I guess you missed the part in my post where I said that I have the whole system and that you can have it.
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Brake issue! !!
- Thread starter pezman65
- Start date
I guess you missed the part in my post where I said that I have the whole system and that you can have it.
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
You can buy all the brake lines new from a company that specializes in old cars. I know of them from last year when I broke a brake line to the proportioning valve , turned out advance has the right line with the correct fittings just bend to shape, but there is a company that sells all the steel lines for the XJ, I'll have to look up their name but they were on eBay.
The rest I'd buy the same year booster master proportion valve you get the lines for . Id go newer, those work better.
This sucks because Chrysler is cutting support short of true life time. I'm sure they have a plausible legal excuse, that don't make it right. I hope some XJer sues the snot out of them for this. It's a true safety issue with no solution in their book but junking a good jeep
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The rest I'd buy the same year booster master proportion valve you get the lines for . Id go newer, those work better.
This sucks because Chrysler is cutting support short of true life time. I'm sure they have a plausible legal excuse, that don't make it right. I hope some XJer sues the snot out of them for this. It's a true safety issue with no solution in their book but junking a good jeep
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Last edited:
Well if you don't want the parts that I am offering and you want to replace everything, Here's what you do;
You might as well upgrade to the dual diaphragm booster while you're at it, doesn't cost any more.
1- Get a 1998+ (I used 2000 just to be safe) XJ power brake booster and master cylinder. you can go used like from junkyard or get rebuilt from parts stores or brand new from Rockauto, your choice. Also, you might have to get the proper master cylinder line fittings and a brake pedal from a 1998+ XJ in a junkyard.
2- If you don't already have them, you will need at least a tubing bender and if you can't find the correct length brake lines, a double flaring tool. You can get assorted length brake lines from almost any parts store.
3- This is the fun part, tear all the ABS stuff out. You will not believe the amount of crap this system uses. Leave the proportioning valve and all the lines from it on back. Don't forget to disconnect the box that is under the back seat on drivers side and take it out, this is the ABS controller. Also, pull the bulb out of the dash for ABS.
4- Before installing the power booster, make sure that you use some kind of foam or rubber gasket in between the booster and firewall. I just used some self stick weatherstripping that I picked up at Lowes or HomeDepot.
5- Fab up some brake lines from master cylinder to the proportioning valve (remember line from front of MS goes to rear port of PV. and vice versa for rear port of MC).
That's pretty much it. I left out a few small steps but they are obvious and you'll figure it out.
If you don't want to go through with all that (I would and did and am very pleased with it) you can have my ABS spare parts and fix what you have right now. It's up to you.
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
http://m.ebay.com/itm/272217304098?_mwBanner=1
Here is that place I was tell you about.
Their eBay listing anyhow.
Honestly I'd take warlock up on his offer.
You might be better off in the long run converting but it's going to be a lot of work.
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Here is that place I was tell you about.
Their eBay listing anyhow.
Honestly I'd take warlock up on his offer.
You might be better off in the long run converting but it's going to be a lot of work.
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You have the new master cylinder already? Am I understanding that correctly?
Also, there is a certain procedure for bleeding that system. Look it up in the factory service manual. Because the system also uses the brake fluid for the assist, and the many solenoids and valves, and the fact you are getting into the assist part of the system, it's kind of a PITA to get all the air out. You need to do it the way the factory recommends or you'll never get all the air out.
Also, there is a certain procedure for bleeding that system. Look it up in the factory service manual. Because the system also uses the brake fluid for the assist, and the many solenoids and valves, and the fact you are getting into the assist part of the system, it's kind of a PITA to get all the air out. You need to do it the way the factory recommends or you'll never get all the air out.
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Maybe I can contribute here. For one, I have the Bendix system and have had the dealership replace the pump twice for me for free. They always give me a bill over $1000 with a $0 balance.
My problem stemmed from me swapping in a non-abs Chrysler 8.25, so now the pump runs constantly. As those have said here before, it's an interesting system so you can't just pull the ABS relay.
What you need for the simplest swap is a brake booster from a 1995 or 1996 XJ ONLY. Find one at a JY, pay $45 or so and take the whole booster and proportioning valve.
Then watch this video and he tells you everything you need to know to complete the swap.
Do de-pressurize the accumulator, pump the brake 50 times before taking any ABS stuff apart per the manual.
Here's the video:
https://youtu.be/6iFvq949x1w
And what you're looking for at the JY looks like this. Must be from a 95-96.
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My problem stemmed from me swapping in a non-abs Chrysler 8.25, so now the pump runs constantly. As those have said here before, it's an interesting system so you can't just pull the ABS relay.
What you need for the simplest swap is a brake booster from a 1995 or 1996 XJ ONLY. Find one at a JY, pay $45 or so and take the whole booster and proportioning valve.
Then watch this video and he tells you everything you need to know to complete the swap.
Do de-pressurize the accumulator, pump the brake 50 times before taking any ABS stuff apart per the manual.
Here's the video:
https://youtu.be/6iFvq949x1w
And what you're looking for at the JY looks like this. Must be from a 95-96.
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And the reason for the "only 1995 and 1996" is because of the brake pedal? The master cylinder has the same part number from the 1995-2001, but the booster has a different number for the '95-'96 and the '97-'00 years. Is the difference where the booster shaft mounts onto the brake pedal assembly? The reason I ask this is because in between my conversion from ABS to the 2000 XJ setup, I had installed what was called a direct fit conversion from Crown. This setup sucked for many reasons but the one that relates to this question is that I had to relocate the booster shaft mount on the brake pedal lever. This is why when I suggested the 2000 setup, I told him to get the brake pedal also, just in case. Also, was the '95-'96 booster a dual diaphragm? Hard to find info on this subject.
Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
I believe the 95-96 had a better booster and the right pushrod.
I think the WJ ??-04 was the next recommended swap.
The other part of the problem was fitting the booster in the space, later XJ moved the reservoir so bigger boosters fit.
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I think the WJ ??-04 was the next recommended swap.
The other part of the problem was fitting the booster in the space, later XJ moved the reservoir so bigger boosters fit.
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Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Here's a write up on it for a MJ. I may have some of the facts wrong, I looked it up when some months ago when I couldn't get ours brakes feeling right.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-0810-cheap-jeep-brake-system-upgrades/
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http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-0810-cheap-jeep-brake-system-upgrades/
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Ok, I need to make a correction on an earlier post of mine. I had stated in the directions of installing the later model booster/master cylinder to use a 1998 or later. I was wrong. LKN is correct. Use a 1995-1996 booster.
The reason that I said to use the 1998 + booster is that in between the original ABS delete and the upgrade to the 2000 that I am using, I had installed what was called a "direct fit" booster and master cylinder upgrade from Crown. Among the many problems with this system, I had to move the booster attachment location on the brake pedal assembly. I had gone to the JY and and had taken brake pedals from a couple of different year XJ's and when I went to the 2000 XJ setup, I used whatever pedal worked. I forgot about this.
Hopefully I didn't cause anyone to get the wrong parts if they were doing this conversion. Sorry about that.
We should make a sticky with all the info on the different years of booster/master cylinder and interchangeability. This is a common modification on our XJ's. I had a hard time finding this info and it would be nice to easily access this info. Just a thought. Either that or I really need to learn how to search better.
The reason that I said to use the 1998 + booster is that in between the original ABS delete and the upgrade to the 2000 that I am using, I had installed what was called a "direct fit" booster and master cylinder upgrade from Crown. Among the many problems with this system, I had to move the booster attachment location on the brake pedal assembly. I had gone to the JY and and had taken brake pedals from a couple of different year XJ's and when I went to the 2000 XJ setup, I used whatever pedal worked. I forgot about this.
Hopefully I didn't cause anyone to get the wrong parts if they were doing this conversion. Sorry about that.
We should make a sticky with all the info on the different years of booster/master cylinder and interchangeability. This is a common modification on our XJ's. I had a hard time finding this info and it would be nice to easily access this info. Just a thought. Either that or I really need to learn how to search better.
LKN_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
Yeah the main reason the 95 - 96 is the preferred swap is because there is minimal work that needs to be done to get the brake switch to work because of the rod end, and of course the booster is twice as big.
There are other swaps you can do for sure - I was just saying this one is the simplest.
Here's some more pics to aid:
http://www.karlsgarage.com/xjpage/brakebooster.htm
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There are other swaps you can do for sure - I was just saying this one is the simplest.
Here's some more pics to aid:
http://www.karlsgarage.com/xjpage/brakebooster.htm
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Green Mesa XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pensacola, FL
Whoa! Is that a electric vacuum pump for bleeding the brakes?!
Sweet! Where the hell do I find one?
About forum searches, I know people get mad at redundant posts but it's not a great search system, even google searches don't always list what is here.
I second the motion to make a sticky on the brake booster upgrade and also the factory ABS problem a lot of new owners (new to the jeep) may not be aware of.
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Sweet! Where the hell do I find one?
About forum searches, I know people get mad at redundant posts but it's not a great search system, even google searches don't always list what is here.
I second the motion to make a sticky on the brake booster upgrade and also the factory ABS problem a lot of new owners (new to the jeep) may not be aware of.
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Luckily, the '91 has the brake light switch mounted on a bracket under the dash and the brake pedal arm comes back and hits up against it and is adjustable about 3/8" - 1/2" in and out. It is not mounted on the booster shaft like in that video. This makes it much easier for modifying.
