• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Dana 35 swap to Dana 44

red_01_xj said:
sure it does if you fool the system by connecting your rear lines to the front abs lines...walla front abs...i dont know how good it would be for the jeep
Click to expand...

So then you would not want your front locking up, but your backs will every time and on slippery stuff you will spin out. Either you have all ABS, or you don't have ABS. I did not want to get rid of mine and tried not to, but we have driven for decades without. Tons of XJs came from the factory without.
 
RCP Phx said:
Something I didnt see mentioned yet,You have a LP D30.At that lift your going to have major driveline issues in the front.
Click to expand...

He's right, I had to get adjustable upper CAs to get my pinion angle up at 4".
 
Perhaps I miss-read; I have a '98 XJ with a D35 on the front & the Chrysler 8.25 on the rear, and it has ABS. I really dislike the ABS on this vehicle; You can't stop if you have one side on ice and the other side on dry pavement! I'm also researching the installation of ARB selectable lockers & a replacement of the 8.25 to a D35 or D44 rear axel.
 
viperbaron said:
Perhaps I miss-read; I have a '98 XJ with a D35 on the front & the Chrysler 8.25 on the rear, and it has ABS. I really dislike the ABS on this vehicle; You can't stop if you have one side on ice and the other side on dry pavement! I'm also researching the installation of ARB selectable lockers & a replacement of the 8.25 to a D35 or D44 rear axel.
Click to expand...
Well you definately dont have a D35 in front,and if you have ABS then you dont have a 8.25 in the rear!
 
viperbaron said:
Yup, Got 'em both. If I could post pix, I'd show ya. Is that strange?! D35 front, 8.25 rear & ABS.
Click to expand...
Its not strange, its impossible!!!
 
You have a Dana 30 in the front. The same Dana 30 that has been in every Jeep for 20 years. You do not have a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear with ABS. Either you have ABS with a Dana 35 in the rear, or you have a 8.25. If you have both you are the only one on the planet.
 
Last edited:
The only front application of a D35 is a Ford IFS,the only ABS 8.25 prior to the KJ was a 6 bolt Dakota.
Btw:instead of hi-jacking this thread,start your own so everyone can have a laugh!
jeepdiffs2wn.jpg
 
Last edited:
This is troubling. I've had a couple of shops look at my Cherokee while pricing lockers. The vehicle definately has ABS. The rear axel doesn't have the inspection plate (like Dana's), it's the Chrysler 8.25. They tell me it's a Dana 35 front & Chrysler 8.25 rear.
Have I been miss-informed? Good thing I haven't ordered the lockers yet! Guess I'll have to verify the axel types now; myself. Do you have a link to axel ID?
Thanks.
 
viperbaron said:
This is troubling. I've had a couple of shops look at my Cherokee while pricing lockers. The vehicle definately has ABS. The rear axel doesn't have the inspection plate (like Dana's), it's the Chrysler 8.25. They tell me it's a Dana 35 front & Chrysler 8.25 rear.
Have I been miss-informed? Good thing I haven't ordered the lockers yet! Guess I'll have to verify the axel types now; myself. Do you have a link to axel ID?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

First, go to a different shop. Second, read this sticky in FAQ

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101249

and we should probably stop hijacking this guys thread. You're welcome. (really)
 
Powerman said:
He's right, I had to get adjustable upper CAs to get my pinion angle up at 4".
Click to expand...

So even at 4 inches then I would have to get adjustable CA's? One of my friends has the rusty's 4.5 and the other has the 6.5 and they haven't had any issues that I know of? What kind of problems would occur in the front?

If I would go with the RE 5.5 Extreme duty kit what would I all need to buy on top of that to have a "correctly" done lift. Also where is the best place to buy this stuff from?

Also with the ABS, I don't think I would want the front working and the back not, that just sounds like trouble to me. I actually don't care for ABS not having it makes me feel more in control but I figured if my XJ had it I would try and keep it. So to me it is not a biggie ditching the ABS.

Also from what I have read and heard from pretty much everyone is that if you have ABS then you have a D35 in back. I guess stranger things have happened but I would doubt yours has a Chrysler 8.25. Christ, if that is the case maybe I would get lucky and not have the D35! I don't even have my jeep yet so I haven't looked at the rear end in person. I am waiting to have it shipped from NJ to here. Hopefully next week!!

Thanks again everyone for all the help!
 
klennop said:
So even at 4 inches then I would have to get adjustable CA's? One of my friends has the rusty's 4.5 and the other has the 6.5 and they haven't had any issues that I know of? What kind of problems would occur in the front?
Click to expand...
LP D30's are only in the 2000-2001 models!
 
Well at least we got the tires figured out.:looney:

At 6" inches you will want adjustable uppers and lowers. We are talking about keeping your pinion angle in the front correct so you don't have vibes. Just because your friends rigs roll down the road, does not mean there are no issues. Everything you do will change things. The vehicle was designed to operate in it's intended range. Any modification from that point will impact the drivabillity. Everything has consequences. There is no 6" lifted XJ that drives as good as a stocker ON THE ROAD. You can have 8" of lift and get your pinion rotated correctly, but then you will loose your caster. Compromises. It's all about how much money you have, and what you are willing to put up with.

If you are going to spend the money get adjustables. You want to be able to adjust your pinion angle. You want your lowers as long as you can get them and then adjust with uppers. Think of how the axle will arch down in it's travel at full droop. With 6" it will be there all the time. Longer CAs move the axle forward more to compensate for this and get it more in the wheelwell. Moving uppers or lowers will rotate the pinion. Just look at RE's kits. You have choices as to what you want to get. You will want an adjustable track bar too, so you can locate your axle where you want it. At 6", that is where people start looking at long arms, or drop brackets because of these issues. However, plenty of folks run that much lift with standard lifts.
 
RCP Phx said:
It still can be done you just have to approach it a little different.I still run my LP D30 at +6" and 33's.Consider the TNT Y-arm kit!
http://hometown.aol.com/__121b_hq51gQJZjgiSZ8iQH1SXqtosuiyVtSd6
Click to expand...

I noticed that your stock fender flares are off, would you be able to run your 33X12.5's with those still on or would there be a crapload of trimming involved where you are better off taking them off. See I would like to keep the stock flares.

And for the record now I am noticing that lifting this jeep isn't easy at all, at least a 01!! Even after I get the lift figured out, I will still have a shittly rear end (no pun intended)! I wish the company's making these lifts would tell you all this in the descriptions of the lifts. Maybe it is because I am new to lifting a vehicle but man this is killing me!!!
 
Last edited:
Another idea for you is to swap out your Lp dana 30 to a HP. I have a 2000 as well and I swapped in the HP out of a 1996 (had less miles then mine!). My buddy and I put the HP in when we did my lift and it worked out great. I'd look for a D30 out of a 96-99 because you will get the stronger U-joints, no vaccuum disconnect, and possibly less miles then an older one. Its a direct bold in an you can keep the shafts out of your LP for trail spares. The D30 isin't hunted for like a D44 so they are pretty much a dime a dozen and not real pricey.

Hope this helps and welcome.

-Andrew
 
klennop said:
And for the record now I am noticing that lifting this jeep isn't easy at all, at least a 01!! Even after I get the lift figured out, I will still have a shittly rear end (no pun intended)! I wish the company's making these lifts would tell you all this in the descriptions of the lifts. Maybe it is because I am new to lifting a vehicle but man this is killing me!!!
Click to expand...

Yes, it not just a matter of bolting some stuff on. Any idiot can slap some blocks and spacers on. Building a solid rig takes a bit more. I'm not a mechanic, or any expert on cars. I got my XJ to get around Colorado. Didn't know anything about modifying. Everything I have learned I learned on this board. Just take your time, do your homework, ask question. Get involved with your local/regional chapter of NAXJA, and last go wheeling! I love my XJ, and believe it or not, they are very simple and easy to work on.
 
I was just looking over what all comes with Rusty's kit.
• 2 - 6.5" Front Coil Springs
• 2 - 6.5" Rear Spring Packs
• Heavy Duty Adjustable Trac Bar with Frame Mount
• Upper Control Arms
• Lower Control Arms
• Stainless Steel Brake Line Extension Kit
• Front Sway Bar Disconnects JKS
• 4 - Rusty's Hydraulic Shocks
• Complete Instruction

So actually shouldn't the CA's be set up for their kit since they are giving you new ones? It also comes with an adjustable track bar.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

chris420
Dana 50
Replies
7
Views
603
Rockwood
R
B
Dana 30 arb locker question.
Replies
13
Views
247
Bmfinney
B
A
2000 xj Dana 30 truss
2
Replies
29
Views
1K
Anak
Anak
C
Tire and Wheel Selection
Replies
3
Views
84
CBJeeper
C
D
Specific Moab Wheel On XJ
Replies
16
Views
243
DirtySouthXJ
D
Back
Top