home made long arms

[jeep/bronco]

Probably not a can of worms you really want to open up...surely to be the source of a lot of hearsay and information based off measurements that aren't right.

lol not trying open can of worms just have not ever heard anything about it

 

[jeep/bronco]

50's vette sitting beside a 911 wish my garage looked like that (wish i had a garage actually)

that is an extremely nice setup and if someone had the ability to fab that up the cost seems to be very reasonable for what you get the rustys springs up front and utilizing the stock xj springs in the rear i like alot. the currie anti rock was pretty costly im sure. but its obvious you are very good at fabrication, so why would you buy the currie setup it seems to be something that could be replicated very easily?

how much weight did this at to your xj and would that additional weight actually hurt or help the cog

 

[mjma]

how much weight did this at to your xj and would that additional weight actually hurt or help the cog

Depends on where you add the weight. If you add weight in axles, your COG will drop down. If you add weight to the roof, your COG goes up.




I've got a TnT longarm, and although it is nice, rides excellent, flexes a rediculous amount, next step is a 3 link.

 

[jeep/bronco]

Depends on where you add the weight. If you add weight in axles, your COG will drop down. If you add weight to the roof, your COG goes up.

thats what i was thinking so adding that much weight to the bottom of the jeep would actually make it more stable maybe a little more bulky feeling but i would think it would be an improvement.

 

[vetteboy]

why would you buy the currie setup it seems to be something that could be replicated very easily?

It's easy, except for the splined and heat treated 4340 cro-moly sway bar itself. Ordinary steel would flex once and stay that way, but the metallurgy involved in the bar with the Currie kit lets it return straight every time and suffer much less from fatigue.

 

[jeep/bronco]

It's easy, except for the splined and heat treated 4340 cro-moly sway bar itself. Ordinary steel would flex once and stay that way, but the metallurgy involved in the bar with the Currie kit lets it return straight every time and suffer much less from fatigue.

so theres alot more there than meets the eye makes sense
what did that set you back?

 

[vetteboy]

It was around $330 or so. My view of 'expensive' things on this rig is unfortunately quite skewed at this point.

Here's the writeup.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=931758

 

[jeep/bronco]

330 thats not bad really if it makes as dramatic of an improvement as you said
but from what i gathered from your writeup it could very easily be a secondary thing, run with the setup for a while till you could afford to drop another 300 bucks into it, in others words its nice to have but not required. is that right?

what is your view on expensive things?

 

[vetteboy]

It's a great improvement, but it's not for everyone. Especially if you still have leaf springs. As far as a 'secondary' upgrade, it's along the same lines as lockers, a winch, etc. It's not necessary for the rig to go down the trail but it makes it a lot better once you've got it.

Expensive...it adds up.

Front Yukon 35-spline shafts & spicer u-joints. $600+shipping.
Front Detroit. $569+shipping.
Front Detroit rebuild after blowing it up. $380.
14-bolt rear + all options. $650
Advance Adapters NV4500 retrofit set, $700.
Doubler box and dana 300, $450.
DOM and joints for all links and steering, $1000.
Tires, $1000.
Roll cage tube, $500.

And to think that this is among the 'cheaper' way to build something big. Hell, I didn't even have to pay for the front Dana 60.

 

[jeep/bronco]

It's a great improvement, but it's not for everyone. Especially if you still have leaf springs. As far as a 'secondary' upgrade, it's along the same lines as lockers, a winch, etc. It's not necessary for the rig to go down the trail but it makes it a lot better once you've got it.

Expensive...it adds up.

Front Yukon 35-spline shafts & spicer u-joints. $600+shipping.
Front Detroit. $569+shipping.
Front Detroit rebuild after blowing it up. $380.
14-bolt rear + all options. $650
Advance Adapters NV4500 retrofit set, $700.
Doubler box and dana 300, $450.
DOM and joints for all links and steering, $1000.
Tires, $1000.
Roll cage tube, $500.

And to think that this is among the 'cheaper' way to build something big. Hell, I didn't even have to pay for the front Dana 60.

Thats less than 5 grand and im assuming its a pretty reliable build so that doesnt seem that bad. you cant buy anything out there for 5 grand that will come close to being as capable as your setup i dont think
but on the other hand the amount of man hours in it is probably insane

how did you blow up the detroit is that common?

 

[vetteboy]

Those are just the bigger things that I remember. I would guess there's easily twice that much in the build.

Detroits usually only blow up if something else blows up first, like an axle shaft.

 

[TNT]

Those are just the bigger things that I remember. I would guess there's easily twice that much in the build.

Detroits usually only blow up if something else blows up first, like an axle shaft.

Wisconsin Electric has Detroits in most of their International 4700's they have and 9 times of of 10 when thet break an axle they grenade the Detroit.

We sell them about 40 Detroits a year.

 

[jeep/bronco]

I wonder why they do that?

 

[TNT]

I wonder why they do that?

It's because of the shock load the Detroit sees when going from under a full load on both sides and then when the shaft breaks it causes the load to instantly double on the opposite side which grenades the Detroit.

 

[vetteboy]

It's because of the shock load the Detroit sees when going from under a full load on both sides and then when the shaft breaks it causes the load to instantly double on the opposite side which grenades the Detroit.

Nah, mine broke on the side that was all bound up. The opposite tire was in the air at the time.

The problem is the amount of slop that they build into Detroits. What happened is I grenaded a 35-spline drive flange, which released a whole ton of energy into the side gear and clutch/HOR, and it slammed forward into the side that wasn't moving and blew itself up. It's all about rapid energy release having no where to go.

This is why Lock-Rights and spools are somewhat better in that respect; there's more metal around the shaft itself to absorb the energy in a break.

The slop in a Detroit isn't a defect or a problem with manufacturing...it's just the way they work. You get an extremely durable and solid locking action, but to be able to unlock they need that movement. Very rarely will you ever see one break on its own.

 

[jeep/bronco]

so if this is such a common problem with the detroits why use them?
also with my stock axles and a setup like yours vetteboy? or if anything put one of the ford rearends i have laying around in

i have a bronco with 44 up front but its a ttb susp setup any way this could be used in a jeep?

 

[vetteboy]

Because if you run shafts that are strong enough, you'll never break one. The same cannot be said for a lockrite/aussie (which relies on the stock carrier). I have no desire to run a selectable, and spools just bring the suck.

I would not recommend running anything close to what I've got. You don't want to make that jump from a stock rig. Learn more - much more - about what's under it now before even thinking about it.

TTB is junk no matter what it's in.

 

[Ba-Riedo]

I've got a TnT longarm, and although it is nice, rides excellent, flexes a rediculous amount, next step is a 3 link.

what makes you wanan go to a 3 link now?

 

[jeep/bronco]

TTB is junk no matter what it's in.

YEA i know but is the d44 usable in a jeep or would it only work in a ttb setup

 

[xj92]

The Dana 44 is the TTB suspension, it's in 2 parts, scissored sort of. And no, you don't want to use it. You can use the diff cover and the outer components to swap onto another D44 axle, but that's all it'd be good for.