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Ball joints bang for buck..
- Thread starter ShoeterMcgav
- Start date
- Location
- Colorado
Ya ima just get some Spicer ball joints and move on. Thanks for the input.
Doing C gussets with the old ones in should make removal.a little easier- def don't want to do it with the new ball joints... and no joints is asking for trouble too id suspect
Doing C gussets with the old ones in should make removal.a little easier- def don't want to do it with the new ball joints... and no joints is asking for trouble too id suspect
No adjusters, I don't like them anyway since you either have a to spend a LOT of money, buy an inferior product (Performance series), or only get gross changes to both sides of the damping.
Downsouth Motorsports in San Diego valved them. Nearly perfect the first time (maybe less flutter, more gross compression damping, but that's being super picky).
Just make sure there's something to catch the melted grease and watch for fire. Ask me how I know about the former (luckily, didn't experience the latter, but possible).
Getting a bit off topic, but sorta: 2.5 DSC is possible. 2.0 is LSC from what I remember. Either way, the cost is higher and re-valves are free to cheap. 2.5 with DSC is basically 2.0 double bypass cost.
- Location
- Colorado
I saw bleepinjeep or someone burn in the gussets and the ball joints caught on fire... I just don't want tonsizzle new ball joints, more than I'm worried about any distortion
- Location
- Andover, VT
I picked up a full set of Synergy WJ ball joints NIB from a fellow on Jeep Forum for $100. I haven't installed them yet so I cannot comment on longevity, but its another option that hasn't been mentioned.
Pinoy59
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, AZ
I also have Synergy ball joints. No problems yet. Cost me $200 on Amazon.
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- Location
- Colorado
For 100 bucks I'd be all about that synergy too!!
I like the design... and am back tracking on my plans to stick with spicer. The design has basically stayed the same for what, the last 40 years? Longer?
Now I'm deciding if I go Synergy for 2 hundo or save 70 bucks and be an RC guinea pig?
The design is veeeeery similar with the metal on metal HD inner makings-
"a high-precision chromoly ball stud that is oil-quenched, tempered and has spiral grooves to ensure lubrication during intense use. These ball joints are fully greaseable and feature a metal on metal design to provide a longer life span compared to joints featuring plastic or polymer components."
This is from 4wp, the set is for a JK, which is the same upper as all the #j's and same lower as WJs.
I think ima just send it. They are in stock but I'm waiting for C gussets, so time to second guess myself. If I wasn't adding new calipers the coin diff would be more manageable, but the Teeves have finally siezed and are getting properly replaced with akebonos
I like the design... and am back tracking on my plans to stick with spicer. The design has basically stayed the same for what, the last 40 years? Longer?
Now I'm deciding if I go Synergy for 2 hundo or save 70 bucks and be an RC guinea pig?
The design is veeeeery similar with the metal on metal HD inner makings-
"a high-precision chromoly ball stud that is oil-quenched, tempered and has spiral grooves to ensure lubrication during intense use. These ball joints are fully greaseable and feature a metal on metal design to provide a longer life span compared to joints featuring plastic or polymer components."
This is from 4wp, the set is for a JK, which is the same upper as all the #j's and same lower as WJs.
I think ima just send it. They are in stock but I'm waiting for C gussets, so time to second guess myself. If I wasn't adding new calipers the coin diff would be more manageable, but the Teeves have finally siezed and are getting properly replaced with akebonos
Can't you get the calipers on the late model wj's at the salvage yard.
I have to warranty my upper bad ball joint by July. I have the duralast gold in one upper and its holding up.
My drag link track angles are driving me nuts so I think its time. But I want offset tie rod ends first. Then use the tiered to make drag link.
What bearings did you run? Have you made the spacers for the calipers
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I have to warranty my upper bad ball joint by July. I have the duralast gold in one upper and its holding up.
My drag link track angles are driving me nuts so I think its time. But I want offset tie rod ends first. Then use the tiered to make drag link.
What bearings did you run? Have you made the spacers for the calipers
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I am guessing this is ment for me??? I did get my WJ knuckles from the PnP. I bought the spacers. I think JKS the first time. Probably IRO the next time. Others have them. The spacers need to be welded on. They support or center the bearing hub. If the 1/4 bearing spacer is not welded on, then it can move around. Not good, actually dangerous.
I used hub bearings for a 2000-2001 XJ. This gives the proper off set for WJ rotors. You will also need /4 with spacers for the caliper brackets. I think IRO sells some. I used SKF, and Timken hub bearings. I did use F(l)AG bearing on my present build. Actually, I think one was SKF and one F(l)AG. Remove the 'l' from that.
A few alternate this I tried and did and am running. One is I used a 07-08 Liberty rotors. They are about 1/16 less on diameter, but 5 on 4.5 spacing. I ran them for a bout 2 years. Then I changed to a WJ/JK rims and have 5 on 5 on the front. Used a WJ bearing hub. Still need the spacers. I've run this probably 3 years or so.
On my present build, I am using the 07-08 Libby/Nitro Rotors. I am using NAPA Active or is it Reactive rotors and pads, maybe even the Calipers. Previously, I did not have to space out the caliper bracket, with the Libby/Nitro rotors. This time I have to space them out about 1/16", maybe an 1/8" . I used washers from the hardware store.
On the WJ 5 on 5, I did try not to use the 1/4 Knuckle spacers. I wanted to see about a true bolt on. Didn't work. The spacer is needed to keep the axis of the u-joint in line with the axis of the knuckle. It will bind some. Also, the arc of the offset u-joint may or will cause leaks with the seal(s) at the pumpkin. Hope this helps.
Also, from this thread, I think the Tera and Synergy might be a better option(s) than what I tired. Mainly they advertise ball joints without the knurl. The other is I see how they have the grease fittings. Those look more convenient. I do not know why I did not go that route. ???
- Location
- Colorado
75SV1,
Can you explain why not welding the spacer on will allow it to move? Wouldn't the clamping force of the *hub bolts prevent it from moving? I can see welding it for ease of installation, but I'm not seeing how anything can move there.
I run manual hubs with my wj knuckles so rotors are an adventure, I don't even recall which. The teeves don't have caliper spacers or washers. That pulls the caliper in a touch right? What happens with the akebonos if they aren't spaced?
Can you explain why not welding the spacer on will allow it to move? Wouldn't the clamping force of the *hub bolts prevent it from moving? I can see welding it for ease of installation, but I'm not seeing how anything can move there.
I run manual hubs with my wj knuckles so rotors are an adventure, I don't even recall which. The teeves don't have caliper spacers or washers. That pulls the caliper in a touch right? What happens with the akebonos if they aren't spaced?
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The pilot diameter of the Hub bearing unit is not deep enough when you space it out the 1/4" to pilot on the knuckle hub bearing ID. I do not trust the bolts to hold the spacer in place. Also, if you take off the spacer or hub bearing, would the new position of the hub mess up the alignment?? Also, those bolts have treads. So, would they flex any with driving or off-road forces? I don't know. If they do, then threads don't take side forces nicely. I ain't risking it. I think I paid $50-$100 to have the spacers welded on.
I did use the Akebonos on both of mine. I think the Teves will fit in the same bracket. I could be wrong. The bracket that holds the caliper is bolted to the knuckle. Since the spacer was added 1/4", then the rotor offset must be looked at. With the WJ rotors, I think the offset of the hat to the rotor flange is about the same. So, 1/4 washer (spacer) to center the rotor flange. So, what ever rotor is used, and pad thickness etc. the caliper with pads must 'float' or be able to move a bit, when not braking.
With the 07-08 Nitro/Libby rotors, the offset is different. I am not sure why I did not need the 1/6 or 1/8 spacer/washers the first time. It might be that the Reactive rotors were a bit thicker. And or also, I used the anti rattle hardware.
I'm not an expert on brakes. Still, this is my view and what I feel comfortable running on the street.
- Location
- Colorado
I have spacers on my hubs... just not welded. If the bolts flex or change orientation at all, welded or not, the isht is gonna move right? I just can't picture your explanation and saying it is "..dangerous" caught my eye. If those 3 bolts move, break, flex, I don't see the little spacer being any safer being welded than not. When I take it out the axle shafts, and put go to put em back, nothing changes orientation wise... its just harder to line up the holes LOL. I can weld em, and maybe I will. Just don't think it is as needed as you do. As for safety? Recommending new hub to knuckle bolts OEM and with threadlock would make more sense to me.
With the manual hubs and different rotor setup (I wanna say they are freaking YJ rotors?), I guess I'll just have to see how it goes.
The teeves and akebono caliper brackets are today different... but luckily bolt up to the knuckle in the exact same spot. Point being, if you are going from one to the other you need caliper brackets with the calipers, both will bolt up to all year WJ knuckles tho
With the manual hubs and different rotor setup (I wanna say they are freaking YJ rotors?), I guess I'll just have to see how it goes.
The teeves and akebono caliper brackets are today different... but luckily bolt up to the knuckle in the exact same spot. Point being, if you are going from one to the other you need caliper brackets with the calipers, both will bolt up to all year WJ knuckles tho
OK, then why do people insist on using Hub Centric spacers? It is basically the same. The Hub bearing unit locates diameter OD to ID with the knuckle. The depth of that OD is roughly 1/4". With the bearing spacer being 1/4", then the hub bearing is held by the spacer. The spacer is held either by the weld or the 3 bolts. The bolts will or should have about .010" clearance to the bolt holes. So, they are not going to hold the position of the spacer plate that way. You are relying on the surface area of the bolt caps and the torque and friction of that area of 3 bolts. Add in vibration, threads as a stress riser and a hardened steel part (grade 8 or 8+ bolt), then again braking dynamics.
- Location
- Colorado
I'm not debating the need for the spacer...
But with your logic, for a normal WJ setup that doesn't require said spacer, the same 3 bolts hold the hub on right? I guess I still don't see how sandwiching something in the middle changes the dynamics making it "unsafe"?
Do.you also weld the washers to the hub for the caliper?
But with your logic, for a normal WJ setup that doesn't require said spacer, the same 3 bolts hold the hub on right? I guess I still don't see how sandwiching something in the middle changes the dynamics making it "unsafe"?
Do.you also weld the washers to the hub for the caliper?
