Matt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hobart, WA
vintagespeed said:Thanks Matt, great info for a Rockwell Newbie like myself. I've got some stuff to chew on now. Things I definitely dont want to do, run hubs out with adapters, shorten housing.
If I were to scrap the idea of keeping my wheels (cry) would it be worthwhile to make up some new hubs to relocate the wms further from the knuckle to allow room for wheel brakes without running the hubs out?
I will have to correct myself - your measurement of 9.75 is pretty good- just eyeballing the tape tonight that seems correct it is just over 11.5" from the center of the tube and what I said about a pinon brake still holds kinda true as the pinion center is 4.5" from the top of diff- with a 10" rotor that gives a total height of ~11" with some breathing room above the top of the axle tube (not accounting for a caliper for the pinion brake...
If you leave the hubs out the wheel mount flange is only 1/2" or so from where the drive flange begins (this puts your wms distance to 79.5") with the hubs in you have the flange back on the hub about 5" and your shortened wms distance is now 69.5"...
As for brakes if you leave the hubs out you can use the OEM drums (heavy) or one of the slightly cheaper disc kits - or home brew a kit as you have 5" to play with and the knuckle normally has studs for the 12 holes on the spindle and also secures the drum backing place and spindle with one nut per stud...
I think it is do able but you can get into the same $$ ballpark by not accepting the standard (OEM'ish) set up of the rockwells and trying to adapt them to 3/4 ton and 1 ton truck parts (rims and brakes mainly) Think trail rig, pinion brake, hubs in, shaved bowl, hydro steering and go with it
Otherwise - my XJ lives just fine with warn alloys, ctm's (all in a D30 housing with D44 outers) running 38.5x14.50 SX's on 15x10 rockcrawlers (a 1.25" wheel spacer per side to clear my steering arms too!) for the last 18 months
HTH
Matt