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Coolant in oil but the Head Gasket looks good

R

RadioShackSpecial

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
'96 4.0 w/ AW4

So long story short, changed the oil last weekend and it was half coolant.

Thinking it may be the head gasket I went ahead and took the head off. The head gasket that was on there looked fine. :dunno:

Im taking the head into the shop on Monday to have them check it. Was wondering if there is anything else I need to look into? Cracked block? How else could the coolant get into the oil pan? :confused:
 
I would certainly have the head and block tested
 
Head goes in on Monday. It looks ok but I dont have Superman x-ray vision to see any hair line cracks.

Im assuming I would have to pull the engine to have it checked?

Side note: I flushed the coolant last month and its already brown, looks like oil more then trans fluid. I will get some pictures up tomorrow.

Might be time to source a used motor.
 
I just finished up replacing the head on mine. Mine was an 0331 head that had cracked, not sure if that's the case w/ yours, but there's also the chance that the head may be warped from overheating? My gasket was technically good when I took it off, too, but was starting to corrode in some of the parts where the gasket covers the open areas of the water jacket on the block.

I think I mentioned in another thread where you posted, but you might want to consider doing the valve job while the head is in the shop if they say it's in good shape.

Also, I had the same issue with the coolant being thick and brown. I'd change all the hoses if they have any buildup, flush the radiator really well, and try to flush all you can out of the block when you get the engine back together.
 
Your head could be warped and it won't be making a tight seal with the gasket and block or it might be cracked. I thought I had a blown head gasket took my head off everything looked fine and the gasket looked perfect.. I took my head in and it was severely warped. So that caused the oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil.. I had the head reserfaced and it got rid of that problem.
 
Thanks everyone. The perfect head gasket just caught me off guard, I was expecting to see an obvious leak. The warped head is a possibility, when I first got this Cherokee the fan clutch and radiator were toast.

I got the radiator flushed out for now. Once I get the head back on I will flush the block and heater core.

Can I pull the lifters out the top now? I would like to replace those sense I have it all apart. I think I need a special tool?
 
Yes, the FSM calls for a special tool to get them out. I didn't do them while I had the head off, so I can't offer any more info about where/how to get the tool. Who knows, it may be one you could borrow at Kragen/Autozone.

Have you listened as you squeeze your hoses? Mine were "crunchy" inside because there was so much of that brown stuff in them. If yours are like that, that stuff could fall off and into your nice clean cooling system if you don't change them.
 
I will check them out. The coolant that drained out of the block and radiator did not have any sediment in it. I flushed the system last summer when doing a tune up so its fairly new. The coolant was tainted brown from what appears to be engine oil. In turn the oil has a green hue, coolant. The beast runs warm but never over heats, thats what lead me down this road. Im hoping, vs. crack in the block, that my issue now lies in the head and the shop will fix that for me.

01_XJ, you have been great help. Thank you!
 
Good luck. If for some reason your head is bad, I got mine from Odessa. They sell through ebay, and it was quite a bit cheaper than the head from Alabama Cylinder Head. 2 yr unlimited mileage warranty too.
 
01_XJ said:
Yes, the FSM calls for a special tool to get them out. I didn't do them while I had the head off, so I can't offer any more info about where/how to get the tool. Who knows, it may be one you could borrow at Kragen/Autozone.

Have you listened as you squeeze your hoses? Mine were "crunchy" inside because there was so much of that brown stuff in them. If yours are like that, that stuff could fall off and into your nice clean cooling system if you don't change them.
Click to expand...

The special tool looks like this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/hydraulic-valve-lifter-remover/p2017900.jcwx. Thats a nicer one with a little slide hammer. The cheap ones look like a pickle-picker-upper with the jaws pointing out to catch the inside lip of the lifters.
 
Took the head into the shop first thing today. I was quoted $200 for the work with two or three day turn around. Seems pretty fair to me? Work being check for cracks and if thats a pass resurface and valve job.

Cleaned the intake runners with some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. I sanded the outside a bit and plan to either paint or powder coat the intake mani before I put it all back together. Would engine enamel work best for this vs. hi temp spray paint?
 
RadioShackSpecial said:
Took the head into the shop first thing today. I was quoted $200 for the work with two or three day turn around. Seems pretty fair to me? Work being check for cracks and if thats a pass resurface and valve job.

Cleaned the intake runners with some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. I sanded the outside a bit and plan to either paint or powder coat the intake mani before I put it all back together. Would engine enamel work best for this vs. hi temp spray paint?
Click to expand...
$200 seems reasonable to me. While I had mine out, I cleaned the throttle body and inside of the intake runners real well. The throttle body in mine was bad, real bad, and took a bit of work to get nice and clean.
 
well when i had mine tested it was $40 to pressure test and resurface at an auto machine shop.. i didnt have the valves done and im not sure how much a normal valve job even goes for..
 
While talking about heads and valve jobs, the key is: What are they going to do?

1.) Check flatness of head.
2.) Check valve guide clearance.
3.) Resurface head if out of spec.
4.) Machine for guides and install if clearance is out of spec.
5.) 3 angle valve grind
6.) New valve seals

Extra to make it better:
1.) CC combustion chamber volume. Head will probably be machined more off at the ends. This will possibly lead to pre-ignition knock.
2.) Measure down from the deck surface to some other feature, like the combustion button in the chamber, so that you KNOW how much stock they machine off. Some forum members have reported screwed up head deck milling where they took way too much off.
 
They are going to do your 1 through 6 list as well has check for cracks.

I did not measure anything on the head, the thought never crossed my mind.

I do have another question. The valves and spark plugs were more white then brown or caked with carbon. Is that a tell-tell of running hot/lean? Once I get it all back together I will check the plugs after a few hundred miles. Might of had a valve leak or intake mani leak. There was a slight miss fire before I took the head off, which I contributed to the head gasket leak. Will have to see if the rebuilt head clears this up for me.
 
Last edited:
Bone white may be indicative of lean condition or STEAM cleaning.
 
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