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DD Steering upgrade which one?

I meant the long soda straw that runs to the driver's side knuckle.
I've used the v8 zj tie rod stuff a couple times, but I never bothered with the drag link and it's adjuster, as it appeared to be identical to the xj stuff.


ZJ uses the same ES2079S stamped adjuster sleeve (or did you mean the long hollow TRE?). I've been trying to convince a vendor to make solid metal adjuster sleeve to replace the ES2079S, maybe something will happen. That and the ZJ tie rod would be golden for a DD with light trail use.
 
The ironrockoffroad setup is pretty good.

This is the one I've got; did the 5/8" upgrade. Rock solid now for 4 years. Pretty sure I'll bust something else in the steering long before tie rod or drag link flinch. Seems to be one of the least expensive of the bunch and is completely bolt-on whereas most others seem to require some modification and/or welding.
 
IRO tie rod upgrade is no good, its 1.5" shorter than stock and leaves almost no thread engagement at only 3.5" of lift. using brand new TREs they would barely thread in, the tapping was done poorly- exact part numbers they use and sell for TREs on their site, just not marked up like crazy

their steering system seems very goofy putting the drag link under the knuckle with that bend.

I say go ZJ if no budget and go Currie if budget allows.
 
that iron man looks legit at 38" long.

the iron rock comes in at 35", so you can imagine trying to make up 3" total lost thread engagement and how dangerous to run the IRO tie rod is...
 
Their standard tie rod upgrade is 35" since it keeps the inverted-Y setup; the one included in their package upgrade (with the drag link) is a full 48.5" since it's a full crossover setup. It's plenty safe.
 
I have zero complaints about my IM4x4fab tie rod. They use off the shelf TRE's that any parts store should keep in stock. It will be going in my MJ shortly. When I pulled it I thought the joints seemed sloppy, but they are tight. I work at a parts store so I will buy new and keep the old ones as spares.

ZJ uses the same ES2079S stamped adjuster sleeve (or did you mean the long hollow TRE?). I've been trying to convince a vendor to make solid metal adjuster sleeve to replace the ES2079S, maybe something will happen. That and the ZJ tie rod would be golden for a DD with light trail use.

As far as an adjuster sleeve, I would think the correct ID DOM tube tapped, and matching nuts to lock it in place would work just fine. Or, if you wanted a "better" setup, some weld in threaded bungs. But, I figure lots of people throw away small pieces of tube all the time.
 
I would have suggested IRO's OTK up until yesterday but they switched from Jam Nuts on a solid cold rolled bar tapped and threaded at each end to a split end with the same crappy stamped metal clamps that OEM and Currie use.

I just got mine and I'm super pissed off about their redesign BTW.
 
I would have suggested IRO's OTK up until yesterday but they switched from Jam Nuts on a solid cold rolled bar tapped and threaded at each end to a split end with the same crappy stamped metal clamps that OEM and Currie use.

I just got mine and I'm super pissed off about their redesign BTW.

first of all, this thread is like a year old.


second, the pinch bolt style of OEM and Currie is superior to that of jam nuts. IRO must have just figured that out.
 
because your XJ with IRO steering is a KOH car?

Whatever point you were trying to make there isn't working very well, Rock

When people who like to modify their cars, 4x4s, bikes start getting serious about upping the performance of whatever mundane consumer market whip we settled on we look to the Big Boys for a path our builds will follow. Not like they will ever be elite competition machines but it's what most wrenchers have in mind when they start ripping out stock stuff to do a build. KOH buggies are what I chose as my gold standard to emulate for some it might be Jeepspeed but either way grocery getter technology with clamps vs hardcore 360 threaded ends with jam nuts are two different paths to be sure. If I wanted clamps I'D have just slapped on v8 ZJ stuff like I have on my wife's pristine 98 still on stock axles. For my 93 with trimmed fenders and an 8.8/44hp combo it's a step backwards.

I got lazy and thought I could get some passibly bombproof steering that would eventually swap over to my D44 setup that's still in progress once it was finished without having to relocate my trackbar or change a bunch of other stuff instead of fabbing my own like a big boy.
 
go look at how the links are mounted and where the steering sits on a KOH rig compared to that of your XJ, then you will understand why what we do and what they do are completely different.

a Jam nut setup will never hold as well as a clamp setup, especially as low and exposed as it is on an XJ.

also consider that most desert racers and many rock racers use pinch bolts. those that don't usually end up tack welding the jam nuts.
 
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ask yourself this:

why would IRO change their product to something that takes more time and costs them more the manufacture than a simple Jam nut setup?
 
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