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Deployment money XJ - the Blurple

The lean condition is very much a contributor to the cylinder and underhood temps. The header glowed orange while we were setting the cam in.
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Proper tuning should clear it up. Glad to see it dirty!
 
Pictures didn't work for me...hmmm

I have a set of Lumina Z34 hood vents sitting on my workbench if you want to vent the hood. I did that on mine, and the heat that escapes through the vents is visible to the eye when you are standing still.
 
It was good to meet you and wheel with you. That jeep works well. I'm jealous or the stroker and the manual.
 
Pictures didn't work for me...hmmm

I have a set of Lumina Z34 hood vents sitting on my workbench if you want to vent the hood. I did that on mine, and the heat that escapes through the vents is visible to the eye when you are standing still.

Actually, I'm already running those exact same vents. And it'll still run hot enough to make the hood uncomfortable to touch. I really need to get the AFR setup working so I can tell just how badly lean it is. May be time for bigger injectors.

It was good to meet you and wheel with you. That jeep works well. I'm jealous or the stroker and the manual.

Good to meet you too. I'm jealous of the unicorn D60's you have, and the monster meats to go with it. Your jeep is a beast. And surprisingly fuel efficient :looney:.
 
Actually, I'm already running those exact same vents. And it'll still run hot enough to make the hood uncomfortable to touch. I really need to get the AFR setup working so I can tell just how badly lean it is. May be time for bigger injectors.



Good to meet you too. I'm jealous of the unicorn D60's you have, and the monster meats to go with it. Your jeep is a beast. And surprisingly fuel efficient :looney:.

Yea no doubt! I've never actually run this thing that low. I cannot believe I ran URE all day after running AOP all day and it's still not empty! I'm stroker ignorant what is the AFR? Air Fuel Ratio? Do you have an adjustable MAP?
 
Yea no doubt! I've never actually run this thing that low. I cannot believe I ran URE all day after running AOP all day and it's still not empty! I'm stroker ignorant what is the AFR? Air Fuel Ratio? Do you have an adjustable MAP?

its a wideband o2 to monitor the afr to tune the engine
 
its a wideband o2 to monitor the afr to tune the engine

Does it have an adustable MAP? Wouldn't that help?

I don't know how the OBDII will handle it, but my research with the Rocket led me to an AFR and Apexi SAFC (super airflow converter). The SAFC has a .5v output that you tap into the MAP input to the ECM, and then tune your fuel input using 12 points of the powerband with the SAFC, and it automatically changes output for half and full throttle. This is better than an adjustable MAP which adjust the entire powerband with one single value. Read the AFR and adjust accordingly with the SAFC.

IIRC though the ODBII isn't very friendly with this option so do the research. From what I remember the best option with the OBDII is to use a full piggy back computer (AEM?) for Dodge Neons to communicate with Chrysler hardware.

You could geek out and do a Megasquirt, I think I saw an easier solution to the distributor compatibility recently.

The Rocket has a bung ready to go for a wideband o2 i just haven't gotten around to it (with the rest of the to-do list), and it's run surprisingly well by itself.
 
Does it have an adustable MAP? Wouldn't that help?

It does not have an adjustable MAP, and I was thinking of getting one or making one.

Hmm... There may just be one hanging around close by.

Haha can I assume this is me? Well, I might not have to. I finally abandoned my first attempts at an AFR reader (see below). I tried to be fancy and actually wire something into the wiring harness.
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Yes that's duct tape, and no it doesn't read any numbers but 13. I have a digital reader, but it needs a cigarette lighter that functions. Which I don't have. Time to cobble some crap together.
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Yep, more duct tape.
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So I finally got it all together and calibrated, and imagine my surprise to get actual data. Here's at idle, warmed up.
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It's apparently right around the stoichiometric ratio.

This is as lean as I caught it consistently.
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I ran it around on a pretty good test, and even running hard on the gas couldn't throw the system for long. It stayed right around here.
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I'm genuinely puzzled. I thought for sure a bad air-fuel ratio was the reason for the high underhood temperatures. Guess I'll have to hunt for other culprits.

This is all assuming that I got the AFR setup working properly, but apparently it calibrated right - was reading around 20.1 in normal air. If anyone's curious, here's where I had the wideband bung installed.
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At least I can stop worrying about detonation. Probably. Now to figure out cooling off the engine compartment and why my mileage is terrible.
 
It does not have an adjustable MAP, and I was thinking of getting one or making one.







Haha can I assume this is me? Well, I might not have to.


No, the rocket is sitting at Tyler's currently.

With only one ghetto rigged Taurus fan and hood spacers I've never had an issue with the Rocket getting hot. I'm assuming cooling system is all new with the motor swap? What exhaust are you running? Stock exhaust may be too constrictive causing the manifold to heat up like that and raise under hood temps? I'm running 2.5" from the manifold all the way back.

I may be in too much of a diesel mindset right now but exhaust can make a 250 degree difference in EGRs (on a scale that idles at 300-400 and has peaked at 1150) at throttle for my 6.0.
 
What is the specs on the stroker? Shouldnt that AFR be as close to the manifold as possible? I'm sure it's fine where it is though just an observation

OBD2 strokers are a bitch to tune sometimes lol
 
I may be in too much of a diesel mindset right now but exhaust can make a 250 degree difference in EGRs (on a scale that idles at 300-400 and has peaked at 1150) at throttle for my 6.0.


EGTs... Responding on the phone ducks I mean sucks.
 
What is the specs on the stroker? Shouldnt that AFR be as close to the manifold as possible? I'm sure it's fine where it is though just an observation

OBD2 strokers are a bitch to tune sometimes lol

I don't have the specs onhand but I posted them a while back on this thread. You may be right about the sensors. I read somewhere that o2 sensors will give bad readings if they're too close. That, and not much room closer to the manifold without sticking the sensor at a weird angle.

No, the rocket is sitting at Tyler's currently.

With only one ghetto rigged Taurus fan and hood spacers I've never had an issue with the Rocket getting hot. I'm assuming cooling system is all new with the motor swap? What exhaust are you running? Stock exhaust may be too constrictive causing the manifold to heat up like that and raise under hood temps? I'm running 2.5" from the manifold all the way back.

I may be in too much of a diesel mindset right now but exhaust can make a 250 degree difference in EGRs (on a scale that idles at 300-400 and has peaked at 1150) at throttle for my 6.0.

I've got an aFe header and a 2.5" mandrel-bent setup. But I think you may be on to something...theres a rattling noise that could be an exhaust leak. That could probably ratchet the temps up. Wonder if I have a hole in the header somewhere thats hard to see.
 
Took a beach trip with the XJ and the heat problem is getting irritating. Anything over 2000 RPMs sustained in the sand (easy to do in low range) meant the temp gauge started creeping up, and it did not want to come back down quickly. Time to do some work.

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The old manifold gasket didn’t seem to show evidence of failure (ignore the chunk over Cylinder 3, that happened during removal).

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The header is rusty but I don’t see any obvious leaks. It’s possible it leaks where the back three cylinders’ pipes meet up, but it seemed ok.

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I’ve wondered if the header is warped and causing leakage. Reinstalling it, the first and last cylinders’ tubes definitely pull away from the block a little before being torqued down.

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It seems flush when tightened down, though. I don’t think a leak at the block is my problem.

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I think the header flange is my likely culprit. Looks like the shop I used to build the exhaust couldn’t get a good seal and just hoped a bunch of RTV copper would solve the problem. I stuck locknuts on the hardware and globbed on more RTV. Not much else to do without having the exhaust remade. Seems to have helped a little, noise-wise. I'll check on temps after all this rain is done with.
 
Meanwhile I noticed two weird things while I had the manifold off. First, that Cylinder 4 has some blackish deposits on the runner where all the other cylinders are clean.

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Here’s cylinder 1-3, front to back (above).


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Here's Cylinder 4 (above) looking different from the other ones. Hmmm.


Second possible issue, that there’s a thin coat of oil all over the inside of the intake manifold and also the intake runners on the block. That doesn’t seem right. I have been running higher oil pressure than I had on my old 4.0 (now ~50-55 psi under load, 15-20 psi idling) and I wonder if the CCV system isn’t functioning well.

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Oily. I have to laugh at myself, I'm worrying over every little thing with this new engine. First time I've had a new engine to break in. Would these things concern you guys, if it was your jeep?



 
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