Ford 8.8 Build Thread

[BlueCuda]

I am also sporting a $75 8.8 talk about a stroke of luck! Only sweat equity was in loading it up as well .

For shock mounts I just cut the stock ones off of my D35 and shortened them a ton, then welded them on the 8.8. They are mounted just below the tube so they are out of rocks way and help me keep a decent length shock. I was going to mount them on the tube but finding a shock with any kind of travel was tough.

 

[Dave41079]

Ok so I got bored and decided to go ahead with some disassembly. As promised, here are a few pictures.

This is the reason why I am using a passenger side soft line on the drivers side. The stock 8.8 drivers side line has the junction block as part of it, and the line going to the body. I'm putting an XJ junction block on and my stainless rear brake line. I'll tee into the hardline somewhere after I get all the bracketry welded on.

The next steps were disassembly. First I removed the cross shaft retaining bolt. It's 5/16".

I then slid out the cross pin.

After the cross pin is removed, you can press the axle shaft from the outside towards the center to see the c-clip.

Remove the c-clip with a pair of pliers.

Then you can slide the axle shafts out. At that point you can remove the bearing caps. Make sure to note their orientation top to bottom and left and right. They only need to go back on in the same location that came off in. Also keep your bearings, spacers, and everything else in its proper position.

End of the axle before the shafts were removed.

With the shafts removed.

At this point, remove all of the e-brake hardware(basically a small drum setup behind the disc). Then remove the 4 bolts holding the caliper bracket and dust shield onto the tubes.

I plan on removing the dust shields because I don't want rocks and debris getting caught between it and the rotor. In order to do this, two rivets must be drilled out where it connects to the caliper mounting bracket.

Here is the difference between the 1330(right) companion flange, and the 1310(left) companion flange.

1330 bottom, 1310 top.

Here is what I'm left with right now. I am going to clean everything up with brake parts cleaner and cut off all the brackets tomorrow and start hitting it with the flapper wheel to clean it up. I'll probably clean up the calipers and caliper brackets too and go ahead and hit them with some paint. The next step will be getting everything tacked in place and burned in.

 

[Dave41079]

And for everyone to see...these are some beefy shafts. Here it is compared to a 3/8 ratchet and extension. The shafts also neck up towards the outer end, so they're even larger there.

 

[Dave41079]

I ended up changing my mind on the spring perches and got them from RuffStuff instead. They were only $5 more, and they're a supporting member of . They're also almost 8" long to help with axle wrap. Should be a pretty nice setup.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/d60-88-9-spring-perch-p-253.html

Junkyard 8.8 with 4.10s Traklock, rear discs: $68 and some sweat equity.

Passenger side brakeline, Grand Marquis flange and bolts, 8.25 spring plates, misc brakeline fittings: $15 and more sweat equity.

U-bolts from O'Reilly's(P/N 35664): $46.

Spring Perches from RuffStuff: $39.

Total: $168

 

[mecompco]

you do NOT need nickle rod to weld on the 8.8. you would IF you were welding to CAST IRON, but your not. your welding to CAST STEEL. there is a difference.

Well, I guess I've learned something. We just went with what the welder at the railroad my mechanically inclined buddy works at told us to use. The nickle worked well, it was just expensive.

 

[300$XJ]

Nice write up, I'm gonna be doing this soon! I have to ask though, why did you remove the carrier? was it just to clean up everything inside?

 

[Dave41079]

Nice write up, I'm gonna be doing this soon! I have to ask though, why did you remove the carrier? was it just to clean up everything inside?

Yeah it's pretty messy in there, plus it makes moving the axle by myself a little more manageable without the shafts, carrier, and brake caliper mounting brackets. That, and I wanted to tear it all the way down to check everything out on it too since it did come from a junkyard. Not being in the vehicle it wasn't much work. I had to remove the axle shafts anyways to be able to drill out the rivets on the brake dust shields, and removing the carrier was only 4 more bolts at that point. Not necessary for putting the axle in the Jeep at all. I also figured while I was in there I'd get some good pictures for people wondering how everything went together.

 

[BlueCuda]

An empty 8.8 housing is damn near just as heavy as a complete D35 lol.

 

[XXX]

Re:e 8.8 Build Thread

Well, I guess I've learned something. We just went with what the welder at the railroad my mechanically inclined buddy works at told us to use. The nickle worked well, it was just expensive.

Every Ford oriented website I've read says the 8.8 is cast iron.
Shaved the bottom of my 8.8 and it ground just like cast iron. Drilled for a fitting and it drilled just like cast iron. Until someone gives me concrete proof, I'd say it's cast iron.

Your $$$$$ spent on the NI-99 rods was $$$$$$ well spent.

 

[XXX]

Yeah it's pretty messy in there, plus it makes moving the axle by myself a little more manageable without the shafts, carrier, and brake caliper mounting brackets. That, and I wanted to tear it all the way down to check everything out on it too since it did come from a junkyard. Not being in the vehicle it wasn't much work. I had to remove the axle shafts anyways to be able to drill out the rivets on the brake dust shields, and removing the carrier was only 4 more bolts at that point. Not necessary for putting the axle in the Jeep at all. I also figured while I was in there I'd get some good pictures for people wondering how everything went together.

I suppose your not using the e-brake function as the shields locate the brake shoes?

 

[Dave41079]

Nah, I don't remember the last time I used the e-brake. I could cut the shield back to where it had the e-brake provisions if I wanted to use it though. If I need it, I've got a nice block I can chock the wheels with.

 

[Dave41079]

Got the brackets all cut off and the tubes ground smooth. Now I just need to get my new brackets in and get everything tacked on. I screwed around with the u-bolt plates today trying to elongate the holes, and the dremel just isn't going to get the job done. I may just end up taking them to a machine shop and have them do it. I don't see it costing too much, and I can get them to drill out two more holes for the center pin to match the perches so I can adjust my wheel base.

 

[alex22]

I just made some smaller center pins for my 8.8, Clayton leaves and Ruffstuff's leaf perhces.

~Alex

 

[ricot83]

nice build, I have mine pretty much set like the pics above, just waiting for time to install it. keep up the good work

 

[Dave41079]

Well it's been a while since I've posted any updates on this. It took a while to get the spring perches from Dan at RuffStuff. Not his fault, he was waiting on a supplier to get the parts to him, and he was very helpful. I've been working on it an hour here and there and have made some progress, but I didn't have my camera to take step by step pictures. Here is how it sits now.

The perches and shock mounts are welded on, and the tubes are welded to the housing. I'll probably finish assembly this next week. About the only other real work I have to do on it is the hard brake line. I am probably just going to buy a section of tubing from the parts store and make a new line instead of trying to rebend the Explorer line to re-route around the new perches and things. I painted it with primer and then with Rustoleum metallic charcoal paint. The calipers and diff cover are red. I did end up using the Explorer sway bar mount to make my shock mounts. I cut it in half, and welded each half onto the tubes. Now I'll just put a bolt through and a nut on the other side and the shock will mount. They hang down a bit, but that's alright with me. It's higher than on my 8.25, and I've never hit those on anything. Plus it allows me to keep using my shocks that I already have. Here you can see the modified sway bar mount used as a shock mount.

I won't be installing this until probably August because the last weekend of this month I'm going wheeling in Alabama. If I swapped it in now, I'd be 2wd for a while as the gear ratios are different.

 

[emr1101]

That hole looks like a fill plug. Had one in my ranger. That is a traclok, basically fords posi. And you do know that does have abs right? There is a rone ring in the diff. Otherwise good find.

Is ABS a good thing when searching for an 88? PS - $68 is really cheap!!!!!

 

[mecompco]

Is ABS a good thing when searching for an 88? PS - $68 is really cheap!!!!!

Doesn't matter--you won't be using it anyway.

 

[Dave41079]

Doesn't matter--you won't be using it anyway.

Agreed. Ran the hard brakeline today and bolted up the soft lines. Pretty much all that's left is assembly, but I'm in no hurry as I am not able to install it for awhile unless the axle fairy comes by and puts 4.10's in my D30.

 

[WarnFleXJ]

On this rear end, Not sure if you were going to "re-pack" the clutches in the LSD, but if and when you do I would Highly suggest that you soak the friction disc in XL-3 over night, (its firction modifier). This will eliminate the locker effect (some would refer to as "chatter") when making low speed corners. I used to be a Ford Technician, hit me with some questions, I may be able to help....


:thumbup:2000, 9" Custom Rusty's LA, 35' MTZ's, Warn Front Bumper w/ xi8000, Kevins Jeep Sliders, Custom Rear Bumper w/ Q-panel gaurds Swing open tire carrier, 4.56's, Superior Axle rear kit w/ TruTrac

 

[Dave41079]

Any write ups on re-packing the clutches? Is this something that needs to be done with a rebuild kit, or do you just pull everything out, clean it, then put it all back together? I'll definitely be soaking it in friction modifier anyways because I am cleaning everything off with brake parts cleaner.