Blew the 4.0L in my DD - Looking at Replacement Options (Cost is a Concern)

[N8N_99xj]

No, you're not... I hate those damned things. I remember fighting with the same fittings on my old F*rd pickup truck to replace the fuel filter. I don't know what happened to the tools that I bought at that time either, I thought I had everything so organized...

In any case, once I could actually *look* at the damn thing, pour some penetrating oil straight down there, and put some Channellocks on the sawed off stub, it came off in a few minutes. Which is good; I was really close to hacksawing the other end, and getting some bulk trans cooler line and FI type hose clamps, which really would be the way to go for future serviceability anyway.

sort of off topic, but you might care, I used a "Spectra Premium" single core rad which was about $80-something from several parts stores (NAPA, Pep Boys, an independent one near my buddy's shop) and it seems to be working well, although I have not challenged it with any real hot weather - warmest it's been is about 70 degrees since I installed it. Engine is running cooler than it was with 15 year old original radiator, anyway... sits at 195 all day. I found some cardboard inside it however so give it a quick flush before you install if you go that route.

 

[kastein]

That fitting can go straight to hell.

I ended up getting medieval on it too. Now I just eliminate the AW4 and put in a real transmission instead

(the AW4 is a damn good slushbox but it is still a slushbox.)

 

[Tony_SS]

WD40, twist, twist, twist, tool in and pull... they get seized up easily.

And for a 0639 engine casting cost jumps up pretty high... supply and demand.. too many cracked heads make the blocks harder to come by. And no way I would drop in a used 00-01 engine.

 

[kastein]

You don't get road salt in the winter, do you?

Up here those fittings turn into a solid ball of gunk, road grime, and rust chunks, unless you are lucky and they leaked since the vehicle was a year old.

 

[Tony_SS]

Oh yeah we do, but I guess this one was dodged salt.. I did work with it for a good 15 mins but I got it undone.

 

[Jonner]

New issue:

I'm nearly done unplugging, removing, and tagging the wiring harness in the engine bay. I just got done removing the grounds off the passenger side of the engine block.

I tried pulling the wiring harness free of the engine, and noticed that the wiring harness routes through the support bracket for the oil dipstick tube. It looks like its a stud that has been in place since 1998, so I'm trying to figure this out right now.

EDIT: Found a thread that explains it http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245122002

I'm going to use this thread as my engine build thread to document the swap so stay posted for pictures. This will be the slowest engine swap in history (I think).

 

[Tony_SS]

I sort of documented my process... it might be of help to you.

 

[Jonner]

Hey Tony,

I think I found your thread but the pics are dead:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1106984

 

[Tony_SS]

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1102411

sorry about some pics... the server i was using crashed and took out some.

 

[Jonner]

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1102411

sorry about some pics... the server i was using crashed and took out some.

Nice, the pics are working. Thanks Tony, this will be very helpful!

I'm at the point that everything is disconnected except for the bellhousing bolts. I've hesitated because I've heard them called the dreaded bolts and didn't want to risk stripping them or getting seriously frustrated. I've read there are two ways to go at it:

1) Order an E12 box end wrench (not sure if a wratchet or standard wrench is better). Reach it from the top. Taking off the head will increase access. In my case the engine is coming apart so this wouldn't cause me any extra work. I tried to go this route at first but couldn't find an E12 box end wrench locally (tried 6 stores).

2) Use an E12 socket and lots of extensions and drop the tail end of the transmission. Come at it from underneath the car. I found a link that documents this process and will be going this route:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/hot-to-reach-those-two-bolts-on-top-of-bellhousing-65470.html
I'm going to have to teach my wife how to climb on top of the engine to secure the end of the female torx socket for me.

Hopefully this helps someone else in a search later. I'll let you know how it goes and still need to post up my progress pics.

-Jonna

 

[Jonner]

Tony,

What was your reasons for ordering the block from a local engine builder and the head from J & S enterprises?

I've never heard of J & S enterprises... curious because I still have decisions to make on how I'm putting together my engine.

TIA

 

[kastein]

There's another way that isn't as bad, take the whole drivetrain out. If you think about it, you're a couple driveshafts, connectors, and a crossmember from just yanking the whole thing and working on it sitting next to it on the floor.

I've done one engine swap without pulling the trans and half a dozen "pull the whole thing out" swaps, I did the engine-only one last just to see how I liked it. It sucks, I'll do it my normal way in the future.

You could also pull the motor mounts and drop the engine down a couple inches with the hoist, then you can reach those bolts quite easily from what I hear.

 

[Jeepguy03]

There's another way that isn't as bad, take the whole drivetrain out. If you think about it, you're a couple driveshafts, connectors, and a crossmember from just yanking the whole thing and working on it sitting next to it on the floor.

I've done one engine swap without pulling the trans and half a dozen "pull the whole thing out" swaps, I did the engine-only one last just to see how I liked it. It sucks, I'll do it my normal way in the future.

You could also pull the motor mounts and drop the engine down a couple inches with the hoist, then you can reach those bolts quite easily from what I hear.

Never thought about doing it that way.... Then you don't have to mess with those top two torx bolts on the bell housing. :cheers:

Any ideas what the whole drivetrain weighs? I'm ASSuming you just pulled the front clip and used an engine crane.

 

[Tony_SS]

I would take the head off. Then you can use a regular 12 point wrench with a swivel head like this

Use a pry bar to put leverage on it then tap it loose with a mallet. It was really easy for me using that method.

Tony,

What was your reasons for ordering the block from a local engine builder and the head from J & S enterprises?

I've never heard of J & S enterprises... curious because I still have decisions to make on how I'm putting together my engine.

TIA

The local builder has a good rep around here. Plus warranty reasons if something went wrong. And the price was a bit less than ATK, jasper etc. Plus they have install bays if I ever got stuck they could pick it up and do the job for me.

J & C had great feedback on ebay, good customer service and I talked to someone who used their head on a jeep here locally and was pleased. So I went with them.

Just remember, take the old dowl pins out of your existing head before you turn it in for a core. !!!!

 

[kastein]

I did pull that stuff. Front clip and radiator out of the way.

Engine is around 500 longblock, I'd say 600 dressed, add 150-200 for the tranny and 100 for the transfer case. I used a harbor freight engine crane (the smaller one) with the arm extended all the way out and had no problems. Remove the starter motor and maybe unbolt the passenger side frame to motor mount bracket so they don't snag as much on the way out, and it's a lot easier if you have a load leveling bar or a ratchet strap to persuade the drivetrain to tip up and down as needed.

The next time I do a trans swap it's all coming out, but mostly so I can get a broken exhaust stud out of the cylinder head and probably slap some new rod bearings and various gaskets on the block while I'm in there, it could use em.

As for a 12 point ratchet, don't use one of those on E12s if you want them to come off instead of rounding. If you really have to, you can hammer a 10mm 6 POINT ONLY socket onto them and they'll come off, but a 10mm 12 point will round them quite happily and then a 6 point won't hammer on securely enough. Don't even ask how I know this.

 

[Jeepguy03]

I did pull that stuff. Front clip and radiator out of the way.

Engine is around 500 longblock, I'd say 600 dressed, add 150-200 for the tranny and 100 for the transfer case. I used a harbor freight engine crane (the smaller one) with the arm extended all the way out and had no problems. Remove the starter motor and maybe unbolt the passenger side frame to motor mount bracket so they don't snag as much on the way out, and it's a lot easier if you have a load leveling bar or a ratchet strap to persuade the drivetrain to tip up and down as needed.

The next time I do a trans swap it's all coming out, but mostly so I can get a broken exhaust stud out of the cylinder head and probably slap some new rod bearings and various gaskets on the block while I'm in there, it could use em.

As for a 12 point ratchet, don't use one of those on E12s if you want them to come off instead of rounding. If you really have to, you can hammer a 10mm 6 POINT ONLY socket onto them and they'll come off, but a 10mm 12 point will round them quite happily and then a 6 point won't hammer on securely enough. Don't even ask how I know this.

Good to know, thanks for the info.