broken Flywheel question/ cranks No start long

[Talyn]

The valve cover doesn't have that good of a ground for the reasons you site... also its not bare metal either.

 

[Ecomike]

Justr laying up against a ground with some grip, like clamps won't really cut it either.

 

[Grifter144]

Yeah guys, frustration is getting the best of me and I am subsequently cutting corners while trying to hurry this process up.. . getting hell from the old man for filling his drive with my heep doesnt help too much either. I've got two hours to tinker tonight, so hopefully I can make a step forward somehow in that time frame.

 

[Grifter144]

Ok so this just got a little worse.

I was laying length wise under the jeep doing a resistance check on the CKPS. If I am understanding my multimeter correctly I am getting a reading of 000 in the resistance dept. which would indicate infinate resistance right? Versus it spitting out a number like 654 (which is what popped up when I tested it with each probe in a hand)

Ok so the worse part..So I am laying there about to pull myself out from under her and I happen to look up inbetween the tranny and the back of the motor and right there hanging from the upper back portion of the block near the rear main is a decent size drop of green fluid. Now where the hell did that come from? so much for progress sonofa.........

 

[Talyn]

Ugh... there are only two possibilities for coolant on the rear of the block. Either a leaking heater hose, which is easy to fix... or a damaged freeze plug in the back of the block or head. I hope its just a hose.... if not you will either be pulling the transmission or the head.

 

[Ecomike]

Ok so this just got a little worse.

I was laying length wise under the jeep doing a resistance check on the CKPS. If I am understanding my multimeter correctly I am getting a reading of 000 in the resistance dept. which would indicate infinate resistance right? Versus it spitting out a number like 654 (which is what popped up when I tested it with each probe in a hand)

Ok so the worse part..So I am laying there about to pull myself out from under her and I happen to look up inbetween the tranny and the back of the motor and right there hanging from the upper back portion of the block near the rear main is a decent size drop of green fluid. Now where the hell did that come from? so much for progress sonofa.........

You lost me with the meter measurements. Need to be more specific. 000 is not infinate, it is zero resistance, a dead short. What kind of meter are you using? Most cheap meters never show 000, the usualy show about .1 or .01 for a dead probe to probe short.

Check the heater hoses near the heater core connections on the firewall for the coolant leak.

 

[Grifter144]

sorry, ecomike I'm using a yellow Sperry digital multimeter. Read up on using it on line last night. Sorry the 000 was a misprint on my part. When I flip the dial to ohms it shows 1.000 (however the 1 is blinking). If I press the range button on the top left of my meter the decimal moves to the right 1 space. If I mate the two probes I get 000, if I place them each in one hand I get some variation 650-1000 on the meter. When I was attempting the checks of the CKPS I would get no change from the start up on the meter regardless of were I put the decimal. Does this make sense?

 

[Ecomike]

No change would be infinite resistance which is bad. If you were reading just the CPKS and the wiring harness was detached (in other words testing just the CPKS and not the computer and wiring harness too), then it is defective.

 

[lawsoncl]

No change would be infinite resistance which is bad. If you were reading just the CPKS and the wiring harness was detached (in other words testing just the CPKS and not the computer and wiring harness too), then it is defective.

It's a 2000, so the CPS should not read a low resistance. Older Renix era CPS sensor should be 125-275 ohms. If he's got any spark or fuel injectors firing at all, the CPS is probably good.
========

CPS Testing
Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)

TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

 

[Ecomike]

Strange that they say to put on a 1000 to 10,000 ohm (1K to 10K) scale, and they say it should read infinite. Bizzare might be more like it. It might read over range, but most meters go up 5 meg ohms or higher, and many are autoranging. Could it be that it might read a resistance above 10k?

How does it work with infinite resistance anyway?

Thanks for posting the correction. This is the first I have heard of the HO CPK being so radically different on the test.

 

[Grifter144]

It's a 2000, so the CPS should not read a low resistance. Older Renix era CPS sensor should be 125-275 ohms. If he's got any spark or fuel injectors firing at all, the CPS is probably good.
========

CPS Testing
Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)

TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

thanks, the above directions I was following in another thread to guide me thru the process of testing. IF I am reading that correctly then my CKPS is good as no change on the multimeter indicates infinate resistance

Ecomike, yes I was just testing the CKPS (unattached from the wiring harness) I am now searching for what I should be looking for if I was going to test for Continuity from the harness to the ECM/PCM, as well i am looking for the reading I should be getting when testing the MAP and TPS to ensure they are still in proper spec.

 

[lawsoncl]

How does it work with infinite resistance anyway?

The Renix Crank Sensor was nothing more than a coil, generating a/c pulses as the slots on the flexplate go by. I believe the later HO-engine sensor is a hall-effect sensor with a small integrated circuit that turns those pulses into a nice 12 volt square wave. Basically, it cleans the signal up and amplifies it right at the sensor instead of inside the PCM. That also explains why the old sensor had 2 wires and the new one has three.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect#Automotive_ignition_and_fuel_injection

If I still had my ZJ, I'd grab the o-scope and walk outside and measure it. But alas, I traded it in this spring and just have the MJ. I do recall posting o-scope pictures of the cps signal fro mthe MJ proving that adding a small capacitor to the sensor would boost the signal.

Edit - This would also explain why they wanted the meter set to a 10k range. A very sensitive meter might read a resistance in the high megaohm range on the output of the sensor.

 

[Grifter144]

alright here it goes. Thank you all so much.

The heep is sitting in the drive idleing. Thank you for all the input guys. Ended up being a couple of different things.

1. As Oldman had suggested earlier "index the cam" Wer got that done today with a timing light and a toothpick.

2. The "new" napa coil rail was defective. I threw the old one in and it started right up.

I am now trying to figure out how to iron out/fine tune the rough running part of driving it. It is fine idleing in the drive, but as soon as I start throwing fuel its way it just gets kinda rough. Not bad, just sorta rough. Kinda feels like its bogging down.

Again thanks for all the input guys.

I fully intend to reup my old membership as soon as the wife or I find stable employment. This pinching pennies stuff we gotta do in detroit really sucks.

Thanks again..

 

[Talyn]

1. As Oldman had suggested earlier "index the cam" Wer got that done today with a timing light and a toothpick.

How did you use a timing light to index the cam sensor? Also, where did you clip the inductive end?