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aw 4 tranny problems

posa88xj said:
yes i did replace them.... and i guess I will check the wiring next. from the motor side of the tranny, what is the posistion of the solenoids. is number 1 up front then 2 then 3, or are they not in order?
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There are TWO types of solenoids. Two of the three work one way, the third--the TC lockup solenoid--is different.
 
Sounds like time to measure the fluid pressure. Do a search online and download a AW4 manual. There is a troubleshoot tree that you should follow.
 
old_man said:
Sounds like time to measure the fluid pressure. Do a search online and download a AW4 manual. There is a troubleshoot tree that you should follow.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking he needs to resolve why one solenoid is measuring 1.5 ohms. The symptoms correspond to that solenoid being bad as well.
 
well i cleaned the nss and tht helped the slow start and its now going thro the gears when i start off in drive, I also cleaned the switch on the brake pedal out too....I retested the solenoids and they all tested 14.8ish to 15 ohms.
 
Ok hijack, but I feel it belongs here. My buddies xj wont shift until about 3500 rpms but then drops down to about 1k. We tried manually shifting with the tcu unplugged and when it was in 1/2 it wouldn't shift into 2. When moved to three it would shift gears then when moved into drive it wouldnt shift. So I believe his "A" solenoid is bad but I haven't it's resistance checked. If it is low should I just go ahead and buy all three solenoids includings the tc lockup?
 
praetorian said:
Ok hijack, but I feel it belongs here. My buddies xj wont shift until about 3500 rpms but then drops down to about 1k. We tried manually shifting with the tcu unplugged and when it was in 1/2 it wouldn't shift into 2. When moved to three it would shift gears then when moved into drive it wouldnt shift. So I believe his "A" solenoid is bad but I haven't it's resistance checked. If it is low should I just go ahead and buy all three solenoids includings the tc lockup?
Click to expand...

With the TCU unplugged you only get 1st in 1-2; 3rd in 3; 4th in D; reverse, neutral, park. If you aren't getting that result you have a hydraulic/mechanical issue. If you are getting that result your issue is electrical in nature.

You left out the year/engine--the BASICS.

TPS--tested? Post up the numbers. If yours is an 87-90 did you try to adjust the TPS?

Throttle pressure cable--did you adjust it?

Condition of the transmission fluid?

Do your reverse lights work when the shifter is in the "reverse" position?

Post up.
 
my problem now is when i reach 45 or so mph i lose my tranny, its like it goes into nutral, when i slow down to 30ish it goes back into gear, and when im in 3rd gear its running at 3k + rpms to get up to 50mph....i tested all the slinoids and they were all rite at 16ohms.
 
Ok, did you ever do the flush?

About a week ago you were missing 3rd and 4th when the TCU was unplugged. That indicates a hydraulic or mechanical problem with the transmission, not an electrical issue.
 
i just did a power flush tonite after work, with little or no noticeable results. I unplugged the tps and the other sensor on the throttle body, and undid the throttle valve cable, and I don't lose my gear like i do with all that plugged in. with it all unplugged I revs up high but it shifts and when i let off the gas, it loses the gear but after i rev up more it grabs the gear again....all of this the engine is around 3500 to 4000 rpms
 
posa88xj said:
i just did a power flush tonite after work, with little or no noticeable results. I unplugged the tps and the other sensor on the throttle body, and undid the throttle valve cable, and I don't lose my gear like i do with all that plugged in. with it all unplugged I revs up high but it shifts and when i let off the gas, it loses the gear but after i rev up more it grabs the gear again....all of this the engine is around 3500 to 4000 rpms
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Unhooking the throttle valve cable will play hell with the tranny. IT will either shift really high or fail to shift at all.
 
OK, my tranny has the power and comfort switch in it. i just remembered that when it all started i had my tranny in power mode. and i just tried driving it tonight in power mode and it was responding better, but would still lose the gear eventually, but i would shift it down to 3rd manually then back to drive and I would get the gear back. is there a way to bypass or diag the power/comfort switch? would this have anything to do with any of my problems?
 
an update, i pulled the tps off and with it plugged it if I move the lever with my finger it makes the engine sputter, its done it with two different tps's that i have, both used....that can't be normal that spot where it makes the engine sputter..right?
also when i adjust the tps to what i think is close enough, within a couple tenths of a volt to what it is suppose to be, when i start up the jeep then its idling at 3000 rpms. I can not get it close to spec without that happening...does that sound like its a bad tps then?
 
Have you verified all the engine grounds? In particular the braided ground strap that runs from the back of the valve cover to the firewall? Just skimming back and looking at everything, a bad firewall-engine ground could contribute to a number of these odd problems.
 
yes I have, I ordered a tps today from my local parts guy, since it seems with the tps disconnected there is no change at all like there would be if all was well with the tps. I'll post up my results tomorrow after I pick it up and install it.
 
posa88xj said:
yes I have, I ordered a tps today from my local parts guy, since it seems with the tps disconnected there is no change at all like there would be if all was well with the tps. I'll post up my results tomorrow after I pick it up and install it.
Click to expand...

It's tomorrow.
 
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