a few questions about suspension

[jeep/bronco]

i have 88 xj on 32's trimmed fenders shackles in the rear that are adjustable upcountry springs and tereflex spacers for the front. im thinking this should net me about 4 inches of lift now for the questions. i talked to a local 4 wd shop and they are trying to sell me bds shocks which are pretty cheap 152 for the set they are for 4-6 inch lift also a drop pitman arm for 64.00. i know i need the shocks but is the pitman arm needed for such a small lift. and another thing they push the lockrites pretty hard but i have heard of them blowing up pretty easily what kind of experiences have yall had with them. ive heard the oxlockers are very reliable but they are also 800 bucks vs 270.00

 

[mk153smaw]

Ox is good, you have to pay for good.

 

[SCupstateXJ]

Which axle do you have in the rear? If you have the beloved D35, you will break the shafts before the Lockrite gives up. If you have a D44, I hate you .

As for the pitman arm, IDK. If you need to replace it I remember seeing a post somewhere about using the pitman arm off of another vehicle, but I can't remember the specifics..

3.5" lift is not that extreme. How does it handle? I have a friend that runs a 3.5" RE lift on 32's and he has a stock pitman arm. His is an 88 also.

 

[jeep/bronco]

i have the 35 in the rear im not gonna lock it up yet not until i swap in a 8.25 and a pitman arm off a tj is 1" drop but im not sure if thats enough

 

[SCupstateXJ]

i have the 35 in the rear im not gonna lock it up yet not until i swap in a 8.25 and a pitman arm off a tj is 1" drop but im not sure if thats enough

I was thinking it was off a WJ or some specific Ford truck. Not sure which. Usually I remember these things, but I guess I'm still feeling the effects of the turkey from yesterday. :laugh:

 

[cal]

i have the 35 in the rear im not gonna lock it up yet not until i swap in a 8.25 and a pitman arm off a tj is 1" drop but im not sure if thats enough

You install a drop pitman arm to let your draglink match the angle of some aftermarket trackbars (such as rubicon express or rusty's).

What trackbar are you running?

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

You do not need, or want the drop pitman arm. In most cases, they throw off your steering geometry and cause bumpsteer. This is unless you drop the trackbar the same amount. Basically...you want your trackbar and your draglink to be parallel.

There's nothing wrong with a lockright, I prefer an Aussie where available though. As mentioned, don't lock the 35, but I guess you have that one figured out. What 8.25 are you putting in? If it's a 29 spline, your "cheap" locker choices are more limited.

At 4", you will need an adjustable trackbar to re-center the front axle. You may be able to get by with re-drilling the axle mount to relocate it, but in the end, you will want/need an adjustable.

 

[RCP Phx]

You install a drop pitman arm to let your draglink match the angle of some aftermarket trackbars (such as rubicon express or rusty's).

What trackbar are you running?

The RE bracket "IS NOT" a drop bracket,it mounts the joint exactly as stock.

 

[cal]

The RE bracket "IS NOT" a drop bracket,it mounts the joint exactly as stock.

1) it drops .5". I measured? The next time I'm tearing down a stock rig I'll measure again just to be sure.

2) as it happens, i was talking about the RE1600, with its horizontally mounted rod end, which with stock steering you will get 'proper' angles with a ZJ pitman arm. I should have specified that, but was waiting for more information.

 

[RCP Phx]

1) it drops .5". I measured? The next time I'm tearing down a stock rig I'll measure again just to be sure.

2) as it happens, i was talking about the RE1600, with its horizontally mounted rod end, which with stock steering you will get 'proper' angles with a ZJ pitman arm. I should have specified that, but was waiting for more information.

You have to measure with the joint on,the centers come out exactly the same!
BTW-the 1600 mounts vertical,I was refering to the 1660 which mounts horizontally!

 

[cal]

I was thinking the rod end horizontal, not the bolt.

The reason I said "tearing down a stock" .. is that I was going to pivot the stock track bar only connected at one end, and pivot an RE one down, measure from the pivot to the frame.

I'll admit that you may well be right, but I still think I am.

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

RCP Phx is the man who designed and built the XJ back in the day. You have to go through him before posting..................

 

[xalexjx]

i run lock-rites front and rear and dont have any problems, but if you have the money go for the ox.

 

[tbburg]

'Put 50K miles on a CJ (AMC-20) with a rear lock-rite. Never had a problem. A friend blew up a lock-rite in a rear D-44 on his first trip out (in a TJ, on rock)
I think they're good for light/medium use. If you want to play hard in the rocks, get an ox/detroit/etc.

Having said that, my latest is a desert/trail rig, And I'm springing for Detroits f/r

 

[jeep/bronco]

i thought detroits run on the same principle as a lock rite? so no drop pitman arm just a new track bar?

 

[jakec]

A full Detroit replaces the entire carrier, whereas the lockright is a lunbox locker, and fits inside the carrier. The Detroit is very beefy.