Basically I just got done doing the job in a snow covered parking lot ina snowstorm on Tlowery04's XJ. Get a piece of cardboard to slide around on if you don't have a creeper, use your screwdriver carefully, and knock the lock ring off. For my part, I don't recommend anybody use a screwdriver - a brass hammer and a brass punch is a much better bet, but then again you must do as I say and not as I do. Make sure you depressurize the fuel system by loosening the fuel cap. It's kind of a crummy job to do...
When you get the pump and sender out, remember that you're going to have to not beat up the float and float arm too badly if you want your fuel gauge to ever work again.
There is a strain relief connector above the differential that holds the split loom out of the way of everything. Be gentle removing this little guy - it should pull out of the rear floorpan fairly easily with the right wiggle/pull technique.
Disconnect the wiring harness to the sending unit (located back by the fuel filter) before you begin. It can also be helpful to disconnect the fuel lines before you begin. Don't worry, you can't hook 'em up backwards. The big hose goes to the fuel filter and is quite clearly the fuel delivery, where the smaller hose just leads from one of the fuel lines and is clearly the return line. Make sure you have hose clamps there.
When you remove the old pump and sender, get your new pump out and look at the old one and copy its orientation - the fuel hose, the terminals, and the rubber boot things that are supposed to damp vibration. Your new pump should come with new terminals that you will probably have to bend a little. Make sure you don't overtighten the brass nuts - finger tight and then a little more should be plenty- enough to crush the lock washers but not deform the brass threads.
Buy a new "sock" in tank screener filter when you put in the new pump. The old socks are seldom serviceable, and the screener mesh keeps your pump from failing prematurely.