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Cut Lower Rear Quarters...(pics and write-up)

I'm glad other have been able to use my writeup. As for those saying it is a bad mod, etc...I haven't had ONE problem resulting form it yet. NO dents, not hits, nothing coming apart. In fact it saved my rear quarter the other day when playing on some rocks. I used regular house type caulking to seal it up. Chris Lasater (cagedxj, the one who this whole thing is REALLY from), used that house filler foam stuff to get out any noise, and stiffen it up a bit. If you don't think it has any positives, don't do it. I will say though I havent had one downside with it yet. Im really likin seeing everyone's version of this, and how it is workin ont heir stuff...keep it comin!
 
It's definately a structural area. XJ's with rusted lower panels or even broken spot welds near the hatch area, usually distort the rear panels around the '4x4' logo. Whether you cage it or even care, your call. :sunshine:
 
Chris S said:
If you are worried about the structure then weld the panels together rather than rivit them, and add a brace to the cross-member.

Personally I'm going to leave about 1.5" more fender.

this seems like a good solution to me
 
In my case I have some rusted lower 1/4 panels... I'll probably do this once my lift/tires warrant it.

I'd rather go mad max and hack up fubar'd panels than bondo... Probably get a bumper that covers the 1/4's later anyway.
 
Ronbo said:
It's definately a structural area. XJ's with rusted lower panels or even broken spot welds near the hatch area, usually distort the rear panels around the '4x4' logo. Whether you cage it or even care, your call. :sunshine:


when I did this mod those pannels were mostly rusted away anyhow, so I didn't loose anything for strength. You guys on the west coast dont know what rust is though. My pinch seams under the doors is half gone to from rust. Have been wheeling it hard for 2.5 yrs and no major problems yet. Heck the rig was wrecked when I bought it and the unibody already tweaked (A pillar pushed upwards making a gap above the drivers door) and it hasn't fallen appart yet :)
 
ChuckD said:
Yup, that's exactly where my dimples are.

Don't sweat it, I have intact quarters and I have dimples :)
 
Jeepin Jason said:
Same here. But I never cut out my lower quarter panels... :bunny:


There's probably crack or broken spot weld in the hatch area.
I've seen it on high mileage rigs that don't touch dirt, it'll happen to all of them over time..
 
actually, I figure it happened when I jumped my rig a few years ago, and it didn't land quite right... ;) of course, that could have also caused a crack or broken spot weld somewhere too...
 
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XJ4Roks said:
any pictures of it during the process?...or was it done the exact same way? how did you get the diamond plate to stick?..silicon?..thanks


Sean

I used long rivets. you could use medium on the sides but underneath I was going through three sheets. I used lots of clear silicone in between the body and aluminum incase of rattles or water deposits. I used one sheet for the side and a folded peice for the bottom, You can see where they meet.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
actually, I figure it happened when I jumped my rig a few years ago, and it didn't land quite right... ;) of course, that could have also caused a crack or broken spot weld somewhere too...




A spot weld? hmmm.
I remember the pics from that jump and the effect it had on your axle.

:moon:
 
Can anyone tell me the common spots for these dimples, or show me some pics? I don't have any dimples around the 4x4 logo, but it looks like the upper corners near the top of the hatch are coming apart and may need rewelded. Do you all think this may cause enough stuctural loss to create dimples?

Also, I have a west coast '92 and it is showing major rust on the passenger flooboard, above the cat and by the firewall liner. We get enough rain that that leak has become a real issue. And then there is the salt in the air, It accumulates on your windshield in only a few hours if you live on the coast.
 
PapaPump said:
Can anyone tell me the common spots for these dimples, or show me some pics? I don't have any dimples around the 4x4 logo, but it looks like the upper corners near the top of the hatch are coming apart and may need rewelded. Do you all think this may cause enough stuctural loss to create dimples?
No I don't think doing this mod will create dimples by the 4x4 logo. I have dimples too on both sides and have not cut the lower quarters... yet. The dimples are caused from the rear of the jeep coming down HARD on a rock and that force is transfered up the rear pillar. By cutting and folding the quarters up, you greatly increase the clearance behind the rear tires so you shouldn't be hitting that area on any rocks nearly as much if at all.
 
OK, so I have done the passanger side and I am waiting to do the drivers side, but I am thinking I am going to have to drop the fuel tank. One one else had to do this? Its so close, Im betting that Im going to have to. BTW, Im welding, not riviting
 
Ihave been with an XJ guy that put a fat dent there on his, so I know it is succeptable to hits. I am curious though about wheter of not this helps with the dimples. The rear bumper is still further out in the departure angle and still very suceptable to hits. Landing on the rear bumper would still transfer a lot of force to the body and structure. This might make sense to me if the bumper were clearenced as well.
 
I am replacing the stock bumper with a simple two tube bumper. The upper tube will go to the edges of the body and the lower tube will end at the rear cross member. It will not be structural as I have a trailer hitch for towing.
 
PapaPump said:
Ihave been with an XJ guy that put a fat dent there on his, so I know it is succeptable to hits. I am curious though about wheter of not this helps with the dimples. The rear bumper is still further out in the departure angle and still very suceptable to hits. Landing on the rear bumper would still transfer a lot of force to the body and structure. This might make sense to me if the bumper were clearenced as well.
It would depend on the strength of the bumper and how it mounts to the Jeep. If it mounts solid to the frame rails then yes I could see the force from a hit still travel up into the body. But I was also wheeling Saturday with a 95 XJ that had a Tomken bumper (I think...) and he came down hard on the passenger corner. No dimples that I saw but the bumper made contact with the fiberglass hatch and cracked it on both sides of the rear window.

I think if you had a stock rear bumper, it would absorb hits pretty well! :laugh3:
 
Just decided to start doing this to my jeep, but would it be any easier to take the bumper off in order to cut? I don't have the plastic caps on the ends, but either way, gettinga 4 1/2" grinder in there seems a bit tough.
 
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