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Double Sheer Trackbar..

i used my single sheer RE 1600 track bar with the RE double sheer bracket. put in a new ruff stuff heim (direct replacement), drilled the RE mount out (to match 5/8" misalignment spacers), and have been loving it.

regardless of which mount you run, MOST are 2 5/8" wide to accept a standard JJ/cartridge style joint. i went with the RE bracket as it is only 2" wide, the same size as a misaligment spacer from ruff struff. if you plan to run heims, you will likely have to "space" the heim with washers like someone else posted on here. another option is the wider, 2 5/8" spacer that ruff stuff makes for their heims.

i did exactly that until i changed to my d44. still using the bracket, but i had to make a new track bar to work with the new axle.
worked fine, no issues.

I ran that setup for a long time. I went with the clayton bracket because they offered double shear with no drop and I didn't want to run a Drop pitman.

the only thing I wasn't crazy about is the OEM size bushing at the axle end. those tend to wear quickly and create a lot of problems.

I cut the factory bracket off the axle, built one to accept a 3/4" rod end with 9/16" misalignment spacers and have been happy since
 
IRO makes a double sheer TB/bracket kit. Around 190$. Otherwise like others said clayton or RE bracket.
 
I can agree to this.

You can make any trackbar strong and put a warranty on it.

But of course they can put a warranty on their trackbars and never have one bend or break because they are attatched by the dinky stock sized bolts that will fail long before.

Rock krawler, clayton, or rubicon express hd WITH the 1/2" bolt upgrade.


Very well put, I am just not crazy about running the drop pitman arm that the RK one will require, I'll check out the Clayton.
 
Very well put, I am just not crazy about running the drop pitman arm that the RK one will require, I'll check out the Clayton.

another benefit to the clayton bracket is they use an actual currie JJ as opposed to that rockkrawler or RE cartridge joint junk.
 
Rockkrawler trackbar uses a heim on the frame end, and some ultra hard rubber on the axle end. I'm still running the frame side joint from my old jeep on my new one, coast to coast wheeling and 30k or so miles and it's still tight.
 
What about the iron rock double shear TB setup. I like the poly mount idea. No replacing worn joints. I have heard mixed reviews though. Most seem to love it and others say it ok. I have never heard any bad things about it though.
 
I have the IRO setup and I like it, have yet to wheel hard on it. I found the weak point in my setup first trip out when I mangled the tie rod 3min into wheeling. I drive a decent amount of street miles since it is my beater, and winter DD so I tryed my best to avoid flex and heim joints.
 
What about the iron rock double shear TB setup. I like the poly mount idea. No replacing worn joints. I have heard mixed reviews though. Most seem to love it and others say it ok. I have never heard any bad things about it though.

I try to avoid poly at all costs... I've seen too many mangled brackets

I have the IRO setup and I like it, have yet to wheel hard on it. I found the weak point in my setup first trip out when I mangled the tie rod 3min into wheeling. I drive a decent amount of street miles since it is my beater, and winter DD so I tryed my best to avoid flex and heim joints.

why would you avoid flex joints and heims?
 
Just recently replaced my JKS tracbar with the RE 1660/1665 double sheer setup.
Got mine through Serious Offroad, with the current deals, delivered for $175.
 
i used my single sheer RE 1600 track bar with the RE double sheer bracket. put in a new ruff stuff heim (direct replacement), drilled the RE mount out (to match 5/8" misalignment spacers), and have been loving it.

regardless of which mount you run, MOST are 2 5/8" wide to accept a standard JJ/cartridge style joint. i went with the RE bracket as it is only 2" wide, the same size as a misaligment spacer from ruff struff. if you plan to run heims, you will likely have to "space" the heim with washers like someone else posted on here. another option is the wider, 2 5/8" spacer that ruff stuff makes for their heims.


Got a pic?
 
Got a pic?

how I did mine with the RE1600... same concept Ruffstuff heim, drilled bracket to 5/8". its the wider bracket so I used washers to space the heim. I have the same bracket now and use the wide misalignment spacers and a 7/8" heim now.

IMGP4994.jpg
 
So Yeah I crawled under mine tonight installing LED rock lights and yeah..the Rusty's bar is shot at the jamb nut I guess, it had some slop at it. I was able to pull it down and tighten the piss out of it and re-install. I didn't have any thread locker or I would have probably added that as well, lol. So needless to say it has to go. While we are throwing down pictures..take a look at what apears to be bushing material creeping out of the RK joint on my axle (less than 2 months on the Jeep and one..somewhat hard..wheeling trip). Guess I'll call the guys at RK and see what they say. I have always had good service out of them and their products....

DCE9CCB9-F815-4D6F-8D46-3A7DB713BE43-2584-0000020EFCEFC50A.jpg


No noticeable slack in it at all, although it has been used and abused so far.
 
did you torque it to spec durring install of the rk joint? i know that's fairly critical.
 
So Yeah I crawled under mine tonight installing LED rock lights and yeah..the Rusty's bar is shot at the jamb nut I guess, it had some slop at it. I was able to pull it down and tighten the piss out of it and re-install. I didn't have any thread locker or I would have probably added that as well, lol. So needless to say it has to go. While we are throwing down pictures..take a look at what apears to be bushing material creeping out of the RK joint on my axle (less than 2 months on the Jeep and one..somewhat hard..wheeling trip). Guess I'll call the guys at RK and see what they say. I have always had good service out of them and their products....

DCE9CCB9-F815-4D6F-8D46-3A7DB713BE43-2584-0000020EFCEFC50A.jpg


No noticeable slack in it at all, although it has been used and abused so far.

is that rubber coming out? I have an older version of their dana 30 uca joint and its a uniball with what appears to be delrin, or some other hard plastic.
 
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