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Best long arm kit

Which long arm upgrade

  • Clayton Hard arm kit ($799) welding required

    Votes: 47 48.5%
  • RE Long arm upgrade ($949)

    Votes: 30 30.9%
  • Rusty's Long arm upgrade ($800 ?)

    Votes: 20 20.6%

  • Total voters
    97
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Alaskaflyr said:
I don't know much about long arm vs. short arm, are you saying the long arm kits ride better on the road. I'm in the process of putting a new lift on my 99 XJ and I will be using this as my daily driver. I'm really interested in the Full Traction kit.

I know alot of people are anti-Rustys here. If someone could tell me why?other than "they suck" it would be helpful, I have also been looking at his 6.5 spring pack kit.

Thanks

Gary
Yeah I know lots of anti-Rusty down here and I don't really have any problem with Rusty products. I bought them last year so I heard lots of them complain when they bought from them several years ago. I assume Rusty's products got better in last 1-2 years. But if I were you as of right now, I would just buy the suspension components from different companies instead of buy a whole kit. My list would be Rusty 6.5 coils, Rock Control Long arms, JKS quick disconnect sway bars & Track bar, Teraflex shackles and Alcan leaf springs. You have to remember there are lots of hidden costs in it. Once you got it lifted, you may need SYE, driveshaft and re-gears.
Wish you a good luck.
 
LJRXJ said:
Yeah I know lots of anti-Rusty down here and I don't really have any problem with Rusty products. I bought them last year so I heard lots of them complain when they bought from them several years ago. I assume Rusty's products got better in last 1-2 years. But if I were you as of right now, I would just buy the suspension components from different companies instead of buy a whole kit. My list would be Rusty 6.5 coils, Rock Control Long arms, JKS quick disconnect sway bars & Track bar, Teraflex shackles and Alcan leaf springs. You have to remember there are lots of hidden costs in it. Once you got it lifted, you may need SYE, driveshaft and re-gears.
Wish you a good luck.

So are you saying that it would be less expensive to piece the kit together myself, Heck, I'm all about savin a few buck, that means I can buy more goodies.

I hope I understood you right

Thanks again

Gary
 
azxjman said:
Do you even have a slight concept of suspension geometry or do you just spew worthless crap out your mouth for the fun of it. If you had short uppers and long lowers you axle would rotate back and forth as it cycled.

So what? This same thing happens when you use radius arms, or when you use a setup like Clayton's. It's not an issue at highway speeds since you're not experiencing large suspension movements.

Sure, it's not optimum, but he's not building a truggy that needs to handle well while having 30" of suspension travel while doing 100mph across wadi-wadis......

In short-- you both have your points-- but I think your reaction is a bit much.
 
Why Rusty's LA kit sucks.

longarm_07.jpg
 
Alaskaflyr said:
So are you saying that it would be less expensive to piece the kit together myself, Heck, I'm all about savin a few buck, that means I can buy more goodies.

I hope I understood you right

Thanks again

Gary
No Buy a whole kit is much cheaper. The list I just typed is what I like the most.
 
burntkat said:
So what? This same thing happens when you use radius arms, or when you use a setup like Clayton's. It's not an issue at highway speeds since you're not experiencing large suspension movements.

Sure, it's not optimum, but he's not building a truggy that needs to handle well while having 30" of suspension travel while doing 100mph across wadi-wadis......

In short-- you both have your points-- but I think your reaction is a bit much.


NO it does not do the same thing when you use radius arm style such as clayton or rusty's. Since the upper is attached to the lower and about the same length as the drive shaft it almost keeps perfect arc as it follows it's path. My drive shaft never moves more than a 1/4 inch on it's slip yoke. There was a kit that came out like this on the market for really cheap right when the long-arm craze started. It used the stock upper location and long arms that attached right in front of the crossmember, the axle would rotate so much that I would not have driven it on the street if I got payed to.
 
Alaskaflyr said:
So are you saying that it would be less expensive to piece the kit together myself, Heck, I'm all about savin a few buck, that means I can buy more goodies.

I hope I understood you right

Thanks again

Gary
If you can weld you can definately save more than a few bucks. If you are going to do axle swaps to run bigger than a 33" tire, you have tons of options. And if you have a local pick and pull you can get stuff to give you the lift you are looking for. My rear leafs cost me $45 for a pair of comanche leafs and a pair of waggy leafs that I mixed together that gives me around 7" of lift with an my shackle. I run radius arms in the front so that gives me an automatic two inches of lift and then I run 3" Rough Country springs ( I got the 3" kit to $100) and a 1 3/4" spacer. It's all about what you want to build.
 
the pic illustrating the problem with rusty's: are you alluding to the lack of rear travel or just demonstrating the travel and being sarcastic?
 
The lack of any balance in the suspension. Other than that I really don't see anything wrong with the front suspension. But the kit (with rear springs) needs some tuning.
 
I just figured I'de add my 2 cents... that's about all I have left. I Have the RE XJLA 5.5 upgraded to 7.5 and am loving it...cost was not a consideration. Bolted it on, works good, no problems. My rig works very,very good off road, it may not have as much flex as I have seen on some custom configurations that have been mixed together; but as a daily driver that easily goes down the freeway at maximum "legal" speed limit and handles very well on the pavement it is a super capable trail rig also. My set up feels very balanced and my XJ now does what "I" wanted it to do. I agree with alot of what has been said and disagree with some of it also. Opinions are easy to come by, facts are based on random experience, go with your gut, live without fear and go have some fun!
 
90KrawlerXJ said:
Why Would Anyone Weld To Sheetmetal?


because bolting to it suks. jk both methods of attachment have been proven to function just fine. there should be no issue if it's done correctly.
 
Keep us updated on those fatwreck. They look to be very badass. Man more info asap. I actually like these longarms.-------Kyle
 
that'd be my rig that those long arms are on... :)

i'd be happy to answer any questions anyone has about them.. within reason. I can't give out full specification info yet.. not for a couple weeks. i can tell you, specs will be fully released within 2 weeks and product release around the first of december.

there's been so much planning and designing that went into this setup that i feel it's far superior than anything else on the market. once i release specs, it'll be tough to argue it.
 
fatwreck said:
I'll just add one more thing for you guys to argue about. :wave:

...was wondering when you were going to chime in here!

(now they're gonna have to start the poll all over!)
;)
 
Clayton's LAs are built to last... and if they don't- return em for repair or replacement.
go on other forums, and rusty's stuff gets nothing but crap
RE makes some good stuff, but Clayton's is tougher.
 
Could you please elaborate! I'm getting ready to purchase everything to re-do my XJ in the next week. I'll hold out if what you have is quality at a decent price. Do you have a web site or any pics?

Thanks

Gary
 
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