30 is fine for 35's. If you're a retard, you can break it, but if you wheel like a responsible human its not all that likely.

Wheeling 33's or 35's on stock shafts is just stupid, though. Stock shafts do not have the u-joint yokes hardened and break very, very easily compared to aftermarket shafts that are hardened complete.

This is what i was referring to Cal.



^^ my last post reads more personal than it was really intended to.


i'm not going to edit it because it does make the point, but understand i wasn't quite trying to call you as retarded as it reads.

mostly trying to say that i can not agree with you any less.

Quite being a sally. :D Trust me, your not going to offend me. lol

This is why i like Cal. He aint afraid to lay it on ya!
 
until they break the same way everything else does.

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You see more broken u-joint axles because their are more u-joint axles, but they break the same as everyone elses stuff.

I know people have broken them, even a guy I know personally, but what was that out of, a D60?

RCV told me the warranty was good on my D30 shafts up to a 40" tire, so I don't think any sane person with a 30 is going to break one very easily.
 
I hope you're mistaken. I'd hate to think a company is going to tell you you're good to 40's and put 35's in the fine print..
 
a good buddy of mine has run 35s on a d30 with a locker and stock shafts for years. he broke a lot of stock u joints and stock shafts. since he trussed it and put chromos in he has had no issues. he goes anywhere and kept up most of the time when i was on 37s and d44s. a d30 will handle 35s no problems.


that's me, and yea, hes right. I wheel hard on my 30 and its held up great
 
I wheeled my tj with the 4.0, auto, 4to1 teralow, 4.88 gears, locked f/r, and 35s. It weighed 5k gassed and with tools/spare parts. Ive brought mine through billings canyon under its own power multiple times and never blew an hp d30 stock shaft. It all depends on how much u care about your front axle. If your really worried and you really dont want to snap a shaft your gonna stop the moment u feel your tires bind. Also, air time snaps axles components (among other things) once your tires come off the ground all the bind leaves your drive train, your tires gain alot of speed and momentum, and slams horrendously to a halt with multiplied force to your components. Most of the time your shafts are the weakest link, so they go first. Drive like a sane individual and your shafts will survive. If your like a buddy of mine and getting over the obstacle means more then life itself and u have a panic attack, like a spaz, then get RCVs or a bigger axle. Otherwise feel your jeep out, break one shaft and youll know its limits. That way once it feels like it did when it snapped you'll know to stop.
 
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