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dealing with rust ....need advice

mike harris

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ohio
The uni body is starting to rust and I'm looking for chemicals to get rid of it.I could also use advice on paint,primer,sealers,techniques to de-rust inside frame rails,and anything that has to do with rust removal/rust proofing.Has any one ever tried spraying oil inside frame and underneath?Is it a good idea?What about waxoyl? any experience with this product?Thanks in advance.
 
my xj has survived 16 years so far in rust. Here is the best advise i can give you. don't herucline everything, it prevents rust, but when rust is under it, it'll spread like wildfire before the herculiner chips off and you notice it.


no chemical can stop it. The best and only solution is cut the metal out and replace it. or wire brush the hell outta it with a grinder or something. then go from there with a can of primer and flat black.
 
waxed based undercoatings, when hot get soft, sand and dirt sticks. Pretty much the same with apshalt or bitumin based products.
Have had pretty good luck with resin based undercoatings and pre coatings. Teroson (Henkel/Loctite) makes a product they call undercoating primer, resin with a rust inhibitor, works pretty good.
Primers designed for galvanized applications, say rain gutters, generally adhere well and last. Have heard good things about Hammerite, I usually use good old Rustolium enamel as a top coating, galvanized metal primer or cold galvinizing primer as a base. On sand blasted metal, Rustolium rusty metal primer works as good as anything else and lasts. Rusty metal primer, doesn´t do well when painted over loose rust and dirt.
Getting it clean is often the major problem, coating dirt and dried mud, just makes moisture traps and adds to the problem most times.
An undercoating sprayer and a three foot plastic extension with a rossette (side spraying) tip will reach most everywhere inside a frame.
Have used boiled Linseed oil (resin/varnish) cheap and works well most ways. Maybe mix in your own rust inhibitor.
Spraying dried mud with a bio oil (chain saw, chain oil), often helps seperate the mud from the frame, then a good coating of Simple Green and a high pressure washer, removes most of the rest of the crud.
Most any material sprayed as a mist, is flammable/explosive, from varnish to oil.
 
Inspect your unibody for holes in the floor boards before washing with a pressure washer or hose. If there are holes then you will be spraying water into the cab trapping it under the carpet causing it to rust more inside out. the POR 15 stuff sounds great but will break the bank. A gallon of that stuff costs nearly as much as a Lincoln Weldpack 100 mig welder at Home Depot. I'd opt for the welder in that case. You can put in new sheet metal and then have a welder for projects after. Also if you do wash the under side let it dry thoroughly before coating it. The frame is only spot welded to the body and there are gaps between the spotwelds where water can get trapped between the flange on the frame and the body.
 
Majo said:
my xj has survived 16 years so far in rust. Here is the best advise i can give you. don't herucline everything, it prevents rust, but when rust is under it, it'll spread like wildfire before the herculiner chips off and you notice it.


no chemical can stop it. The best and only solution is cut the metal out and replace it. or wire brush the hell outta it with a grinder or something. then go from there with a can of primer and flat black.

Herump...herump :lecture:
 
I'll add something to 8Mud's comment about Rustolium's rusty metal primer - I suggest that you grind off all the loose rust and pealing paint and then wipe down the metal with acetone before you apply the primer. I have found that the acetone makes a huge differance in how well the primer holds up under abuse.

-Brian

8Mud said:
waxed based undercoatings, when hot get soft, sand and dirt sticks. Pretty much the same with apshalt or bitumin based products.
Have had pretty good luck with resin based undercoatings and pre coatings. Teroson (Henkel/Loctite) makes a product they call undercoating primer, resin with a rust inhibitor, works pretty good.
Primers designed for galvanized applications, say rain gutters, generally adhere well and last. Have heard good things about Hammerite, I usually use good old Rustolium enamel as a top coating, galvanized metal primer or cold galvinizing primer as a base. On sand blasted metal, Rustolium rusty metal primer works as good as anything else and lasts. Rusty metal primer, doesn´t do well when painted over loose rust and dirt.
Getting it clean is often the major problem, coating dirt and dried mud, just makes moisture traps and adds to the problem most times.
An undercoating sprayer and a three foot plastic extension with a rossette (side spraying) tip will reach most everywhere inside a frame.
Have used boiled Linseed oil (resin/varnish) cheap and works well most ways. Maybe mix in your own rust inhibitor.
Spraying dried mud with a bio oil (chain saw, chain oil), often helps seperate the mud from the frame, then a good coating of Simple Green and a high pressure washer, removes most of the rest of the crud.
Most any material sprayed as a mist, is flammable/explosive, from varnish to oil.
 
has anyone ever tried the rust avenger..or something like that?The electronic dohicky that uses the battery to fend off rust,gimmick?what about simple green as a degreaser(as mentioned above)does it leave a residue or can it be primed over as long as it's dry?I also need some oppinions on using naval jelly to remove rust.Should I use epoxy primer,is it worth the money?
 
Last edited:
Stick said:
Herump...herump :lecture:


Want pics? I'd be more than obliged to take pics anywhere on my truck under neath the floor name it.

We get well over 100" of snow a year and roads are covered from October till May with salt and sand.
 
BrianJr said:
I'll add something to 8Mud's comment about Rustolium's rusty metal primer - I suggest that you grind off all the loose rust and pealing paint and then wipe down the metal with acetone before you apply the primer. I have found that the acetone makes a huge differance in how well the primer holds up under abuse.

-Brian
Ditto, grinder, drill driven wire brush and a last wipe down with aceton has worked for me. Have also used touline/aceton mix with success as a final prep.

All Epoxy´s arn´t created equal, some get a bit too hard and brittle. Something else to keep in mind, is mixing types of paint, with different solvent/bases, can cause wrinkling and lifting.
Had one catastrophy with refrigerator epoxy, on a set of rims. Ended up having to sand blast and start over.
 
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