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Cherokee DoubleCardan-Rezeppa (Double CV shaft) ???

i should know... but i can't remember. i know the bigger dana's are. (44, and 60) but i could have sworn the 30 had a crush sleeve.

but anyway, the end of this driveshaft will bolt up to the 30 yoke? if so, that's kinda cool. i don't see that working though, because the 30 yoke has threaded holes whereas double cardan's usually have threads in them...
 
i thought the dana 30 was a shim type yoke not crush sleeve

A few of the D30s were shim type, but for the majority they are crush sleeve.



Oh I didnt realize they were that much money. the way people talk about them they seemed like a cheep simple part.

The warn kit is about $1,200. Add a couple hundred to that and you can have a nice D44 up front. They have an added bonus of coming with locks outs.

I will say lockouts are great, I had a vibe in my front shaft when I was on the highway during a snow storm. After it cleared up I just unlocked and it drove smooth as before.
 
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[hijack] which ones were which? i should know this.[/hijack]
 
[hijack] which ones were which? i should know this.[/hijack]


mine is a 97 and when I put new pinion bearings in it last weekend it had shims not a crush sleeve... if that helps. ill have to check my differentials book
 
My 96 has shims, a friend who has an 89 is also shims. I was under the impression all d30's were shims.

D30 Shims
D35 Crush
8.25 Crush

On-Topic:

The max operating angle on a U-Joint is around 5-6 degrees, and yes, YJs come with a single cardan drive shaft, and a high pinion D30 up front. At 4" the DS on my YJ is no where near the limit of the U-Joints.

You could do this to see if a single cardan solution will work for you:
Remove your front shaft and put the XJ up on the frame up front and let the front droop. With the axle drooped, take a straight edge and put it between the axle yoke and the TC yoke. Measure the angle at the TC to Straight edge. If it exceeds 5-6 degrees, you probably need to find another solution or you may bust a u-joint while drooped.

Remember what works on a single cardan shaft is equal and opposite. If at normal operating height, you can get an equal and opposite solution on the u-join angles, you should have no vibrations.
 
TJ's and 2000-01 XJ's D30's use crush sleeves.
 
D30 Shims
D35 Crush
8.25 Crush

On-Topic:

The max operating angle on a U-Joint is around 5-6 degrees, and yes, YJs come with a single cardan drive shaft, and a high pinion D30 up front. At 4" the DS on my YJ is no where near the limit of the U-Joints.

You could do this to see if a single cardan solution will work for you:
Remove your front shaft and put the XJ up on the frame up front and let the front droop. With the axle drooped, take a straight edge and put it between the axle yoke and the TC yoke. Measure the angle at the TC to Straight edge. If it exceeds 5-6 degrees, you probably need to find another solution or you may bust a u-joint while drooped.

Remember what works on a single cardan shaft is equal and opposite. If at normal operating height, you can get an equal and opposite solution on the u-join angles, you should have no vibrations.


I ran 14 degrees os ankle at my transfercase and rear diff with no problem. at full droop it was 25 degees. The u-joints were still good 50k later and I beat the $hit out of it.

15 degrees is max operating angle 30 degrees is max short term angle.

Before you go with a standard driveshaft in the front remember the front output points up about 3 degrees so your pinon would need to point down 3.5 degrees to get the correct angles.

Just rotate the C's and be done woth it.

I'm building a '77 HP D44 for the front with Superior shafts and CTM's. The main reasons I want tne D44 is ring gear size, bigger brake rotors and calipers, a stronger housing and because it only cost $100.00 for the complete axle. The rear is getting a $50.00 9" axle.

Lets see which one will stop faster in a panic stop... a D30 or a D44??? Hands down the 44 will win all day long.
 
I duno, that 5-6 degree number I remember from years back.

I found this on "The Ranger Station", and it has a nice RPM to angle chart along with some other interesting information.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm

I have only worked on High Pinion units, so I guess that is what the 2000 FSM calls a "181 FBI", and that uses spacers.

The "186 FBI" talks about a crush collar when doing preload setup, and that appears to be a Low Pinion unit.

So, does this make sense: D30HP=Spacers, D30LP=Crush ?
 
So how much can the C's be rotated before you have to worry about the springs bowing out? I guess i'm just not sure how many degrees people usually rotate them.

Rotating them 3-5 degrees is about correct. You'll have to take your own measurements.

The spring mount needs to get tipped back the same amount also. Just cut a slit down both side and tip it back. Weld some steel in to fill the gap and add a plate on the sides to reinforce the mounts.
 
So is it possible to drill/grind out the spot welds on the third member and rotate it? I was looking at mine the other day and it seems like this might be easier than rotating the knuckles and you wouldn't have to worry about the spring buckets and shock mounts being level.

Am I missing something as to why no one does this to get a better pinion angle?
 
So is it possible to drill/grind out the spot welds on the third member and rotate it? I was looking at mine the other day and it seems like this might be easier than rotating the knuckles and you wouldn't have to worry about the spring buckets and shock mounts being level.

Am I missing something as to why no one does this to get a better pinion angle?


Good question.
 
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