Clayton Offroad XJ 8" Coil Conversion Long Arm Lift

[1-tonxj]

1ton. Your argument on that spring creek obsitcal is weak. The line is all it takes there, I have been through there with a foot of snow!

Low is good.

You've never done that line much less in a foot of snow ...Claims are WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICS Jr. LOL ...and the truggy on 37's I posted hmmmm... I guess it's easier in a foot of snow ?...lol

 

[1-tonxj]

Interesting discussion guys, thanks for the input!

I'm planning on running either a 44/8.8 or dana 60s if I can find any.

35-37 keep the d-30 truss it carry spare shafts and 8.8 the rear ...I'd keep the leafs add a good shackle angle correction box and do a good bolt on front long arm kit . arb the 30 and detroit or arb the 8.8 ...the arb is nice in the 30 b/c you can turn it off so it's easier on it and if you bust a shaft when locked it will not unload like a detroit can destroying the carrier ...This can be done at 5-6 lift no problems and with the good shyt like skid plates/sliders you will be plenty capable .

This TJ is running a d30 front on 37-iroks pretty much stock just chromo stubs and stock inner shafts ,And trust me it gets used.

http://static.photobucket.com/player.../VIDEO0007.mp4

 

[ktm racer 419]

I see Jeeps who take the LCOG thing overboard and play turtle every trip out ...you can take it 2 far in either direction ,and there's more to stability than lift height alone . It also needs to be understood that not all offroading favors super low minimum lift ,and even many trails in Colorado don't and they're certainly are not mud .

i see tall rigs struggle because they have trouble with the front tires not finding traction and getting airborne in situations the low rigs excel at. its also a confidence thing out this way. slippery, rocky climbs often require speed, hitting a rock the wrong way can send you into some sketchy situations. ive seen enough rigs go end over end, get kicked sideways and flop down the hill to know i dont want that to be me. also, i have also been to colorado and many places out west and had no complaints with how my rig was setup.

 

[1-tonxj]

i see tall rigs struggle because they have trouble with the front tires not finding traction and getting airborne in situations the low rigs excel at. its also a confidence thing out this way. slippery, rocky climbs often require speed, hitting a rock the wrong way can send you into some sketchy situations. ive seen enough rigs go end over end, get kicked sideways and flop down the hill to know i dont want that to be me. also, i have also been to colorado and many places out west and had no complaints with how my rig was setup.

Oh no doubt you can be 2 tall I may even drop my XJ after I test it on harder trails next season ,as this current set up has seen little action this year ,but it seems to get traction on steep climbs with the extra wheelbase and between the added WB, heavy unsprung weight ,And 90 inch wheel track and generous wheel travel it seems less tippy than the smaller XJ'S with more stockish propotions...But obviously if it was 2-4 inches lower it would be even more stable...oh well I'm doing a full exo ,so I will just learn by flop testing it .

 

[kpowning]

I just purchased the kit this year from Clayton Offroad and its a great product. I dont care for the square tubing they use for their 4 link rear, however TOP NOTCH... Worth every penny. But, make sure you know what you are doing because their kit requires alot of welding, cutting, etc.

I run 89 xj, dana 60 HP Front, Dana 70 rear (welded), 38" tires as of now. It flexes great, however we made spring retainers for the rear so the coils have to stretch and their not loose when flexed. I would highly recommend this.

 

[1-tonxj]

I just purchased the kit this year from Clayton Offroad and its a great product. I dont care for the square tubing they use for their 4 link rear, however TOP NOTCH... Worth every penny. But, make sure you know what you are doing because their kit requires alot of welding, cutting, etc.

I run 89 xj, dana 60 HP Front, Dana 70 rear (welded), 38" tires as of now. It flexes great, however we made spring retainers for the rear so the coils have to stretch and their not loose when flexed. I would highly recommend this.

I extended the posts and trappped them at bottom...but I will be doing just what you suggested as it helps when reloading so the coil does not have a huge gap leaving all compression absorbing duty to the shock .

 

[ScienceguyXJ]

Good point... Clayton's 8" coil conversion kit costs the same as the 6.5" kit. Get the 8" and if it's too tall I can always bring it down some.

I see Jeeps who take the LCOG thing overboard and play turtle every trip out ...you can take it 2 far in either direction ,and there's more to stability than lift height alone . It also needs to be understood that not all offroading favors super low minimum lift ,and even many trails in Colorado don't and they're certainly are not mud .

I would say to the O.P. , go 8.0 you can always bring it lower if it don't work for your trails/wheeling style .

 

[1-tonxj]

Good point... Clayton's 8" coil conversion kit costs the same as the 6.5" kit. Get the 8" and if it's too tall I can always bring it down some.

Yep only difference is one comes with 6.5 coil the other 8.0 ... I think you'll find if you run 35-37 and run a generous back spacing on a rim to give good track width and run the wheelbase 104-108 , ...you will like 8.0 .

 

[time2getdirty]

You've never done that line much less in a foot of snow ...Claims are WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICS Jr. LOL ...and the truggy on 37's I posted hmmmm... I guess it's easier in a foot of snow ?...lol

That truggy you posted didnt do the line you did. to do the line you did, you need tires bigger than a 37. I have never seen anyone succesfully do that line in person (the line of driving your driverside up that huge rock clossest to the tree).

I have been through that trail many times, and am actually thinking about going wednesday or thursday.
Here is a pic from the snow trip. just to the driver side of my jeep is the big rock.

I will say it again, as math& physics proves, lower is better.

 

[1-tonxj]

That truggy you posted didnt do the line you did. to do the line you did, you need tires bigger than a 37. I have never seen anyone succesfully do that line in person (the line of driving your driverside up that huge rock clossest to the tree).

I have been through that trail many times, and am actually thinking about going wednesday or thursday.
Here is a pic from the snow trip. just to the driver side of my jeep is the big rock.

I will say it again, as math& physics proves, lower is better.

Oh your Jeep is capable for sure , But there are other factors to stability than simply X-lift height vs X lift height ...stability is effected by factors such as track width /Wheel base/ unsprung weight (I got "tons of it") and the suspension ...you could have an XJ at 4.5 lift on 35's running stock WB and narrow track and a d30/8.25 combo on 35's resulting in low unsprung weight ,And it will flop b4 a taller rig like mine due to the factors I listed...now certainly my rig dropped 2-4 inches will improve my stabilty ,but I have your stability + some at current lift height and way more Central "frame" clearace...you can't complete an obstacle if you're hi-centered on it ...remember that s-10 at Crawloween ?

 

[NDMstang65]

That's why you use plastic as skids instead of steel..3/4" cutting board material..you slide right off of anything

I'm only an inch lower than the buggy on the skids..with no lift...and I get to where I want to go without issues.

 

[ProJeep]

ive tried all sorts of heights with my setup and theres a pretty significant difference. taller= more weight transfer. gets the frontend light on hillclimbs. my front end leaves the ground enough as it is. and of course theres the off camber argument. its not rocket science to understand that having as stable of a rig as possible is a benefit offroad

well obviously a rig lifted 6.5in lifted on 35s would be more stable than a vehicle lifted with 11in on 35s becaus thats a signifigant difference, BUT the difference of lift for this particular thread is 1.5in, if your front end is gonna leave the ground out 8in chances are 1.5in isnt gonna make a huge change. its more throttle control and driver exp.

 

[time2getdirty]

I agree 1 ton that with your huge amount of clearance you are more capablle than I am. A rig setup with axles and tires ike yours, but lowered a couple inches with UMHW skidplates would do just as good if not beter. I will say your rig suprised me on the s10 crush because it was so stable. Width and weight of an axle is an excelent point! but for an all around rig it might not be desirable to have your tires way outthere and to have axles weighing you down... Wanna race? hahahah!

 

[RCman]

Anything more than 6.5" on any size tire is not needed.
Anything much more than (and really at) a 35" tire should be trimming to get clearance, not putting the roof closer to the sun.
Out of the half dozen rigs I wheel with normally that are on 37s, 39.5s and 40s with 3/4 or 1 tons not one of us is more than 5.5-6" of lift.

Now, if you're into mud bogging, that's different but I don't think that is the discussion here.

 

[1-tonxj]

Anything more than 6.5" on any size tire is not needed.
Anything much more than (and really at) a 35" tire should be trimming to get clearance, not putting the roof closer to the sun.
Out of the half dozen rigs I wheel with normally that are on 37s, 39.5s and 40s with 3/4 or 1 tons not one of us is more than 5.5-6" of lift.

Now, if you're into mud bogging, that's different but I don't think that is the discussion here.

half dozen is only 6 ...not exactly a ton of rigs , But I noticed a funny trend of stating less lift than a rig really has these days and when my rig is parked next to them...lol...they don't seem as low as claimed after putting the tape to frame rail of said LCOG XJ...lol...

 

[RCman]

half dozen is only 6 ...not exactly a ton of rigs , But I noticed a funny trend of stating less lift than a rig really has these days and when my rig is parked next to them...lol...they don't seem as low as claimed after putting the tape to frame rail of said LCOG XJ...lol...

You taking into account the tires buy measuring that way. Tires are not part of "lift height".
Really the only way to do it would be from the center line of the axle (to account for mount changes and like) to a known unchanged part on the unirail (if such part even exists on said vehicle).

A number is just that, a number. Like you said, there are many factors arguing over 0.5" is pointless, but 5.5"-6.5" lift from a 10"-13" is a huge difference.

 

[1-tonxj]

I agree 1 ton that with your huge amount of clearance you are more capablle than I am. A rig setup with axles and tires ike yours, but lowered a couple inches with UMHW skidplates would do just as good if not beter. I will say your rig suprised me on the s10 crush because it was so stable. Width and weight of an axle is an excelent point! but for an all around rig it might not be desirable to have your tires way outthere and to have axles weighing you down... Wanna race? hahahah!

It's slow on highway ...But I'd think you would be surprised at its higher speed handling ...a race offroad may not bring the result you think.

 

[RockMonkey]

The Clayton kit linked earlier cost well over $3000, and you still have to have significant fabrication skills to install it, or pay a shop another $3000 to install it. It seems to me anyone with the know-how should be skipping the kit and building their own suspension with coilovers for less money. Anyone without the know-how can pay a shop less than 6k to do the same.

 

[1-tonxj]

You taking into account the tires buy measuring that way. Tires are not part of "lift height".
Really the only way to do it would be from the center line of the axle (to account for mount changes and like) to a known unchanged part on the unirail (if such part even exists on said vehicle).

A number is just that, a number. Like you said, there are many factors arguing over 0.5" is pointless, but 5.5"-6.5" lift from a 10"-13" is a huge difference.

I measure from unirail-ground and find many XJ with climed lift heights of 5-6 turn out 8-10 ...My first clue is looking at front fenderwell and spotting a 40-tire and shock capable of about 5 or more inches of use-able up stroke .

 

[1-tonxj]

The Clayton kit linked earlier cost well over $3000, and you still have to have significant fabrication skills to install it, or pay a shop another $3000 to install it. It seems to me anyone with the know-how should be skipping the kit and building their own suspension with coilovers for less money. Anyone without the know-how can pay a shop less than 6k to do the same.

I don't know...know-how and time don't always go hand in hand , So I bought/paid a shop to do it while I was at work ...But that 3k is shipped and all inclusive everything you need...It's really not that expensive ...It gets spendy at the shop on install I never had shop do work b4...lol...But between the Claytons install and some steering ...7k at the shop 3k on lift parts ... Needless to say I'll be making time for the cage work...lol