??Header Wrap??

[Mega Fattie]

Well....this thread was pointless.

You could have googled this.

 

[MrAnderson]

i did google it

 

[Johnnie Walker]

The real question is.. when are you going RED?

 

[jeeperjohn]

I would love to get a new APN header and do some minor strengthening to it then have it ceramic coated inside and out, then have it professionally wrapped with sleeves custom fit to the tubes. Also would like to have my intake ceramic coated on the outside.

 

[Talyn]

That has nothing to do with header wrap, and everything to do with buying a piece of crap manifold.

No, you obviously don't know crap. Anything that will cause that kind of damage will do it equally to a high dollar header as well. I've seen it happen on high dollar/high quality headers personally.

Well....this thread was pointless

Perhaps for you.

 

[MrAnderson]

i looked into having it coated but it would seem no one local does it had a automotive painter friend of mine say he could ask around but she goes under the knife tomorrow morning for the new motor so its kinda a times up situation for me. new motor, new mounts, banks header and thats all she wrote for my cash reserve

 

[Talyn]

Appropriate coaters are hard to find locally. The best I have found is Calico and Swain tech. They hold up well to the heat.

 

[lazyxj]

i did google it

There are other things you can do to keep the under hood heat down. After ten years of using my 01 as a DD, I have tried just about everything to cure the heat soak problem in warm weather.
This winter has been so warm that it has already occurred several times.

The obvious problem is the rapid heat rise, generated by the two mini-cats when the cooling fan stops. At some point, the temperature rises to where the gas boils, a form of vapor lock.
Insulating things only works so far to prevent heat soak. Forcing the heat out seems to be the only 100% effective prevention. Nothing has worked as well for me as a three minute fan timer, used on hot shut-downs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157617434915718/
It works even better with hood vents. The aux electric fan is perfectly positioned to vent the driver's side of the engine. Adding hood vent lets the heat naturally rise and exit.

The most effective add-on has been wrapping the bottom of the intake manifold with reflective insulation, the same stuff you can use on the fuel rail.
It reflects a lot of the heat away from the manifold and the difference can be seen by monitoring the intake air temp (IAT). Earlier engines can use an aluminum sheet as a shield but the 2000-2001s do not have the clearance.
While you are at it, the driver's side of engine block and oil pan can benefit from a layer of reflective insulation.
My 2001's oil pan had a burnt varnish layer next to where the cats sit and nowhere else, caused by the cat's heat. They are evil things but I'm stuck with them as long as it is still a street legal vehicle.
Tried a 185 degree thermostat but it had no positive effect. It slightly dropped the mileage so the 195 degree thermostat was returned.
A defective or weak check valve in the fuel pump will let the gas, in the fuel rail, boil at a lower temperature, so you might to test this to make sure it holds pressure for more than a few minutes. A leaky injector could also do the same.

 

[Mega Fattie]

No, you obviously don't know crap. Anything that will cause that kind of damage will do it equally to a high dollar header as well. I've seen it happen on high dollar/high quality headers personally.

Im assuming you posted that pic because it is on the topic of header wrap causing damage to manifolds. If wrap did not cause that damage, why post the pic?

Please continue thinking you are the only other person in this thread that has any kind of hands on experience, or history on this subject.

 

[lazyxj]

.

Please continue thinking you are the only other person in this thread that has any kind of hands on experience, or history on this subject.

OK, I'll stick my hand up.
I destroyed a high quality set of headers on a Ford pickup in less than two years by wrapping them. When unwrapped, the metal next to the flanges was paper thin. The headers blew out at the flanges, where the temperature is the highest. Steel oxidizes at room temperature, the rate increases as the temperature rises. Hotter it gets, the faster the steel goes away...Chem 101 stuff.
If the manufactures say not to wrap, would you suppose they have a reason?

 

[xeroOTG]

The most effective add-on has been wrapping the bottom of the intake manifold with reflective insulation, the same stuff you can use on the fuel rail.

Would this work? I realize this is for boostwerk's turbo setup, but I'd imagine (knowing nothing about turbos and the heat introduced by running one) using foil like he did would work for you.

 

[lazyxj]

Would this work? I realize this is for boostwerk's turbo setup, but I'd imagine (knowing nothing about turbos and the heat introduced by running one) using foil like he did would work for you.

Yes, the gold colored insulation is the high end stuff. Looks like something NASA would use.

 

[Talyn]

Yes, that I what I use on intakes too.

 

[BADaXJ]

I had an '01 that had heat soak problems. Put a timer with a relay on the electric fan, and never had a problem again. Not once! I would hit the fan switch about 2 minutes prior to parking, then hit the timer switch after parking and the timer was set for about 3 minutes. It would run for 3 minutes then turn the fan off. That's it. Not much work to install but you do have to push the button. You could probably wire it up to turn on when the ignition turns off, or when you open the door etc.

When I saw the header on the table and the engine on the stand, my first thought was just get rid of the stupid '00+ pre-cat system. I think the only issue is the computer needs those two o2 sensors, maybe you can swap to an older computer? You'd have to buy another header, but it seems like you've done most of the work for the swap already!

 

[Hillbilly XJ]

I've been a Drag Racer for almost 45 yrs. and long ago we did wrap the headers to keep heat down but planned on replacing them often. Those were the days when you could buy a good race header for $250 or so. Fast forward to the late 80's to mid 90's when they were going for $800+ then we were sending them out to a new company Jet Hot to have them coated.

It made a world of difference and I still used them on my last car a twin turbo air to water inter-cooled 421 ci. Dart SBC 1592 HP race tune to a pump gas 673 HP street tune and used Jet Hot in a lot of places.

BTW this in in a 1978 Malibu Wagon on drag radials, street legal also, my last build .

 

[techno1154]

I've been a Drag Racer for almost 45 yrs. and long ago we did wrap the headers to keep heat down but planned on replacing them often. Those were the days when you could buy a good race header for $250 or so. Fast forward to the late 80's to mid 90's when they were going for $800+ then we were sending them out to a new company Jet Hot to have them coated.

It made a world of difference and I still used them on my last car a twin turbo air to water inter-cooled 421 ci. Dart SBC 1592 HP race tune to a pump gas 673 HP street tune and used Jet Hot in a lot of places.

BTW this in in a 1978 Malibu Wagon on drag radials, street legal also, my last build .

That is nice to know. There have been some talk on internet boards that a ceramic coated exhaust do not hold up, the coating peel after a year +/- . How well would it hold up on a daily driven vehicle. On the site of Jet Hot, there are several different temperature coatings offered. Which would you recommend for a DD XJ 4.0L. Lastly, would it be of benefit to coat the intake manifold also?

The Ozarks is a really nice place. I used to go there some years ago when I was working in Jefferson City. I also saw a few power boat races there.

 

[MrAnderson]

When I saw the header on the table and the engine on the stand, my first thought was just get rid of the stupid '00+ pre-cat system. I think the only issue is the computer needs those two o2 sensors, maybe you can swap to an older computer? You'd have to buy another header, but it seems like you've done most of the work for the swap already!

yeaaaaa, the Ca smog tech would not like that much haha

 

[01upcountry]

There are other things you can do to keep the under hood heat down. After ten years of using my 01 as a DD, I have tried just about everything to cure the heat soak problem in warm weather.
This winter has been so warm that it has already occurred several times.

The obvious problem is the rapid heat rise, generated by the two mini-cats when the cooling fan stops. At some point, the temperature rises to where the gas boils, a form of vapor lock.
Insulating things only works so far to prevent heat soak. Forcing the heat out seems to be the only 100% effective prevention. Nothing has worked as well for me as a three minute fan timer, used on hot shut-downs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157617434915718/
It works even better with hood vents. The aux electric fan is perfectly positioned to vent the driver's side of the engine. Adding hood vent lets the heat naturally rise and exit.

The most effective add-on has been wrapping the bottom of the intake manifold with reflective insulation, the same stuff you can use on the fuel rail.
It reflects a lot of the heat away from the manifold and the difference can be seen by monitoring the intake air temp (IAT). Earlier engines can use an aluminum sheet as a shield but the 2000-2001s do not have the clearance.
While you are at it, the driver's side of engine block and oil pan can benefit from a layer of reflective insulation.
My 2001's oil pan had a burnt varnish layer next to where the cats sit and nowhere else, caused by the cat's heat. They are evil things but I'm stuck with them as long as it is still a street legal vehicle.
Tried a 185 degree thermostat but it had no positive effect. It slightly dropped the mileage so the 195 degree thermostat was returned.
A defective or weak check valve in the fuel pump will let the gas, in the fuel rail, boil at a lower temperature, so you might to test this to make sure it holds pressure for more than a few minutes. A leaky injector could also do the same.

I am battling this heat soak issue myself I'm at the point of raising the hood .I wrapped the fuel rail along time ago but, it still boils all the gas out.