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Cowl Chamber Intake

The Coast Guard study was most likely referring to flex hose that is similar to what you use to vacuum a pool with, but with a larger diameter and larger folds in the material vs. a smooth walled hose. Just using one or two bulged connector like that would only have a small effect on flow.

~Alex

I would go on to say that water has a higher surface tension and more drag than air.

Still - that is a good point (flexible hoses creating drag in intake / exhaust) and I'll bet even in air, you'd see measurable losses by going all flex hose.
Not to mention, the OP's intake tube looks badass. Flex hose just looks like ass.

Good job, dude.
 
Got the hump coupler in a couple days ago. Flexes very well with the leverage of the pipe on it. Wasn't so sure pullin on it in my hands. I looked through that site at some of their turbo stuff and I can't beleive how cheap it is. $50 for a BOV or an intercooler. Now I just need a car to turbo. Though the coupler is nice and cheap and should avoid the rippin and the tearin.
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those are all ebay-grade or bellow knock-off BOV's, I wouldnt run those on a turbocharged concrete saw....
makes me wonder about the quality of their silicone hoses....
 
The cross over is a sweet simple idea that I will use this summer when I go to duel batts this summer. I'm getting a wnch for my Bday :)
 
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Where did you get and what exactly are the plugs in the valve cover ?

Thank you for noticing. I have one pcv in the rear (factory)
The other 2 I made from scratch on my harbor freight lathe/mill combo

I made the front one when I got the jeep which is just tapered to hammer in. It's nylon which I made from a weed whacker wheel.
The oil fill port I made to replace the stock cap/plug which I couldn't get to seal to save my life. (It's amazing how oil can work it's way out the tightest areas) I made that from a slab of cutting board material (polyethylene or something) then drilled and tapped the center for a 3/4 pipe plug and milled 2 slots for cap screws which I had to drill and tap the top of the valve cover. And to seal I cut out a silicone gasket. So far it's working but looks like a tiny bit of oil has started to work it's way through the area 90* of the screws on each side where the gasket isn't as pressed as the screw sides. (couldn't beleive it)
I actually made it a press fit first with RTV which leaked just as bad amazingly.

And no I will not be making them to sell, they were extremely hard and frustrating to make.
 
Can you give us some detail on the throttle body adapter?

The part that mates to the top of the TB? If so I just welded the tube to the plate I cut out and traced from the factory one (with a smaller hole) and then cut out my notch for the air idle bypass pain in the ass then welded a piece of angle iron then die grinded out the inside real nice.
I wish it was like the HO throttle bodies where I could have just put a 2nd coupler there and been done. I'm boring this one to 60mm also.
 
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