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help me -simple oveheating and now........
- Thread starter gupandme
- Start date
I put in my new bottle, filled her up and bled her out per Eagle and Cheap's recomendations, and she burped up air, and sucked down fluid. :clap: This only worked once, however :bawl:
It seems to stay right @ 210 on the road at speed, but as soon as I put it in four and start to crawl, it overheats, FAST, and there is no stopping it. The radiator stays cold, and the top hose gets rock hard...just pressure or steam.
Maybe air still in there? Keep in mind it's <20 degrees here.-Oh yeah...and I got the electric fan working....makes no diff.Should fluid be coming out of the top hose fitting into the bottle all the time?
Thanks to all.
It seems to stay right @ 210 on the road at speed, but as soon as I put it in four and start to crawl, it overheats, FAST, and there is no stopping it. The radiator stays cold, and the top hose gets rock hard...just pressure or steam.
Maybe air still in there? Keep in mind it's <20 degrees here.-Oh yeah...and I got the electric fan working....makes no diff.Should fluid be coming out of the top hose fitting into the bottle all the time?
Thanks to all.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Take the thermostat out and see what happens, one overheat can destroy a tstat, with the tstat out of the way you will have unrestricted fluid flow and can check the other parts of the system. Once you have the problem worked out you can then replace it with an OEM dealer Tstat.
Just out of curiousity, did you route your belts correctly ??
As for the Fwd and reverse pumps the F or R is stamped usually on the impeller itself.
One more thing, drop the lower hose and pour water in thru the top, see if any thing actually goes thru it. I've seen some pretty piss poor solder jobs and there is no telling if the fins are plugged or not, just a thought.
Just out of curiousity, did you route your belts correctly ??
As for the Fwd and reverse pumps the F or R is stamped usually on the impeller itself.
One more thing, drop the lower hose and pour water in thru the top, see if any thing actually goes thru it. I've seen some pretty piss poor solder jobs and there is no telling if the fins are plugged or not, just a thought.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Damn, stupid question I know but HOW did you check the serpentine belt pressure, I don't wanna hear 'pushed it with my fingers', 'twisted it with my thumbs' 'tightned it till I though it was good'. A new belt defined as one that has run for LESS then 15min is supposed to be 80-90lbs, a used belt is supposed to be around 70Lbs.
Most peoples guess of 70lbs is closer to 30 or 40lbs. I use a NAPA supplied Krikit II tension tool, about $14 bucks, takes the guess work out and also wins bets, the good kind, beer and pizza bets
Oh and the fan is facing the right direction and not pushing air out ?? I don't think you can get it on backwards but it might be possible.
Like I said, one overheat can ruin a thermostat, you remove that variable when you remove it to troubshoot.
Hmmm, I also wonder, it runs fine on hiway speed but overheats crawling or at low speed, classic fan clutch problem.
Most peoples guess of 70lbs is closer to 30 or 40lbs. I use a NAPA supplied Krikit II tension tool, about $14 bucks, takes the guess work out and also wins bets, the good kind, beer and pizza bets
Oh and the fan is facing the right direction and not pushing air out ?? I don't think you can get it on backwards but it might be possible.
Like I said, one overheat can ruin a thermostat, you remove that variable when you remove it to troubshoot.
Hmmm, I also wonder, it runs fine on hiway speed but overheats crawling or at low speed, classic fan clutch problem.
- Location
- Terra Firma
RichP said:
Good point, but that would not explain the upper hose being cold. That symptom suggests no coolant circulating, which says to me there is still air in the system.
Eagle said:
No...the hose gets plenty hot now...also gets rock hard..leading me to think it's steam. the radiator does get hot, but only on the bottom pass. side. (About 4 sq. inches)
I did just guess on the belt, but I've guessed before and apparently gotten it close...I will check it, but I really don't think that's the problem. Fan clutch is good.......I know there is air in the system, why won't it come out?
89 has a real good point, I never though about that bottom hose collapsing...will hafta have a look see.
- Location
- In the islands
I do not know much about the closed cooling on the XJ. However, I have a suggestion. While you are at it, check the hose routing between the engine, plastic bottle and the heater core. If some one attached them to the wrong fitting it could prevent the water from moving in the correct direction and trapping air in the system at the same time.
Hawaiian Style
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- JAX
Did you get it fixed yet?
Here's my checklist of ez to find things that may help:
1. Is the coolant circulating? CHECK and see if while the engine is running the coolant is flowing into the pressure bottle. If it's not then you've got a flow issue. (plugged radiator, dead pump, ect)
2. Does it boil? If it's boiling after you shut it down I can almost guarantee that you've got a leak in the system. Most likely culprits are the o-ring on the pressure bottle or the pressure bottle has a crack in it. 25 bucks including shipping from quadratec. I'd replace it if it looks yellow and brittle anyway.
Those seem to be the most common problems with the closed system. I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it theory" so I run closed still. If the day comes I can't fix it anymore I'll swap to open. So far 3 years and no problems I couldn't fix easily.
Good luck!!
Here's my checklist of ez to find things that may help:
1. Is the coolant circulating? CHECK and see if while the engine is running the coolant is flowing into the pressure bottle. If it's not then you've got a flow issue. (plugged radiator, dead pump, ect)
2. Does it boil? If it's boiling after you shut it down I can almost guarantee that you've got a leak in the system. Most likely culprits are the o-ring on the pressure bottle or the pressure bottle has a crack in it. 25 bucks including shipping from quadratec. I'd replace it if it looks yellow and brittle anyway.
Those seem to be the most common problems with the closed system. I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke don't fix it theory" so I run closed still. If the day comes I can't fix it anymore I'll swap to open. So far 3 years and no problems I couldn't fix easily.
Good luck!!
Last edited:
sorry for not updating....
replaced bottle, tightened belt and REMOVED brand new t-stat-and everything works great(except it doesn't really warm up...but duh...) nice hot radiator, no pressure build up, h2o flowing through all my hoses!!!. I have another new t-stat from the stealership and am gonna go put it in tonight. maybe just a lemon thermostat and a cracked pressure bottle after all......
Much thanks to Cheap, 91 , and Eagle for all the great advice. :cheers: :clap: I guess it's time to join
:doh:
replaced bottle, tightened belt and REMOVED brand new t-stat-and everything works great(except it doesn't really warm up...but duh...) nice hot radiator, no pressure build up, h2o flowing through all my hoses!!!. I have another new t-stat from the stealership and am gonna go put it in tonight. maybe just a lemon thermostat and a cracked pressure bottle after all......
Much thanks to Cheap, 91 , and Eagle for all the great advice. :cheers: :clap: I guess it's time to join
:doh: