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Changing fuel pump

the pump is installed on the front of the tank and is held in by a retaining ring, make sure that when you put in the new pump that you get the alignment peg in the right place in the tank or it will not seal up correctly. also might as well put on a new retaining ring and rubber gasket/seal, they are cheap.
 
nope, not that I can recall. It should be a simple job, especially if your rig is lifted. If I recall correctly, a stock vehicle might be more of a PIA b/c the rear axle is in the way. I have not changed one out on a non-lifted rig, so it is hard for me to say. Basically remove the fuel lines, disconnect the harness and you should be good to go....I Think! :D
 
Yeah its easy with a stock height Jeep. Definetly the hardest part is getting it lined up just right to get the retainer ring on correctly. Sometimes it can be very challenging (at least it is for me each time).

Nothing special needed except for a brass punch if your "safety" concious. I just use a standard screwdriver to get the ring on and off. May want to also go ahead and get another o-ring for where the tank meets the pump hanger. Ive never replaced mine.. but if its your only vehicle and yours is thrashed.. your out of luck! Im not sure however if you can get it at your local parts place or not... i would assume you would though.

If i was to start all over again, i would drop the tank the first time to give it a good cleaning.... but if you dont care about that then just replace it with the tank in place.
 
nah i aint safety concious and im not about to go out and buy a brass punch if i got a prefectly good screwdriver here :spin1:. So is mine untop of the fuel tank or facing the front? Can i just lay under the jeep (stock height) and do it.
 
Basically I just got done doing the job in a snow covered parking lot ina snowstorm on Tlowery04's XJ. Get a piece of cardboard to slide around on if you don't have a creeper, use your screwdriver carefully, and knock the lock ring off. For my part, I don't recommend anybody use a screwdriver - a brass hammer and a brass punch is a much better bet, but then again you must do as I say and not as I do. Make sure you depressurize the fuel system by loosening the fuel cap. It's kind of a crummy job to do...

When you get the pump and sender out, remember that you're going to have to not beat up the float and float arm too badly if you want your fuel gauge to ever work again.

There is a strain relief connector above the differential that holds the split loom out of the way of everything. Be gentle removing this little guy - it should pull out of the rear floorpan fairly easily with the right wiggle/pull technique.

Disconnect the wiring harness to the sending unit (located back by the fuel filter) before you begin. It can also be helpful to disconnect the fuel lines before you begin. Don't worry, you can't hook 'em up backwards. The big hose goes to the fuel filter and is quite clearly the fuel delivery, where the smaller hose just leads from one of the fuel lines and is clearly the return line. Make sure you have hose clamps there.

When you remove the old pump and sender, get your new pump out and look at the old one and copy its orientation - the fuel hose, the terminals, and the rubber boot things that are supposed to damp vibration. Your new pump should come with new terminals that you will probably have to bend a little. Make sure you don't overtighten the brass nuts - finger tight and then a little more should be plenty- enough to crush the lock washers but not deform the brass threads.

Buy a new "sock" in tank screener filter when you put in the new pump. The old socks are seldom serviceable, and the screener mesh keeps your pump from failing prematurely.
 
Ahh good point .. definetly depressurize the system first ;)

Always follow steps in whatever manual you may have.

BTW the pump is accessed at the front facing section of the tank. Its not located on the top. And i just jacked up the rear on mine to get better access.. depending on your size you may be able to just crawl under there. (im not big, just growing a pot belly and like to have all the room i can get)
 
Thanks man that was a great write up. I dont have a manual with me but i do have some help around so i guess it wouldn't be that hard to accomplish in an afternoon.
 
Some personal experience sugestions;
I used a short piece of PVC sprinkler pipe to spin the locking ring.
A drop of super glue will hold the gasket in place while you tighten it.
If you don't have the metal factory skid, loosen the long strap bolts and the drop the tank a bit bit.
Replace your gas lines while your're down there, they'll start leaking soon if you don't.
If you have time, make your gas tank hold more. I did and wouldn't want to go back to stock.
Here are the directions; http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoFuelTank.htm.
I used 1/2 inch copper pipe, 90 deg. elbow + short straight piece pointed up, soldered together and "J B Weld"ed to the vent tube.
 
Did this fuel pump on my 93 3 times this past summer due to faulty parts. Dont think anyone mentioned it but it's common sense to make sure the fuel is as low as possible. I know it's common sense but can't hurt to make sure. I had a hard time getting the lock ring off with a punch, brass or not. Just no room to swing a hammer in there. I found the only way that really worked well for me was to clamp vise grips onto the tit that sticks out from the lock ring and then hit the vg's with a brass hammer or whatever. Worked well for me 3 times. And when putting the stuff back together make sure that lock ring is spun on as far as it can go, that really makes a difference with seating the new washer. Hope this helps.
 
Yes that is very very true. Part of my misery doing Tlowery's jeep is that we had no idea how much gas was in the tank (sender was broke). So I knocked off that lock ring and proceeded to do the world's fastest crawl on ass and elbows from under a Jeep ever seen as gasoline poured into the parking lot from the nearly full gas tank.

Live and learn... :)
 
Nah its okay, I only got like 10-15 bucks of gas in there, with gas prices these days thats not much. Thanks for all the usefull info ill try and give it a shot tomorrow in the snow. See how that works out. Hopefully it wont be to much of a PITA, but i do see my self having some issue with clearance with the axle.
 
One last hint: Before you reinstall the locking ring, check the beveled edges on its tabs. It can be very hard to get all three tabs to go under the corresponding tabs on the tank, and if the edges are blunt or rusty, you can improve your chances by sharpening them a little.
 
Yes one time I had to do it with a tank of gas and was crawling around in gas for the job, dangerous and I literally had to get up and stick the garden hose that I had ready and stick it down my pants cause my ass was burning! Youch! I filled up my boots but it cooled my but down.
 
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