Check my Steering Geometry?

[RyanM]

Hubs with 250K, need replacing(Or Checking) ASAP IMHO!

 

[StylerG]

thanks for your continued help Cal, any recommendations on parts other than the JCR stuff?

 

[cal]

Sure, I have lots of recomendations. What do you plan to do with the jeep in the next three years, and how much do you want to spend? There are a ton of options from cheap to do-people-really-buy-this?! ..

 

[StylerG]

well, its not my DD! My work schedule has allowed me to go wheeling once this past year. I just moved and am making two house payments...needing to get this jeep all done up before i move it from missouri where it currently sets to oklahoma where i do not have a garage that is big enough to really work in....does that scream cheap???
Im also of the nature that low-quality parts are not in my radar (is there a balance somewhere?)

 

[cal]

Well, for the most part you're stuck at that point where new stock steering is about $200. New ZJ steering is about $200. New 1-ton steering is about $230.

If you want to be cheap to get it home for now, find a local wrecking yard and grab steering off of a late model V8 ZJ and bolt it on. Its a little beefier but not a lot, won't do anything for improved longevity at higher steering angles, and still used parts - but you can do it pretty cheap and run it for now.

OEM style steering (XJ, ZJ,) uses a draglink where one of the ends is built into the draglink, so as it wears out you have to pay through the nose for a whole new draglink. That makes long term upkeep expensive.

Currie steering is an emulation of the OEM, but you have to buy ends from Currie - which isn't much better.

Inverted T 1-ton (JCR, PartsMike, etc) uses 1.25x.250" DOM tube with OEM chevy ends you can buy at any parts store for $30 with a life time warrantee. Buy the kit once, and as long as you don't bend it you can get replacement ends anywhere for cheap and then warrantee them out later. Long term its the cheapest and strongest setup at your level.

This is what I suggest for you long term.

I have a lot of 'better' options, but then you're talking about doing work in your warm garage and spending a paycheck or more..

-C

 

[old_man]

Your steering geometry is off some. The draglink is on a steeper angle then the trackbar. A ZJ pitman arm would correct this.I

I think you are seeing an optical illusion. Don't look at the bar, look at the mounting points. It looks pretty good.

 

[RyanM]

WJ, OTK 1TONS JKS brkt, DONE

 

[TNT]

I think you are seeing an optical illusion. Don't look at the bar, look at the mounting points. It looks pretty good.

This was already discussed 7 hours ago in post number's 11-15....:gee:

 

[Root Moose]

WJ, OTK 1TONS JKS brkt, DONE

That's what i'd do. Better geometry and brakes all in one go.

 

[XJSpencer]

I suggest you get under the front end and have someone work the steering back and forth. Watch every joint on the front-end. Spend some time doing it. Look for even the slightest movement. Replace anything that moves. It could just be a loose connection on the TB at the axle. Lift up each side and check your Ball Joints. Are they 200k old too? Your unit bearings can cause wierd problems also. Throwing money at it isn't always a fix as I'm sure you found out when you did the trackbar and mount. I've tried the "replace what I think is bad" method way too much. It's expensive!

If it's return to center problems, check your caster. Go to Gojeep's website for a great alignment DIY guide.

 

[StylerG]

Thanks for the help, the trac bar was a fix that was necessary to fix my steering geometry, ive done the steering wheel back and forth approach looking for something loose couldnt find anything
GoJeep is a staple of mine, thats how i do my alignments!