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Axle Shims, Newbie's searches inadequate

XJsurf said:
I have a quick question. This weekend I upgraded my leafs from an RE 3.5 to the 4.5. Now I believe that I have 2.5 shims on the rear. Do they need to be increase due to the height change?? I also have a sye with a cv shaft. Is there still a need for shims??
Well you want to get the pinion pointed as close to the direction of your TC tail shaft as possible. If that means a shim, then yes. You would put the thick side to the back for sure. That angles the pinion up.
 
Okay, the final results are in!! DO NOT use the transmmisiion pan to take measurements! DO NOT use the transmision pan to take measurements!

Whoever recommended that should be severely beat about the head and shoulders!

It isn't needed but, I checked the floor and it was on both axis.

Valve cover angled down to rear differential
Transmission pan
NP242 drain plug angled down to rear differential
fill plug angled down to rear differential
spreader hole on 8.25" angled up towards the TC output

It's close now and with the the shims that is ordered it will give me the 3° that GoJeep recommends if, I install them fat end to the rear. In the event that doesn't cure it then, I'll just remove the TC drop (gain an inch ground clearance) and the shims and I am still within 1°

Thanks for being patient with me boise49ers, Gojeep, ZacSquatch, Nickel101 and BlueCuda. I had asked a few questions before after performing searches and was royally flamed. I think one of the flamers recommended the transmission pan as a measuring location now that I think about it :)
 
F9K9 said:
Okay, the final results are in!! DO NOT use the transmmisiion pan to take measurements! DO NOT use the transmision pan to take measurements!

Whoever recommended that should be severely beat about the head and shoulders!

It isn't needed but, I checked the floor and it was on both axis.

Valve cover angled down to rear differential
Transmission pan
NP242 drain plug angled down to rear differential
fill plug angled down to rear differential
spreader hole on 8.25" angled up towards the TC output

It's close now and with the the shims that is ordered it will give me the 3° that GoJeep recommends if, I install them fat end to the rear. In the event that doesn't cure it then, I'll just remove the TC drop (gain an inch ground clearance) and the shims and I am still within 1°

Thanks for being patient with me boise49ers, Gojeep, ZacSquatch, Nickel101 and BlueCuda. I had asked a few questions before after performing searches and was royally flamed. I think one of the flamers recommended the transmission pan as a measuring location now that I think about it :)
It is the only way to learn and the guys who jump in just to slam guys trying to learn do the entire site a dis-service. These sites are basically made to help , not build egos. Good Luck !
Send us PMs when you get it built. See yuh !
 
I know that I have posted in this thread, I am having a issue as well but reading more then adding my unknowing opinion has helped worlds. I would also like to thank all who have offered insite. I am going to order some 2* shims and install thick side front, which if I have paid attention should get me back on track. Again thanks a ton.
 
CHUGLYxj said:
I know that I have posted in this thread, I am having a issue as well but reading more then adding my unknowing opinion has helped worlds. I would also like to thank all who have offered insite. I am going to order some 2* shims and install thick side front, which if I have paid attention should get me back on track. Again thanks a ton.
Am glad we both learned something. I appreciate your comments, as well :)
 
I must also say that I am sorry for not mentioning that I was ignoring the transmission pan measurement. Just I have done so many of these and have always as a matter of course fitted a 2* shim with thin side forward when dropping a transfercase. ( if you lessen one uni angle, you must lessen the other the same amount ) But it seems some leaf springs some how alter the pinion angle differently to others.
Still the stock difference of a 3 degree difference so that both unis are at the same angle when the pinion lifts under acceleration should be followed.
 
Gojeep said:
I must also say that I am sorry for not mentioning...................

No need to! Not much that you could do would ever upset me. I spent my R&R in OZ during a long ago unpopular conflict after working with your military's advisers. Hands down the greatest people that I have ever met. I can sincerely look back and say that was one of my better five days spent but, probably was my best five days of my life.
 
F9K9 said:
No need to! Not much that you could do would ever upset me. I spent my R&R in OZ during a long ago unpopular conflict after working with your military's advisers. Hands down the greatest people that I have ever met. I can sincerely look back and say that was one of my better five days spent but, probably was my best five days of my life.

Always nice to hear. :)
 
Hay guys, This is what i did ,or am still doing i should say. With the driveline out, my transfer case shaft comes to 3 degrees,pointing downwards of course.
My pinion yoke came to 5 degrees,pointing upwards.

i installed 2.5 degree shims so my pinion yoke is now at 2.5 degrees pointing up instead of 5 degrees up.

Still has vibes,mostly but not all on accelerating,it dont sound good at all.

So,do i install 4 degree shims so the pinion will be at 1 degree pointing up and therfore about 3 degrees under power or what to do ??

called the driveline shops here and also asked a lot of people which way does the pinion move under power anyways ?? What a learning experiance i got i will say,and from people that should know i thought. Holy Cow !!
 
F9K9 said:
Thanks for being patient with me boise49ers, Gojeep, ZacSquatch, Nickel101 and BlueCuda. I had asked a few questions before after performing searches and was royally flamed. I think one of the flamers recommended the transmission pan as a measuring location now that I think about it :)

:soapbox:

the flamers SUCK, they have been the least helpful here, constantly redirecting us newbs to "do your search" and smart assed replies. It's developed an atmosphere of disclaimers and I've found many threads that start out "i've searched, but..." and get so busy trying to keep the flaming down that they barely get to the point of the thread. Flamers (you know who you are) either help a guy out, or STFU! that's my humble opinion

RANT OVER

this has been a great thread and I've re-read it numberous times, I'd say thanks again to all those that did help...
 
BTT! This thread is still helping me since I have just now gotten my 2° shims from ROCKY ROAD and trying to remember what all that I learned and how to apply it. My vibes are so slight now that I question installing them but, I may as well just to see what happens and to pass on the results.

I hate threads that just end without the originator passing on what happened and if, the suggestions worked. It certainly doesn't hurt to post what did and didn't work and to give the members that assisted you a heartfelt "thank you"!

Reed
 
F9K9 said:
Okay, the final results are in!! DO NOT use the transmmisiion pan to take measurements! DO NOT use the transmision pan to take measurements!

Whoever recommended that should be severely beat about the head and shoulders!

It isn't needed but, I checked the floor and it was on both axis.

Valve cover angled down to rear differential
Transmission pan
NP242 drain plug angled down to rear differential
fill plug angled down to rear differential
spreader hole on 8.25" angled up towards the TC output

It's close now and with the the shims that is ordered it will give me the 3° that GoJeep recommends if, I install them fat end to the rear. In the event that doesn't cure it then, I'll just remove the TC drop (gain an inch ground clearance) and the shims and I am still within 1°

Thanks for being patient with me boise49ers, Gojeep, ZacSquatch, Nickel101 and BlueCuda. I had asked a few questions before after performing searches and was royally flamed. I think one of the flamers recommended the transmission pan as a measuring location now that I think about it :)

The transmission pan is okay to use, just use the pan flange, not the pan bottom. This is the same angle (slope) as the TC, and the valve cover.
 
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