hack and tap all read

[dallas xjs]

jeep guy caught me..yes sorry alot of post are in a drunken stooper..to clear this jitter up..i see all xjs that have been lifted with the rear axle about 1-2 inches forward,uncentered in the wheel well...by drilling the u bolt plate 1 1/2 ins on the side closer towards the motor this well correct the axle being a little forward towards the engine..do we all know what iam talking about the u bolt plate..connects to the axle...dont get me wrong i well never ever flame a fellow xjer...some times my thoughts just get twisted during typing on the keyboard...i have the hack and tap in..i have recieved my new driveshaft...and it is great..the rig now feels smoother..h/t install time..right at 40 min..thanks ever one....now bash my rep points...||charles||

 

[sarvermr]

i see all xjs that have been lifted with the rear axle about 1-2 inches forward,uncentered in the wheel well...by drilling the u bolt plate 1 1/2 ins on the side closer towards the motor this well correct the axle being a little forward towards the engine.....||charles||

you know when the wheel stuffs it also moved backwards because the front of the spring is fixed and the shackle is at the rear. have you stuffed yours yet? does it rub the rear of the wheel opening?

is this what you're talking about being moved forward?

its in the perfect location. when it stuffs it is perfectly centered in the opening:

 

[dallas xjs]

no i have just yet..i just got the drive shaft in and we have had crazy storms here so i have been working alot..tommorow work welling iam going to my buddys he has some flex ramps so he says..well see...if i can figure how to host pics i well post back and let you see..i think iam going to be ok though becouse the high arch of the rear springs...thanks so much for that insight...i well be honest though iam starting to feel like iam gonna owe every one who posted to this post a beer....or two..||charles||

 

[ChicksDigWagons]

I can see two reasons to not cut he shaft, maybe three but its a stretch.

1. You're cheap and or poor. Driveshafts are fairly easy to make/modify so you could theoreticly build a SYE kit for free if you had some parts laying around. I seem to recall the front CV yoke yas the same spline count as the rear, 26?? Correct me if I'm wrong. now if the yoke outer diameter matched the seal surface of the rear driveshaft slip yoke you could basicly drill/tap and bolt the CV yoke to the rear output. A front CV driveshaft may or may not fit with or without minor modifications.

2. You don't have any drive-angle problems but want to be able to pull the rear driveshaft without spilling ATF all over the place.

3. This is a stretch, but you would have more usable ground clearance with a shorter driveshaft.

Does that mean its the best way to do it, no, of course not, but in certain circumstances I don't see why not. I don't worry about such things, I'm running a BW 1339

 

[sarvermr]

I can see two reasons to not cut he shaft, maybe three but its a stretch.

1. You're cheap and or poor. Driveshafts are fairly easy to make/modify so you could theoreticly build a SYE kit for free if you had some parts laying around. I seem to recall the front CV yoke yas the same spline count as the rear, 26?? Correct me if I'm wrong. now if the yoke outer diameter matched the seal surface of the rear driveshaft slip yoke you could basicly drill/tap and bolt the CV yoke to the rear output. A front CV driveshaft may or may not fit with or without minor modifications.

2. You don't have any drive-angle problems but want to be able to pull the rear driveshaft without spilling ATF all over the place.

3. This is a stretch, but you would have more usable ground clearance with a shorter driveshaft.

Does that mean its the best way to do it, no, of course not, but in certain circumstances I don't see why not. I don't worry about such things, I'm running a BW 1339

you really are stretching.

1) the spline count is not the same. a front yoke will not bolt up to the rear. even if it would, why would you still not hack the output shaft shorter to get all of those benefits?

 

[ChicksDigWagons]

you really are stretching.

1) the spline count is not the same. a front yoke will not bolt up to the rear. even if it would, why would you still not hack the output shaft shorter to get all of those benefits?

The spinecount may not be the same for the front and rear, however, I am certain there is a stock Spicer part # that does match up. Generally its easier to fine junkyard spicer yokes vs. junkyard SYEs. Which brings me to my next point.

Why wouldn't you hack the output shaft? Because using the existing oil seal in the tail shaft housing is significantly cheaper than using an aftermarket, shorter unit. Of course, somebody handy on a lathe with access to some large round stock could build a new seal housing. But thats really besides the point. While this is definately not ideal, many people have no problems with vibrations or bad driveline angles, but anybody who has ever fragged a rear universal whether on the street or trail can appreaciate a T-case that doesn't puke its guts out without a rear driveshaft. Been there, done that, three times on a stock XJ.

 

[sarvermr]

The spinecount may not be the same for the front and rear, however, I am certain there is a stock Spicer part # that does match up.

if there is a yoke that matches the rear shaft please post the part #. that way everyone could make thier own SYE really cheap. there have been page long threads trying to find this mysterious spicer part #. no one ever has anything to say besides i'm sure its out there. if you post up those #'s you will be everyone's hero.

Why wouldn't you hack the output shaft? Because using the existing oil seal in the tail shaft housing is significantly cheaper than using an aftermarket, shorter unit. Of course, somebody handy on a lathe with access to some large round stock could build a new seal housing. But thats really besides the point. While this is definately not ideal, many people have no problems with vibrations or bad driveline angles, but anybody who has ever fragged a rear universal whether on the street or trail can appreaciate a T-case that doesn't puke its guts out without a rear driveshaft. Been there, done that, three times on a stock XJ.

i'm certainly not arguing that its not good to have a sealed output. of course it is. but on the 97+ housing (which is what he has) you can hack off several inches and still use the existing oil seal. thats what everyone with the RE hack and tap kit does. just hack it!

 

[Rawbrown]

a front yoke will not work for a hack and tap. a HNT uses a bolt to fasten the yoke to the output shaft. a front yoke uses a nut. to \use a front yoke on a rear shaft, you would have to remove the output shaft and machine it in a lathe and cut thread onto it. just take your slip yoke to a machine shop, have then machine it for a bolt in the center. then you just drill and tap.

 

[Clean Racing]

OK guys.....what if there were other options for a SYE besides the lame hack and tap??? How many 242 owners would be interested in the yoke style output much like the 231hd AA kit everyone sells???? You would get the stout heavy duty shaft with 32 spline output for the yoke, and keep the features you like in your 242 to begin with. Anyone interested??? The Prototype is the works right now, comming hopefully soon to a jeep board near you... Honestly what would the average jeep owner expect to pay for a good SYE kit for the 242? I am not at all impressed with the t-woods shaft and flange option for 500$...

Oh well enough said for now....flame if you must...

Scott.

 

[ChicksDigWagons]

a front yoke will not work for a hack and tap. a HNT uses a bolt to fasten the yoke to the output shaft. a front yoke uses a nut. to \use a front yoke on a rear shaft, you would have to remove the output shaft and machine it in a lathe and cut thread onto it. just take your slip yoke to a machine shop, have then machine it for a bolt in the center. then you just drill and tap.

Or you can use a washer like every SYE I've seen uses.