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Carbon Lots of it

agreed, clean out as much as you can with a vacuum and be very thorough get rid of that crap..then as Talyn stated short oil changes (1k-2k) with diesel oil like rotella because of its cleaning agents should help out with all of that...i'd like to see what your oil pan looks like
 
4.0's love rotella.

that's all I've run for 5 years in a number of 4.0s. Quiets the valvetrain down too. for some reason they don't like spinning 5K RPM without noise....
 
Speaking from experience, I'd be very careful cleaning that sludge out. I found a similar / worse ammount of gunk in a Toyota 1mz, went to town cleaning it out. The next day car comes in w/ oil light on while driving. Problem? The oil pump pickup screen was blocked with the debris I'd loosened. Had to drop the pan and clean the pickup, scrape the cheese out of the oil pan & change the filter for good measure. It was fine after that, better than before, but when you de-gunk just keep in mind where else those particles could wind up.
 
Man, I've got plenty of experience with carbon. I can tell you first-hand, seafoam and the like WILL NOT take super heavy carbon off your valves and/or pistons. There's a few different kinds that seems so develop. Some of it is very ashy, and will likely get cleaned away when treated. But some is a glossy, coal-like substance that bakes itself to the valve and wont come off unless it's physically abraded. Also good luck getting a scope through the manifold. It's a pain.

I've soaked the valves with GM engine cleaner and had decent results, but still not perfect. In the end the valves were removed and carbon was scraped off with a razor blade, and then the valves were wire-wheeled. Carbon is gnarly stuff. Maintenance goes a LONG way.

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Edit: Yossarian I know EXACTLY what you're talking about hahaha. If all you had to do was clean the pickup screen you're lucky. I've seen oil galleys so plugged up the engine just starves itself until it finally blows.
 
luckily i dont have carbon that bad...i tried sea foam today and really had no difference..seemed a little more peppy but i dont know if im just thinking that or it actually did change...idle seems better tho...will try and post pictures up with the scope...but really difference their gents
 
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Yes, direct injected Toyota 4gr-fse. Has to be one of the worst engines ever engineered. Thank The Lord us jeepers will never have to deal with valves that bad because of the fuel spray on the back of them. However it can still arise in other areas, as will engine sludge.

Those Toyota motors get so bad, the carbon builds up on the valves, and piles up on top of the piston, essentially changing the compression ratio, and causing ridiculous misfiring and rpm surging. I'm not talking at 200k miles either. The one pictures had 46,000. Their solution? Newly redesigned pistons and rings, and a full engine teardown/clean/rebuild.

Take car of your jeep and follow the scheduled maintenance intervals, and you should NEVER have a problem with sludge or carbon. BG44k works great as a preventative measure every couples of tanks, but by no means is an induction service a remedy for an already present issue.
 
Yes, direct injected Toyota 4gr-fse. Has to be one of the worst engines ever engineered. Thank The Lord us jeepers will never have to deal with valves that bad because of the fuel spray on the back of them. However it can still arise in other areas, as will engine sludge.

You scared the crap out of me. lol I thought the 4.0's could have valve build-up like that. :wow:
 
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