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Brake issue! !!
- Thread starter pezman65
- Start date
Rock Auto has non-ABS master cylinders.
1991
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,brake/wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F
1995 - 2001
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+cylinder,1836?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/
I don't see any master cylinder rebuild kits.
My master cylinder eventually failed. Most likely the internal proportioning valve was worn. The brake light was intermittent and sometimes constantly on. The new MC was easy enough to install.
First the MC was bench bled. I do have brake bleeder tools that use the brake pedal to bleed the brake system.
Instead of braking the pedal to bleed with bleeder equipment, I first opened up the rears and let them sit for a while, bleeding using gravity. Closed the rears and did the same to the front.
When gravity bleeding you don't ever want to touch the brake pedal. However I did push on the brake pedal every so slightly to speed up the gravity bleed. Without using the brake pedal the fluid should gravity feed from the MC reservoir and it will eventually empty itself if more fluid is not added. If the brake fluid doesn't go down indicates you have a clogged brake line or something wrong with the bleeder valve. You need to have a can for each wheel to catch the brake fluid.
Kept adding fluid and never allowing the MC reservoir to become empty. I purged any old fluid out of the system. (Old fluid sometimes becomes moist with water, so I made certain there was no moisture in the brake system)
Sometime you need to let them sit open for a while adding more fluid to gravity bleed. Once bled closed the valves. Brakes are good and tight, with no brake warning light.
My brakes are non-ABS. With ABS you may need other equipment and procedures for installation and bleeding.
1991
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180055,brake/wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F
1995 - 2001
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+cylinder,1836?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/
I don't see any master cylinder rebuild kits.
My master cylinder eventually failed. Most likely the internal proportioning valve was worn. The brake light was intermittent and sometimes constantly on. The new MC was easy enough to install.
First the MC was bench bled. I do have brake bleeder tools that use the brake pedal to bleed the brake system.
Instead of braking the pedal to bleed with bleeder equipment, I first opened up the rears and let them sit for a while, bleeding using gravity. Closed the rears and did the same to the front.
When gravity bleeding you don't ever want to touch the brake pedal. However I did push on the brake pedal every so slightly to speed up the gravity bleed. Without using the brake pedal the fluid should gravity feed from the MC reservoir and it will eventually empty itself if more fluid is not added. If the brake fluid doesn't go down indicates you have a clogged brake line or something wrong with the bleeder valve. You need to have a can for each wheel to catch the brake fluid.
Kept adding fluid and never allowing the MC reservoir to become empty. I purged any old fluid out of the system. (Old fluid sometimes becomes moist with water, so I made certain there was no moisture in the brake system)
Sometime you need to let them sit open for a while adding more fluid to gravity bleed. Once bled closed the valves. Brakes are good and tight, with no brake warning light.
My brakes are non-ABS. With ABS you may need other equipment and procedures for installation and bleeding.
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Ummmm..... I would stay away from that. I bought that Crown conversion. It was over $400.00 shipped to my local Off Road shop. You have to modify the brake lines, you have to modify the mounting point on the pedal assembly for the shaft that connects to it (pull brake pedal out, knock out pivot pin in center of pedal assembly, drill new hole in BPA and weld pin into new hole), the brake lines come out of the left side of the MC, the booster/master cylinder is so big that with the lines coming out of the MC, there is no way to reinstall the windshield washer reservoir, pedal effort doubled and was actually dangerous to drive, need to stay very far from vehicle in front of me. Then within a week of install, pedal would stick down and brakes would drag and brake lights would stay on. I literally had to drive it with one foot under the brake pedal and pull up on it every time after every stop. Big POS.
Your best bet and the best way is go to Rockauto and get 1995 - 2001 master cylinder (I went with the new Raybestos, about $52 or if you want, they also have rebuilt ones. The new one was so reasonable pricewise, I just went new.) or just pick it up rebuilt at your local auto parts store where you can also pick up the 1995-1996 power brake booster. Easy peasy. You could also do the junkyard thing, whatever is best for you. I personally like the new or rebuilt with warranty over the junkyard piece, but that is just me. You can reuse the proportioning valve that you have in the vehicle, worked for me, or , if you're doing the junkyard thing, grab it with the whole assembly like LKN did.
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Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
I think those crown booster kits might be more intended for a CJ or full size Cherokee than XJ. I've never heard a good story involving this kit.
I got JY pieces but am not doing the swap right away, might just used them as a core but wanted the bolts and lines. Honestly the JY cylinder does not look bad but I'd hate to have to do the job twice because of a failing part.
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I got JY pieces but am not doing the swap right away, might just used them as a core but wanted the bolts and lines. Honestly the JY cylinder does not look bad but I'd hate to have to do the job twice because of a failing part.
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Yea, they make it for a couple of different jeeps. This one was supposed to be specific for my '91 XJ. I thought "Yea it's a lot of money but it's all new and the easiest way to go, it's bolt in and go!" Yea right...
Biggest problem is that by the time I installed it, it was already out of warranty. Oh well (sigh). I now have a 25 pound paperweight. The master cylinder is about the size of a Fiat 500.
And on the not wanting to do it twice, I'm right there with you. I have that kind of luck with junkyard things. I'll bet ya that I have pulled at least 15 alternators from junkyards over the years and have yet to find one that has ever worked. I finally gave up and just buy good rebuilt ones from auto part stores.
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
On my 91, I took the parts off a 98 grand cherokee. Booster, master, combo valve, rear disc backing plate, calipers, discs and pads. Welded a washer to my hand brake cables to get a loop to attach to the hand brake. Works fine. I'd go a different route with the hand brake since I don't have any preload on my hand brake so they don't always release when I drop the handle. The spring on the end broke off when I was removing them from the old drums and I never cared enough to add new springs or get new cables.
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Interesting Omix-Ada has a kit s-52008647. It is supposed to be a 95-96 Cherokee booster and master set.
Some places list it as a kit to replace the older XJ brake systems.
It is pricy. As a lot of their stuff is. Beside that I've been disappointed by their quality recently. That's was on small part they have made in China no clue about the quality of something like this .
Edit: I only mention them because their kit looks correct and crown looks like it's for a CJ or SJ
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Some places list it as a kit to replace the older XJ brake systems.
It is pricy. As a lot of their stuff is. Beside that I've been disappointed by their quality recently. That's was on small part they have made in China no clue about the quality of something like this .
Edit: I only mention them because their kit looks correct and crown looks like it's for a CJ or SJ
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Yea you should be fine. I had pulled another one from the JY just in case, but the original worked fine.
After you pull all of the ABS parts out, look at the proportioning valve, one end has 2 lines coming out of it and the other end will have just 1. The end that has 2 lines is for the front brakes and the end with 1 line is for the rear brakes. The front port on the master cylinder (the end closest to the radiator) goes to the rear brakes and the rear port (closest to the firewall) goes to the front brakes. Just so you know which line from the MC to PV goes where.
I would suggest going to a junk yard and getting the lines from the MS to the PV and sometimes there is a spacer between the power brake booster and the firewall pick one of those up also. Just find a '95 or '96 to pull these parts from. It will make the swap easier to do. Watch the video from LKN's post to see the spacer I am referring to.
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So I pulled the reservoir off first and I'm unhooking all the bolts now I just have a bunch of brake lines holding everything in but it also has this big bump thing underneath the master cylinder that has lines coming out of it this is all confusing on the brake lines I'll show you a picture. So does that big bump thing underneath come out also it's all bolted together kind of? I haven't seen any video of people redoing the lines because there's more lines on the pump looking thing confused ! :-(
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Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Yeah, I think that box/bump thing is the abs pump. You've got to pretty much gut all the old stuff out
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