flange yoke connecting DS and pinion yoke

[Mr.OverKill]

yeah that sound like it would work because the axle wouldnt be as easy to twist. ill tighten down my u-bolts (but yes i did torque them). so will this move my axle back 2". cause if it does then ill have more room for my flange conversion to work and more clearance cause im gonna chop the bottom rear quarter/rock panels. then maybye ill have lots of room to run 35's

it depends on the location of the hole but yah, if you drill the hole forward of the axle it will push the axle back. good luck and have fun experamenting with it

 

[BrettM]

if you push the axle back without moving the leafs back you create more axle wrap because there is more spring in front of the perch to wrap up.

 

[Mr.OverKill]

if you push the axle back without moving the leafs back you create more axle wrap because there is more spring in front of the perch to wrap up.

fully agreed, the moveing of the axle is a mixed bag of trix, extra wrap vs. longer wheel base. you make the call...

 

[Shomsky462]

i had the same proablem with mine and it is definately axle wrap! extend your spring perches forward 2 or 3 inches, i did mine and i havent broke since. i replaced the stock style perches with 2.5X2.5 1/4 wall tubing notched to confourm to the axle tube and instead of makeing them 4 inches long with the alignment hole centered, i made them 6 inches and put the hole to the rear two inch mark directly over the axle and left an extra 2 inches forward of the axle to work as a lever, works like a charm and i got an extra 1.5 inches of lift out of them too

ooooooohhhhhhh i get it sorry i took me a few reads to get it but i understand now, your not moving the axle anywhere your just creating a kind of lever so the axle desnt have as much power to twist underload. nvm my post about moving the axle back.