High steer, flipserts, and TRE's

[rehab]

anyone know where to get tube addapters for 7/8 TPI?

edit, nvm, i found them: these are the correct size right?
http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TUBE&Category_Code=ste

 

[RCP Phx]

The JCR kit is a UTK kit,the taper is in the TRE itself.
Correction,I forgot that TRE has no taper(stock),it was used for the steering dampner!
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6

 

[XJtoy]

So you could ask to get it unmodified so you could do it what ever way you won’t I see thanks.

 

[cal]

Yes, or buy the end unmodified at any parts store - its a standard chevy tie rod end.

 

[cracker]

The JCR kit is a UTK kit,the taper is in the TRE itself.
Correction,I forgot that TRE has no taper(stock),it was used for the steering dampner!
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6

That is the shittiest design ever.

I had Dana 44 high steer and broken three of them and Fishboy has bent two of them. Between both of us, we've tried most brands and they ALL fail. 4 of them failed without hydro assist and one with.

Go rod end and run it like Goat did:

It was so frustrating I went

 

[monkeyevil]

That is the shittiest design ever...

Sorry to hear that TRE doesn't work for you. Some people are just hard on stuff. I've had the ES2233L in my YJ for 4 years now, stock knuckles, WJ knuckles, Highsteer on a 44... have never bent one. Currently running 36 SX's and non hydro steering.

Not saying it's not unbendable, but sometimes depending on driving style, tire size, and how easy it is for rocks to get to your steering you just need to look at other options.

We have quite a few sets of steering out there now, and we have warrantied maybe half a dozen of those 2233L's... been selling this product for 4-5 years now.

 

[monkeyevil]

Also since we are getting on the hiem topic I will repost this that I wrote on another forum...

Hiems and TRE's are a personal preference, if your going to go with a hiem on the factory knuckles there are some things to look out for.

With a regular bolt (2A/2B) and a drilled hole there is a lot of slop between the bolt and the hole. No matter how tight you get that bolt it still wants to wallow back and forth in the hole on the knuckle. This wears the knuckle, wears the bolt, and potentially leads to the failure of the joint.... usually at the worst times.

Since the tooling and hardware needed to make a perfect machined fit is not always cost effective (or feasable), this is where we get cone washers and tapers (think a TRE.)

One way to take care of this problem is to mount a tab that the bolt goes through before it goes through the heim. This holds the top end of the bolt and prevents the bolt from acting like a lever (the fulcrum being the knuckle that was drilled.) This is called double sheer.

You could also use something like this... reason is because as you tighten the bottom nut it pulls the tapers tigher into the taper on the knuckle. This means that there is no slop for the bolt to wallow around. Makes a MUCH safer connection.

http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=770
Heim Joint Stud [47-31500] $18.00

I hope that helps, just don't want anyone getting hurt

 

[cracker]

Sorry to hear that TRE doesn't work for you. Some people are just hard on stuff. I've had the ES2233L in my YJ for 4 years now, stock knuckles, WJ knuckles, Highsteer on a 44... have never bent one. Currently running 36 SX's and non hydro steering.

Not saying it's not unbendable, but sometimes depending on driving style, tire size, and how easy it is for rocks to get to your steering you just need to look at other options.

We have quite a few sets of steering out there now, and we have warrantied maybe half a dozen of those 2233L's... been selling this product for 4-5 years now.

The really odd thing about them is they bend outward (towards the front of the vehicle) so it is not from a frontal impact.

My associate and I run 37s and our play ground is JV, which is not the easiest on equipment. I can say my driving style may lack finesse but my buddies has excellent finesse.

Parts Mike sells the same stuff and he claims he has only heard of one guy breaking one (actuallt bent it) and it too was out at JV and it was a Toyota totally bound up at full throttle (his story).

I am not a fan of crossover steering as I don't beleive the angles are 'great' compared to 'inverted T'. That is why I commented on Goatmans set up as being 'good.'

 

[monkeyevil]

Parts Mike sells the same stuff and he claims he has only heard of one guy breaking one (actuallt bent it) and it too was out at JV and it was a Toyota totally bound up at full throttle (his story).

Either he is stretching the truth or people aren't calling him back. Like I said we have had heard of half dozen or so (I can think of 4 off the top of my head) bend in 5 years. We have also had two tie-rods bent, with both TRE's staying intact. I would ASSUME he sells more of those TRE's then we do.

We are willing to be honest about our products. It costs us more in the long run to not be. The best solution for steering is to get it up in the air higher than stock, but unfortunately on a d30 it costs a lot of money or takes a ton of time to do right.

We have had a few people install our kit over the knuckle (I did one at the shop here as well) and it's a TON of work to get the clearance for the rod at full lock and you still have to run 3/16" to 1/4" of spacer behind the steering stops.

Using hiems (like you pictured above) is another idea as long as you use quality parts, and mount them right. The downside is that you have to turn the tie-rod rod 360deg to align it, or unmount them hiems and twist them individually. Which some people don't mind.

The big benefit to the Tera knuckle, or the WJ knuckles is while the tie-rod is still in the same place, you can run identical ends on each side (both look like the ES2234R) and not only does it look really clean, there is about 3" less TRE to bend.

If anyone has any questions about steering parts or machining even if it has nothing to do with our kit, give me a call. I will be happy to help anyway I can.

~Daryl

 

[lapisxj]

Ok, I got my reamer in and am working on getting things drilled and reamed out to the correct size. How far should I take the reamer in? I definitely don't want to take it too far and ream out too much.

 

[cal]

Ream just a little, put the TRE you plan to use into the hole, see how it fits. Clean ream a little more, try again. rinse. repeat.

Don't forget to clean the hole out before each test.

The knuckles are soft, its very easy to ream too much. The pitman arm is hard, it takes a while to ream it out, don't give up.

 

[lapisxj]

Well I was actually looking for a better explination than that. A quick call to JCR offroad answered my question. Thanks Daryl! The thing to keep in mind is that the threaded portion should be recessed into the tapered hole by a thread or two. That way you make sure that you are getting adequate clamping of the tapers. If the beginnings of the taper (or the transition between the taper and threads) is starting to show out the end of the hole then you have possibly gone too far.

I've got the knuckles reamed out and the steering arms built in the past couple of weeks. The 3/8" walled DOM tubing I used had to be bored out to 1" for the threaded insert and then bored out 7/8" ID deeper in for the extra TRE threads to extend into the tubing. I welded up the inserts and painted them Lapis Blue to match the jeep last night. I also painted the new Rockcrusher diff cover while I was at it. The new lockright is already installed and waiting for the new diff cover. This weekend I'll take the torch and remove the swaybar brackets and clearance the coil buckets. Does anyone have better pictures of this?

 

[XJsurf]

I have a entire DOM heim set up if anyone is interested?
also have the extra knuckles drilled as well
you will need two new heims thats it

MrMom, the entire DOM heim set up is the whole steering upgrade. Similar to JCR, Rustys and etc. How hard is it to swap the knuckles over??? How much are you wanting to sell it for?

 

[lapisxj]

Well the steering stabilizer bracket has been torched off the axle, the swaybar link brackets are off, and the coil buckets are about as cleared as they're going to get. It looks like the steering stops will need to be adjusted about .25-.375" out per side. Now my problem is that the drag link and the track bar touch when turned. It is looking like I will have to relocate the track bar rearward and upward (axle end). I'm going to try and keep the frame end as is.

 

[Gojeep]

You would have to raise the trackbar anyway if you are doing a tie rod flip as it must remain perfectly parallel to the drag link. See my write up on doing a OTK. www.go.jeep-xj.info

 

[MrMom]

MrMom, the entire DOM heim set up is the whole steering upgrade. Similar to JCR, Rustys and etc. How hard is it to swap the knuckles over??? How much are you wanting to sell it for?

shoot I dont know make me a offer tired of looking at it
yes it was run as a high steer so all the other stuff track bar and sway links will all have to be modified
I have the track bar that was made for it as well.
send me a address and I will send some pics

 

[XJsurf]

MrMom,
Just shot you a PM

 

[XJsurf]

shoot I dont know make me a offer tired of looking at it
yes it was run as a high steer so all the other stuff track bar and sway links will all have to be modified
I have the track bar that was made for it as well.
send me a address and I will send some pics

What would I have to do to modify my track bar and sway links? Would it be worth the time and money rather than getting a setup from JCR?

 

[Stumpalump]

Can I just flip the drivers side and at least get it and some of the tie rod out of the way without all the extra work?

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Can I just flip the drivers side and at least get it and some of the tie rod out of the way without all the extra work?

yes, but you will still need to move the sway bar mount on that side of the axle, as it will be in the way