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Looking around for a SYE and driveshaft for my MJ and was wondering what is the best kit to purchase? Not looking for a cheap one, I want a good qualtiy one and also a good cv driveshaft. Anyone have a good experience to pass on? thanks, Judd
i dont think he meant it that way chuck... i guess most sye kits are the same.... with the only dif being if its a kit with a new shaft or a hack n tap..... hard ware is basically the same... if money and time are not an issue i would do the kit with a new shaft.. and freshen up the inside of the t/case while im in there... new chain and maybe a 3.8:1 low range kit too.. i'm about to buy a Rubicon Express SYE kit and d/shaft soon myself..
mike
Since XJChuck started it, how about a NV241OR from a Rubicon? 4:1 low - I'm thinking it would fit nicely in my XJ, too...
In the meantime I've got an RE Hack-n-Tap enroute. If I felt like throwing more $$$ into it I'd say a beefier output shaft along with the SYE would have been a better investment.
What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.
What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.
then ur saying that all of tom woods kits are just band-aids and every kit out there except for the JB conversions and AA kit are bad-aids? because they are all "hack and taps" just with the kits other then RE...the company does it for u. still a stock output shaft...still a new tail cone. bottom line
What are you trying to say?Yes,all the other kits(RE,TW,MIT,Currie)are all band-aids to a poor design by Jeep.Only the AA and JB kits address the problem!
I thought the problem is the inability of the stock driveshaft to handle the angles from the t-case to rear axle. If that's the case then anything that puts a double cardan joint in solves that problem. The kits that come with the shorter tailshaft/housing are better, as they allow for a shorter driveshaft thus reducing the angle, but as long as the angles are within the correct operating range for the cardan joint then the other kits that don't provide for a longer drive shaft are fine.
If the problem is something else please let me know.
Stoneattic has it right. the only thing that the JB and AA sye's do different then the other kits is that they have a bigger output shaft. the bottom line is if u need the big output shaft then u probably need to be running something stronger then a 231 or 242. then its time to start thinking atlas II or a d300
Please clarify AA and JB for the great unwashed out here. Also, I have seen Rubicon Express, as an example, with two different kits. One is around $100 and the other is around $250 and has more parts.
Advanced adapters are the only two I have helped install and I like the HD output shaft myself. As for stock shaft I have seen two of them bend by my buddy (Tolly) who had a RE hack and tap in one and stock slip yolk in the other. In both of his TJ's. We are doing a AA sye in his this week. He is pretty hard on the throttle though
i was about to say bucky...tolly kinda deserved the tailshaft to bed on the jeep though...if it hadnt bent though...the aluminum case very well may have gave way...so...maybe its not a bad thing it bent.
If you want the best SYE for the 231, get either the JB or AA SYE Kit. The RE kit, if you really look at it is only a deal for the later XJ's the earlier ones might as well go to the HD kits for the extra $50.
The real problem is the loading on the shaft due to the amount of "un-supported" shaft after the bearing.If your talking early XJ's then the price is almost a wash.If were talking about 97+ then you will benifit even more.
With the exception of the 97+ RE kit,the JB and AA kits are the same price as the modified stock shafts but they are Heavy Duty.
You may want to replace the chain, you can upgrade to the larger chain but you have to replace the sprockets to. Then if you add it all up, $250 SYE + $100 chain + ~$200 sprockets = $550, that puts me way too close to a new Tcase all together.