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having overheating issues. 94

You said you replaced the radiator, but did you check to make sure that there's no dirt/mud buildup in the AC condenser that's preventing airflow through to the rad?
 
I am using arp head bolts so that shouldn't be a problem. The reason I did the head was to deal with the fact that I would continuously have leaks from every hose clamp, and I tighten them as much as I could. Changed the head and all is good. Head was a spare that I had a machine shop go through and refresh and check. I cleaned everything when I did the rad almost 2 years ago. That is on my list of stuff to check this weekend.
Plans are to bypass my ps cooler and relocate my auto cooler to see if that helps. As well as clean everything. Trans was 220 on way home today. Engine was almost red today. Yet I can idle for an hour, (lunch) with AC on and it's 210 so I don't think is cooling system issue so much as an abundance of heat generated by driving. More exhaust flow, trans, engine under load.
 
Another thought for you. A week or two ago, my 2000XJ started running warm. I concluded the original thermostat housing was two restrictive for flow and also that the waterpump was not working properly. Replaced the thermostat housing with a newer freer flowing design, from Carquest, and replaced the water pump and now temperatures are back to normal.

Best regards,

CJR
 
Dragonlich1961 said:
Trans was 220 on way home today. Engine was almost red today. Yet I can idle for an hour, (lunch) with AC on and it's 210 so I don't think is cooling system issue so much as an abundance of heat generated by driving. More exhaust flow, trans, engine under load.
Click to expand...

My problem was temp creep under load. It would idle and crawl around the trails just fine but if I held the motor over 2500 RPM for very long the needle would creep. Timing chain.

Re transmission temps, I noticed that the trans temp follows the coolant temp by about 40 degrees (give or take 20), so when the engine gets hot the trans fluid gets hot from sharing the radiator, but when the engine is running cool the trans stays cool too. The only way to really prove one or the other is to eliminate the connection, ie delete the trans cooler circuit that goes through the radiator side tank. I did that and found my previous trans was overheating on its own, so I had a replacement built and swapped it in, but the engine heating problems remained even after swapping, and the trans temps still followed the engine temps around.
 
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You definitely have something wrong as you don't even live where it gets hot. Since you've replaced a lot of things one of those parts may be wrong. The first thing that comes to mind would be a std rotation fan clutch the other would be the Flow Kool water pump(never heard much good about them).
 
Temp creep underload is kind of what I'm dealing with. It will cool at idle but driving it down the road and it wants to puke it's brains out. It takes for ever to cool once parked. Trans cooler is already stand alone. It will get hot here, but in July August, it can get 90-100 here. Right now it's 60. I am deleting ps cooler now and cleaning the rad and ac condenser today
 
That's funny, :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: we consider that a "cold wave", I've been here 59yrs now and owned about a dozen XJ's. Currently I have 2 2000's and one only has the original single core with no extras and it runs straight up on temps no matter what.
 
Test-drive one , cleaned radiator condenser and coolers, removed ps temporarily. No discernable change.
Test drive 2, removed grill and placed trans cooler on which mount flat, zip tied in place noticable change in temps. AC on 65 mph, 215ish engine while moving and 220 idle after drive, trans temp was 230-240 while driving. It's hanging out in front but not in perfect air floor.
I will remove restrictor and try again.
 
Dragonlich1961 said:
..... The reason I did the head was to deal with the fact that I would continuously have leaks from every hose clamp, and I tighten them as much as I could. Changed the head and all is good. Head was a spare that I had a machine shop go through and refresh and check........
Click to expand...
Seems to me there's something going on with the head;a block coolant passage blockage or other.
Why were all the coolant hoses leaking with the original head?
Tightening the coolant clamps and replacing the head could of been masking a more serious issue.

Or the replacement head had some kind of install issue.
Maybe the wrong gasket, too much sealant, non compatible head, etc.
 
The head that was on the engine was a spare i swapped in years ago when i had a broken exhaust stud on cyl 6, it was easier to swap the head at that time with a low mileage rebuild unit from my spare engine. The head i just put on fixxed the coolant leaking issue from the hoses was the original head removed years ago. it was completely gone through by a machine shop and checked, he stated that it looked really good for 120k , all valves were good just needed a mil and valve seals.
i was suspect of the head that was on engine due to having over heated it once when a lower hose blew and it got hot enough that is shut off before i noticed.

Third test drive tonight - resrictor removed, ac cruising at 60 was right on 210, temp would swing up at stops to 220 ish. trans is reading 210-220 while driving and read 205 with a temp gun after getting home, with about a 15 degree drop through the cooler, its laid flat on the whinch plate with no air flow. no were near ideal. But it is about 10-15 degrees cooler outside and starter to rain on this drive so the test is slightly biased.
 
RCP Phx said:
You definitely have something wrong as you don't even live where it gets hot. Since you've replaced a lot of things one of those parts may be wrong. The first thing that comes to mind would be a std rotation fan clutch the other would be the Flow Kool water pump(never heard much good about them).
Click to expand...

RCP Phx said:
That's funny, :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: we consider that a "cold wave", I've been here 59yrs now and owned about a dozen XJ's. Currently I have 2 2000's and one only has the original single core with no extras and it runs straight up on temps no matter what.
Click to expand...

What do you say to a woman with 1 black eye, "Nothing I already told her once".
 
trans is reading 210-220 while driving and read 205 with a temp gun after getting home, with about a 15 degree drop through the cooler.
Click to expand...


That seems high. If you're still using the cooler inside the radiator, is the torque converter locking up properly?
 
i can watch the converter lock and unlock with the tach, hit the brakes and watch a 500 rpm jump.
I did find a possible cause, my exhaust collecter was touching the block at the oil pan line. i've never been happy with the gibson header i installed, i had to grind the collector flange down to allow it to bolt up to the block(it is not touching by 1/8). i welded a new flange to the exhaust earlier this year due to the two flanges not meeting correctly and i always ended up with a leak there. the new flage was touching the block right where the oil pan meets. i now have a 1/8 gap(i know not perfect). It took 2 passes with a sawzall to get the flange to just clear.


trans cooler is external only, B&M unit.
 
Almost all the headers are that way, so your reaching for the stars. By your latest post it would be indicative of a crack in one of the chambers.
 
Another update, took it for a drive today after taking care of the exhaust hitting. First drive i have done with both engine and trans cold. also hottest today(70). Running with the air on, engine came up to temp and seamed to stay at 210, trans took a while to come up to temp, but once it started to come up to temp i noticed the engine started to creep. I took if for a 20 mile test drive, same as last one's. Trans even when partailly warm, still seams to hang the 2-3 shift, not a huge issue but possibly related. again by the time i was home, engine and trans were hot, trans 230ish and engine 230ish. pan temps for trans are 215-220. no exhaust leaks that i can tell. trans cooler hot side is 220 after getting to stop.

I'm at wits end. last trip i took to raush (year ago), i belive engine cooled fine but i was still have trans issues, which i have always thought weird since a friend had a 96 with he fitted with d44's 5.13 and 37, has twice the mileage and always ran cooler on trans.
 
mostly sustain 65 mph minor highway. today was very minimal traffic so basiclly sustained 65 mph only stopping once or twice and never for very long. All test drives have been the same path.
 
Not using the intercooler in the radiator and a poorly mounted small external cooler would explain the trans temps being high. I think you just need to figure out why the engine is running so hot.
 
That's a pretty small cooler for a stand alone, that's the size I use on my power steering with a 11" x 11" on my trans.
P1080566_zpsmeltwwwj.jpg
 
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