Double check your ball joints. The effect of a worn ball joint is often the same as toe-out and the tire wear will be the same.
You can get a good basic check by jacking up one side by the axle beam, just enough to get some space under a tire. Then get a big lever, and push upward on the tire. Look for up-down movement at the knuckle, as well as side play. There should be none. I think by '92 Jeep had gone to the new style ball joints, and on these the upper joint is meant to move up and down (early ones used an adjustable shim), so do not be alarmed by a little gap in the grease seal at the top. All vertical movement in the later ones is controlled by the bottom joint.
While the wheel is up, make sure the wheel bearings are good, and that the u-joints aren't binding. No play allowed in the bearings. Crank the steering over all one way, and rotate the wheel to check for a binding u-joiint. All these things can mess up an alignment.
If you haven't yet, get a second person to wiggle the steering wheel while you observe underneath carefully. Some things can be hard to feel or spot when working alone.
Also make sure you rotate tires, because tires will follow an old wear pattern even after realigning. Some tires will give you a dead feeling on center, and will seem to be poorly aligned when they aren't, and play in the steering box will amplify this.
Double check your measurements, and make sure you are measuring from a line on the tread, not from tire edges or sidewalls, which can be off. If you're unfamiliar with this method, you raise the wheel an inch or so, get a big piece of chalk, rotate a wheel on it, so that you have a chalk mark all around the tread. Then drive a nail partway into a block of wood and snip the head off. With the block on the ground, rotate the wheel and press the nail into the tread. You'll end up with a precise line on each tread. Measure from the lines.