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Build the Dana 30 or find a 44?

The exact reason why I popped the coin for the Longfields, no U-joint to break and take out the inner/outer "C" or ball joints. Plus they are as strong at full steering lock as they are pointed straight.

I also carry 2 stubs, and plugs for the axle tubes. If I pop a R&P, I can pull the Longfields, put in the stubs, pull the shaft and plug the tubes and drive it home.
 
Goatman said:
How often has a balljoint failed to the point that it came apart? Unless you blew an axle joint, then drove on it and seperated the ball joint. I've talked to a lot of desert racers about this, and while they may change ball joints somewhat regularly, the don't fail during a race, they just get loose.
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This is pretty much what I have already seen (in person, and via pictures online).


And to prevent that .. you upgrade the shafts .... which brings me to my point about letting the R&P be the weak point.



And now my head hurts as I'm thinking in circles. :dunce:
 
xjtrailrider said:
The exact reason why I popped the coin for the Longfields, no U-joint to break and take out the inner/outer "C" or ball joints. Plus they are as strong at full steering lock as they are pointed straight.

I also carry 2 stubs, and plugs for the axle tubes. If I pop a R&P, I can pull the Longfields, put in the stubs, pull the shaft and plug the tubes and drive it home.
Click to expand...

That's the route I was going to take, I think I even talked to you about it a few times. That is, until they raised the PRICE!

I have a buddy that runs them in his ZJ buggy. He's got a V8 behind them and has a reputation for the way he wheels in the rocks. They've held up great so far. (He is saving for a 60 though, FWIW)
 
xjtrailrider said:
How much?

I can't say what I payed for mine or Bobby will hunt me down! I got one of, if not the first production sets.
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$985. The last time I looked they were $850. I think that's what my buddy paid too. I know you paid less ;). I seriously ran into some extra cash and went to the web site to make a purchase...and quickly clicked on another web site.

Hey, business is business though. One great thing about those shafts is the warranties are supposed to carry over if you sell them. So they should retain their value.
 
Deadman 94 xj said:
$985. The last time I looked they were $850. I think that's what my buddy paid too. I know you paid less ;). I seriously ran into some extra cash and went to the web site to make a purchase...and quickly clicked on another web site.

Hey, business is business though. One great thing about those shafts is the warranties are supposed to carry over if you sell them. So they should retain their value.
Click to expand...

WOW! I got a heck of a deal....for once!:clap:
 
I ran with a Dana 30 for six years, on 33's for three years, then 36's for a year, and then 37's for two years. I had the warn hub kit and thought the weak point would be the 5 on 4.5 hub. I broke seven or eight stock axles, 3 short side after market axles, one long side after market axle, 2 ring and pinions, one ARB Locker, but only one hub.

I have had a LP 44 for 3 years now, still on 37's, I have broke 3 hubs, and spun one short side axle. All parts were covered under warenty.

With 33's the Dana 30 will work with lots of money in after market parts, and you still need to be "Nice" to it. With 35's you will need to take extra time to find your lines and stay off the gas.
 
As you can see, this is my first post here, just been wondering where to jump in. You guys here seem to be the front diff professors so I will just ask. I have a HP D30 in my 01 , true track, 4.10's. Just run 31s and probably won't go over 32s. Question is Warn hubs. I see you guys run them. I want them. The kit is 1400$ now and have to get new rims and do something with my D44 in the rear for 5 on 5.5. I can do the MM kit for 700$ and keep the 5 on 4.5. Is the MM kit strong enough for the 32s at all? I don't do rocks. Don't mean to jack the thread, just smack me if I am out of line.
 
to be honest it all depense on how you treat your jeep offroad, if you beat the piss out of it and don't do maintanance go with a 44, if you take care of your stuff and drive with care offroad build a 30, also with the 30 you don't have to worry about different lug patterns ect..
 
clean4drxj said:
to be honest it all depense on how you treat your jeep offroad, if you beat the piss out of it and don't do maintanance go with a 44, if you take care of your stuff and drive with care offroad build a 30, also with the 30 you don't have to worry about different lug patterns ect..
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Wrong. If you "beat the piss out of it and don't do maintanance" I'm not sure what axle would hold up.
I have a Dana 44 in the front of my rig, I don't really "beat the piss" out of it, and I do have to maintain it diligently. I have about 75,000 miles on it and have had to replace the wheel bearings and ball joints along with the diff fluid several times.
All vehicle equipment needs maintenence reguardless of how it is used.
 
Highway XJ said:
As you can see, this is my first post here, just been wondering where to jump in. You guys here seem to be the front diff professors so I will just ask. I have a HP D30 in my 01 , true track, 4.10's. Just run 31s and probably won't go over 32s. Question is Warn hubs. I see you guys run them. I want them. The kit is 1400$ now and have to get new rims and do something with my D44 in the rear for 5 on 5.5. I can do the MM kit for 700$ and keep the 5 on 4.5. Is the MM kit strong enough for the 32s at all? I don't do rocks. Don't mean to jack the thread, just smack me if I am out of line.
Click to expand...

Lot's of people successfully run the Warn 5 on 4.5" kit (now evidently Randy's Ring and Pinion). Check out Letterman's post a few back, he's still running that kit on 37's. I wouldn't spend $1400, plus new rims and new rear alloy axles, just to be able to unlock the front hubs. No way is it worth it.
 
Goatman said:
Lot's of people successfully run the Warn 5 on 4.5" kit (now evidently Randy's Ring and Pinion). Check out Letterman's post a few back, he's still running that kit on 37's. I wouldn't spend $1400, plus new rims and new rear alloy axles, just to be able to unlock the front hubs. No way is it worth it.
Click to expand...

ya me either... cheaper to swap in another axle with lock in hubs already in it...
 
Highway XJ said:
As you can see, this is my first post here, just been wondering where to jump in. You guys here seem to be the front diff professors so I will just ask. I have a HP D30 in my 01 , true track, 4.10's. Just run 31s and probably won't go over 32s. Question is Warn hubs. I see you guys run them. I want them. The kit is 1400$ now and have to get new rims and do something with my D44 in the rear for 5 on 5.5. I can do the MM kit for 700$ and keep the 5 on 4.5. Is the MM kit strong enough for the 32s at all? I don't do rocks. Don't mean to jack the thread, just smack me if I am out of line.
Click to expand...
IMHO the cost to benefit ratio is just not there for lock in hubs.
 
cal said:
You can always sell the aussie and low gear carrier to get most of your cash back later, too.
Click to expand...

That is exactly the thinking for my Dana 30 build choice. Usually interim fixes stink, but it actually seems to work OK with a lunchbox locker based on Craigslist prices.
 
Spoke with Randy's today. They have a kit under the Youkon Gear name that uses the Warn hubs, 4.5 inch bolt, no need to machine rotors out, part YAW38007 for $1150. Still can get the MM for $700. If a larger % of my driving was off road the hubs would not be for me but I am stuck in So Cal. I don't do tough 4x4, just tough enough to need 4x4. The hubs would help the drivetrain in the front last longer.
 
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