• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Hack n tap which to buy?

Jakeaz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arizona
Iron rock, Rubicon express, or dirt bound offroads? I plan on doing the hack and tap soon using a spare front xj drive shaft for the rear. Which kit have you guys run and think is better. Also iron rock offers their kit for $200 with a refurbished drive shaft would that be worth it or is it better to go to pick a part and get one for 15 bucks and refurbish it myself?
 
If you have a 1996 + the IRO H&T or DB is the best deal. RE H&T require a Spicer 21229x flange to bolt on the driveshaft, the IRO and DB does not.
 
Last edited:
Since the OP has a 96+,I recommend skipping a the H-n-T and just doing a HD SYE kit.Not much more cost but the cost savings could be alot!
 
the full sye kit will cost around 300-400 more than the hack and tap with no added benefit other than supposidly being way stronger but i know people who have ran 37's in my local jeep club on hack and tap kits lasted over 10 years
 
Man where do you shop,a HnT is 100$ a HD SYE is 200$! There are alot more benefits than just strength,also as already stated,the late t-cases have more issues with the HnT than the early cases.
 
well i got the price because with a hack and tap you can use a front drive shaft of an xj perfect size and in most cases can pick them up for around $30 in good condition. While with a full sye you have to get a custom drive shaft made plus the additional price of the sye kit so hack and tap installed is around $150 were a full sye and drive shaft installed around 350-500 depending on shipping and were you buy everyting from.
 
I have a JB conversions kit on my 2000/4.0/231/C8.25" and can run my front driveshaft!Thats at 6" of lift,btw.
 
Last edited:
well i got the price because with a hack and tap you can use a front drive shaft of an xj perfect size and in most cases can pick them up for around $30 in good condition. While with a full sye you have to get a custom drive shaft made plus the additional price of the sye kit so hack and tap installed is around $150 were a full sye and drive shaft installed around 350-500 depending on shipping and were you buy everyting from.
with a hack and tap you are cutting the shaft yourself. a lot of people will measure and cut the Tcase output shaft so that the shaft sits where it should on its slip shaft. and so they dont destroy their Tcase. the IRO has you do this in their installation instructions.

who said you needed a custom shaft with a full SYE kit? a lot of people claim to use stock front shafts. if you have a manual or something of the sort and need a slightly longer shaft, let me know. i have a spicer PDF that lists litterally hundreds of drive shafts from various makes and models. all you need to do is verify that it uses a 1310 joint.

in the end... your not going to know the ideal length of the shaft you need until the SYE is installed. but a front stocker seems to fit the bill for a lot of people.
 
if you have a 231 go with PORCH sye, it's very similar to AA and if you have a 242 go with IRO's kit both will be fine with the use of a front shaft for up to 4.5 insh of lift.
 
My hnt is bent, and so are a couple of my buddies.

Please explain how you bent your output shaft and provide pictures.



A H&T simply changes the drive shaft connection to the T-Case output shaft, it does not alter the strength of the output shaft. Most issues with H&T SYE's are from improper installation. Cherokee T-cases can handle V-8 power.

Properly installed, a H&T is plenty strong. My H&T has driven 1280 miles to Moab, 4wheeled for a week (including Hell's Revenge) and then driven 1280 miles home, several times.

Both the H&T and the HD SYE can use a stock front drive shaft in most cases. I have installed several of both types of SYE for Lifted XJ's in my local Jeep Club.
 
Please explain how you bent your output shaft and provide pictures.



A H&T simply changes the drive shaft connection to the T-Case output shaft, it does not alter the strength of the output shaft. Most issues with H&T SYE's are from improper installation. Cherokee T-cases can handle V-8 power.

Properly installed, a H&T is plenty strong. My H&T has driven 1280 miles to Moab, 4wheeled for a week (including Hell's Revenge) and then driven 1280 miles home, several times.

Both the H&T and the HD SYE can use a stock front drive shaft in most cases. I have installed several of both types of SYE for Lifted XJ's in my local Jeep Club.

Could be installation error, but i doubt it, ive run a hack and tap for over 2 years, and it never gave me vibes until a couple months ago.

Ill one up you, ive got a video, i gotta find it first.
 
a hack n tap is fine for most of us wheelers. now if youre running huge tires, low gears, a lot of power then i could see needing a full HD SYE. its obviously going to be stronger than a HnT. but for the money, the HnT is a good choice.

i have broken a rear driveshaft and the CV joint and my RE HnT is fine.

003-2.jpg
 
some people mess up when they install the HnT, then they blame the HnT... I also have seen one guy try to tighten the output yoke to like 100 ft/lbs... lol needless to say it popped the threads... he tried to drill and tap it to a bigger size bolt... that did not work well either...
 
Ok so where can I buy an HnT? I keep seeing that Rubicon Express has them but when I put in the search "hack and tap" I get nothing.
I am running 33"s with a 4" lift. I plan to gear it to 4.56. I know I need an sye but like the HnT price.
Please help!
 
The proper term is Slip Yoke Eliminator. Iron Rock Off Road or Dirt Bound will sell you a yoke type hack and tap SYE which is easier and cheaper to install than the Rubicon Express hack and tap SYE.
 
I would go with the IRO hack n tap kit. I have gotten prices just to refurb my front shaft and most were 150 and higher. The IRO kit seems like the best way to go. And they offer the seal and housing for it. When I di my see I just went with advance adapters because I didn't want to f with hunting down a housing. No body made them at that time.
 
Back
Top