Ford 8.8 Build Thread

[Love2Ride450]

Hey Dave, what year grand marquis did you remove the flange from? I'll be doing this soon also.

 

[bmyohn]

im not sure what your doing for a diff. cover but, i haved a stock cover off of mine if you needed it

 

[Dave41079]

Thanks, I've got the stock cover though. It's pretty crappy, but will do until I decide if I want to do the BTF or the Rockcrusher. I'm torn between the price of the cast one, versus the reliability and ease of modification on the plate steel one.

 

[mecompco]

Agreed. Ran the hard brakeline today and bolted up the soft lines. Pretty much all that's left is assembly, but I'm in no hurry as I am not able to install it for awhile unless the axle fairy comes by and puts 4.10's in my D30.

I've got a nice set of pre-owned D30 Dana Spicer reverse cut gears for sale--bought them off a member here before I decided to go 4.56 instead--if you're interested.

As to the rear diff cover, the SOLID cover has worked well for me. I've dragged it over a number of rocks with no problems as all. I would also recommend the LubeLocker gasket to save future messing with RTV.

 

[Dave41079]

I've got a nice set of pre-owned D30 Dana Spicer reverse cut gears for sale--bought them off a member here before I decided to go 4.56 instead--if you're interested.

As to the rear diff cover, the SOLID cover has worked well for me. I've dragged it over a number of rocks with no problems as all. I would also recommend the LubeLocker gasket to save future messing with RTV.

Definitely going to be doing LubeLockers. I really don't want to put any money into regearing this D30. I might just buy a 4.10 geared axle from a junkyard, and swap it in, then sell my current HPD30 to recoup some of the cost. I found one about 230 miles away from me for $200 on car-part.com. My winter project is going to be bumpers and an HP44 for the front which is why I don't want to put any money into the D30.

 

[robsjeepxj]

I would call Dan back at RuffStuff He has an awesome diff cover for the 8.8 it made from 3/8" steel plate with a 1/2" steel outer mounting bolt flange. It's just plain bombproof and cheaper than any cast crap out there. P.S. no e-brake wouldn't fly in our club. What if you break a hose or have leak? On a hill or an obstacle that might be the end, friend.

 

[feelinsomewheelin]

Do you need a new master cylinder when converting drum brakes to discs in a cherokee, like the conversion in this axle swap?

 

[mecompco]

Do you need a new master cylinder when converting drum brakes to discs in a cherokee, like the conversion in this axle swap?

Nope, just hook it up--works fine. If you have a pre-'95, swapping in a dual diaphram booster and MC will give you more power, but the OEM equipment will give you at least as much braking power as the drums had.

 

[bmyohn]

when i went to discs, i got a ZJ proportioning valve online and swapped it out. i think it was like 30 bucks shipped. it just send the right amount of fluid to the rear discs for better stopping power. so far its worked great for me

 

[Dave41079]

I've been working on a lot of other projects, so this is just kind of sitting to the side in the garage. I was looking at it though and I may go ahead and do the e-brakes too. I'm going to try and trim the dust covers off of the actual piece that houses all of the e-brake components. We'll see how that turns out. I'll have to find a way to get some longer e-brake lines too I'm sure. They're pretty stretched at ~5" of lift.

 

[xjchris98]

What about your driveshaft? Is it going to have to be lengthened?

Im planning on swapping in a 8.8 as well, but will I need to lengthen the driveshaft?

Also with the adaptor flange, the one off the explorer wont work? My brother put an 8.8 from an 01 explorer in his 94 YJ and the flange bolted right up.

 

[whitetrashxj]

when you welded the perches on did you center the axle to the perches or center the diff to the perches, cause the one side of the 8.8 is shorter, if you centered the differential between the perches then your gonna need a wheel spacer or your tire is going to hit your leaf pack,

driveshaft, your prolly gonna have to lenthen it about 2-3 inches,

 

[Dave41079]

when you welded the perches on did you center the axle to the perches or center the diff to the perches, cause the one side of the 8.8 is shorter, if you centered the differential between the perches then your gonna need a wheel spacer or your tire is going to hit your leaf pack,

driveshaft, your prolly gonna have to lenthen it about 2-3 inches,

The driveshaft won't need to be lengthened. I measured from the mounting plates inboard, not from the pumpkin out. The pinion is offset 2-3/16" to the passenger side. This shouldn't cause an issue with the driveshaft as it's only a couple of degrees difference over the length of the shaft and the pinion lengths are very similar. For what it's worth, I have a CV shaft in the back, and I will be sure to measure the difference in the slip before and after so maybe everyone will know for sure. Tires won't hit the leaves because I have wheels with a 4" BS, so no spacers will be used at this time. The WMS is close enough for me. As far as the Explorer companion flange working...it will work if you use a 1310/1330 hybrid u joint. I didn't want to go this route, so I got the other companion flange which will allow me to run a straight 1310 joint.

 

[xjchris98]

As far as the Explorer companion flange working...it will work if you use a 1310/1330 hybrid u joint. I didn't want to go this route, so I got the other companion flange which will allow me to run a straight 1310 joint.

What car/truck has the right flange then? Im using a front shaft in the back with my SYE if that helps any.

Like I said, I could have sworn when my brother did his he picked up a flange from an 01 explorer and it bolted right up to his YJ driveshaft from tom woods. I thought they used the same U-joint.....

 

[Dave41079]

If you look in this picture you'll see that the 1330 flange is on the right and the 1310 flange is on the left. The u-joints are the same diameter, but different lengths. I got mine off of a Grand Marquis, but I'm sure there are other vehicles they reside on.

 

[emr1101]

Agreed. Ran the hard brakeline today and bolted up the soft lines. Pretty much all that's left is assembly, but I'm in no hurry as I am not able to install it for awhile unless the axle fairy comes by and puts 4.10's in my D30.

why not get a d30hp out of a 4cyl with 4.10s

 

[whitetrashxj]

The driveshaft won't need to be lengthened. I measured from the mounting plates inboard, not from the pumpkin out. The pinion is offset 2-3/16" to the passenger side. This shouldn't cause an issue with the driveshaft as it's only a couple of degrees difference over the length of the shaft and the pinion lengths are very similar. For what it's worth, I have a CV shaft in the back, and I will be sure to measure the difference in the slip before and after so maybe everyone will know for sure. Tires won't hit the leaves because I have wheels with a 4" BS, so no spacers will be used at this time. The WMS is close enough for me. As far as the Explorer companion flange working...it will work if you use a 1310/1330 hybrid u joint. I didn't want to go this route, so I got the other companion flange which will allow me to run a straight 1310 joint.

good man, looks like someone did there homework :cheers:

 

[Dave41079]

why not get a d30hp out of a 4cyl with 4.10s

That's the plan, just trying to find one is a bit of a pain. I don't want to drop a ton of cash on it because within 6 months it will be out with an HP44 in the front.

 

[ricot83]

Good Work Dave, I have mine all set and should go in this weekend. I also got a complete Dana 30 with 4.10s that will be swapped in place in the next couple months as well.

 

[stroked88]

you do NOT need nickle rod to weld on the 8.8. you would IF you were welding to CAST IRON, but your not. your welding to CAST STEEL. there is a difference.

cast iron is a very finicky metal to weld on. it is also way to fragile to use in an automotive situation like diff housings.

the diff, as stated above, is made of cast steel. by that, i mean that it is formed in a "mold" (cast) instead of being forged, or milled. the chemical properties of it are the same regarless of if its forge, milled, or cast. however, the way the metal acts when welded changes slightly.

i prefer to use SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding- stick) because i can use a rod with a thicker and faster freezing flux. when you weld on the end of a cast steel piece, it is going to want to drip and run on you. thats why i use a thicker, faster freezing rod is to try to contain that, which helps to maintain the integrety of your weld by preventing porosity. keep your weld puddle small, and keep your speed apropriet for your metal. dont be afraid to have to two pass it.

if you were weding cast on to a piece of plate, i would say 7024 (jet rod) would be good as it has a very thick flux and penetrates very well, but is not a fast freezing flux. however, since this is not an ideal world, you have to compremise a little. i have had good luck with 7018 (low hydrogen) when welding a new track bar mount onto a vac disco D30 (on the cast disco housing). the 7018 is a thicker faster freezing flux, but you still have to pay extra attention to your weld pool.

if you have a piece of scrap cast steel (like an old brake drum or similar) try running a few practice beads in the flat, horizontal and vertical possitions to familiarize yourself with how cast acts when welded. i made a small height adjustable welding tray using a brake drum off an 18 wheeler as my base. it took a little while to get the hang of cast, but it turned out great.

hth,
stewie

7018 is a low hydrogen rod (lo hy) and is meant to only be run up hill for the reason of the flux running into the puddle and causing porosity