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Coolant filter

U

Unclewolverine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kansas
Do the big parts chains typically keep those inline coolant filters in stock? I need to switch the flow on my heater core again but I dont want to clog my new radiator with the scale that's going to come out. I see where I can order them online, but it's going to get negative Temps again before in would come in!
 
It might be quicker to just call the parts stores than wait for a response here. Sorry I cant help further.
 
Probably, but most likely i get the idiot that can't find something without typing in the make and model and then calling a manager over to point it out for them. You should see me trying to get rhd parts. I had to walk out once.

Has anybody tried one? They are a lot more pricey online than I thought they would be for what they are. Basically an overgrown fuel strainer and they want 75 to 80
 
I purchased a WIX filter base #24019 and a WIX filter #4070.Both from NAPA .Several years ago......have not installed yet.:cool:
 
Unclewolverine said:
Do the big parts chains typically keep those inline coolant filters in stock? I need to switch the flow on my heater core again but I dont want to clog my new radiator with the scale that's going to come out. I see where I can order them online, but it's going to get negative Temps again before in would come in!
Click to expand...

Don't know why you would do this but why not flush the heater core separately!
 
This was covered in a thread a year ago, but the tldr is I have flushed and clr'ed the core several times but could never get heat out of it so I pulled and old trick out of the book, reveresed the flow and viola- decent heat. A side affect was crud that eventually came out probably partially clogged the radiator. I've recently put in a new radiator but my heat is getting pretty poor again so I need to put the flow back, but I don't want to clog the new radiator. Yes I already cover the front. No I don't have time to put a new core in it, I work 6 days a week and rhd cores are hard to find anyway.
 
Was surprised when I learned that there was such a thing as a RHD heater core (& still no idea how/why they're different) but if/when time comes they're out there on FleaBayUK (& expensive - imho) &, generally, our suppliers are better at worldwide shipping than yours (though that wouldn't e cheap either)
 
There is probably no logical reason why its different. The radiators are different too and I know there is literally no reason for that because I run a lhd radiator and lhd electric fan. A rhd specific fan is was $300(!) last time I checked.
 
If you flushed it backwards than what's the point?
 
There is some breakdown in communication here, im ASD so it's probably on my end somewhere. The journey to get to this point was covered in my post last year. The core has been individually flushed backwards and forwards multiple times, the entire cooling system has been extensive cleaned twice in 2.5 years. The way I got the heat to finally work was to switch the heater hoses so the coolant went through the core the opposite way of normal. As the flow was never impeded at any point my theory was that there is scale coating the inside of the tubes prohibiting heat transfer. Running the coolant the other way broke enough of the scale loose (that wasn't coming out any other way) to get me functional heat. It's been a year and anytime it gets below 20 I once again don't have enough heat coming out of the vents to stay comfortable with the window going up and down 200+ times a day. Any fan setting above 2 blows cool, 1 and 2 are Luke warm. I am just asking if anyone know where I can get filter without having to order one.
 
Sorry you had to explain it all again, it all seemed perfectly clear to me, perhaps it's the lateral thinking that confused folk, but I didn't even know there was such a thing as a coolant filter, which is why I kept out of it - 'til curiosity got the better of me.

If the problem is scale, then vinegar should do the trick, so suggest when the weather improves disconnect & by-pass heater. Fill it with vinegar (or, at least, a very strong solution) cap it off, leave it for a week, drain it & see what comes out; then you'll know if it's working & whether you need to do the same for longer &/or something stronger (like ally wheels cleaner or rust treatment, i.e. phosphoric acid).

Only when the liquid comes out milky or with bits in it, do you drain & flush a couple of times before re-connecting it.
 
Unclewolverine said:
There is probably no logical reason why its different. The radiators are different too and I know there is literally no reason for that because I run a lhd radiator and lhd electric fan. A rhd specific fan is was $300(!) last time I checked.
Click to expand...

I knew about the different rads, which make even less sense because the LHD one has the trans. cooler connections (which appears to be the only difference) on the wrong side. The fans are also transposed - why?

The RHD e-fan should be cheaper because the shroud is simpler, so I guess you're being asked to pay for rarity value.

Next time you need RHD specific parts, check out eBay.uk; shipping might be a deal breaker - but you never know.
 
why not flush the heater core backwards or forwards with the exit stream dumping into a bucket? no chance of debries being sent into the radiator. simply remove the heater hoses from engine, and force water thru, and let it dump out?

easy peasy.

seems to me if you have so much crap in the system that heater clogs, an inline filter will also clog fast.

how about a prestone flush and fill kit installation? you can also use a descaling acid.

eventually, you may find the repair will be a new heater core

also be sure that the source of the crap in there is not from old coolant causing extensive corrosion as the corrosion inhibiting chemicals do become depleted with use
 
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