Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
-
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98 XJ Limited
- Thread starter Ghost
- Start date
yeah, its the badge/decal, it was supposed to be placed in the rear driver side window by the spare tire, but was often overlooked and forgotten, very few have it.
Also few GCs also got the Upcountry package as well, but they usually got the decal.
The rear sway was deleted as part of the package so...
Also few GCs also got the Upcountry package as well, but they usually got the decal.
The rear sway was deleted as part of the package so...
That's a sweet deal, my brother got really freaking lucky and got a 1996 upcountry for $800, only thing it needed was a water pump and a fan clutch\
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Ok So I finally got some things straight financially and am ready to get this on the road. It's been sitting with a no start issue. Checked the CPS and it showed resistance so I replaced it. It appears the Fuel pump is not coming on. I swapped the relays with the starter and that did nothing. It doesn't appear as though the relay is getting the electrical signal to engage. Tim gave me a cd for this year but I cannot seem to find it atm. I'm going to check this CPS after work and see if it is doing the same thing. I bought it new from Rock Auto. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Bypass the relay in the PDC and see if it'll start that way.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
From what I could tell last night with the little bit I did I could not hear the fuel pump running. However, the relay would not "energize" at all. I need to see if the one I opened will work with the starter then go from there.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
If the fuel system is up to pressure when the key is turned the fuel pump isn't going to run at all.
The first thing I'd do is check fuel pressure at the rail to be sure it's a fuel issue.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Fuel pressure is a non issue when there is no spark. New CPS and its doing the same thing it was with the old CPS. Turns over and cranks but doesn't spark. The fuel pump relay is not engaging and there is no spark. Thoughts?
highspeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Owens Cross Roads, Alabama
Bad ecu?
Jump time possibly? If the cam is out of phase it may not fire or let fuel inj work either. Just spit balling
Jump time possibly? If the cam is out of phase it may not fire or let fuel inj work either. Just spit balling
Georgia Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flowery Branch,GA
Have you had the coil tested? Are you getting a pulsed ground to it? The coil should have two wires, one is positive (only on with ignition) and a ground, but the ground will not (or should not) be present with a static, non-running engine. Look up your wiring diagram to find the trigger wire. Set your multi-meter to continuity and probe that wire. If you have a meter that beeps with continuity, you'll hear a series of short beeps with each pulse when attempting to start the engine (this is the signal that the CPS provides). If you get no signal on either wire you're not going to fire the coil. If you do have the signal, you may have a bad coil.
As for the fuel pump, you can try running a straight wire to the underbody harness to see if you can make it run without worrying about the ECU getting in the way. At least this way you can tell if the pump will actually run.
These are just a few ideas I've come up with along the way that worked for me. I'm sure somewhere out there there's an ASE mechanic laughing at my shade-tree methods :laugh:
As for the fuel pump, you can try running a straight wire to the underbody harness to see if you can make it run without worrying about the ECU getting in the way. At least this way you can tell if the pump will actually run.
These are just a few ideas I've come up with along the way that worked for me. I'm sure somewhere out there there's an ASE mechanic laughing at my shade-tree methods :laugh:
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Pull the coil and have a look. Same thing I just went through on the zj at work and found a severely cracked coil.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
This connector has some messed up wires on it and I wonder if its not part of the problem:
It's grey with four wires coming out of it and one wire is larger then the rest. It connects by the PDC and looks like it runs into the starter loom. If I understand you right Mike and I understand the wire diagrams I got from Tim the coil does not have a 12v supply with the ignition on.
It's grey with four wires coming out of it and one wire is larger then the rest. It connects by the PDC and looks like it runs into the starter loom. If I understand you right Mike and I understand the wire diagrams I got from Tim the coil does not have a 12v supply with the ignition on.
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
This connector has some messed up wires on it and I wonder if its not part of the problem:
It's grey with four wires coming out of it and one wire is larger then the rest. It connects by the PDC and looks like it runs into the starter loom. If I understand you right Mike and I understand the wire diagrams I got from Tim the coil does not have a 12v supply with the ignition on.
On the ZJ I was working on last week, I had voltage going to the coil both with ignition on and while cranking. I only had a test light, not a multimeter, so I don't have exact numbers and don't remember off hand if it's 12V in both cases, or starts lower and steps up as the engine is turning over. Either way, ignition on, you should have voltage going to the coil, and definitely while cranking.
Pull the connector off the coil and check for voltage. That will tell you right there if you're losing it before the coil, or at the coil. If you've got no voltage coming to the coil, then the problem lies deeper (wiring harness, ASD relay...etc).
Can't really tell what that plug is from your picture...any more details on where it goes to? I can try and trace it on mine and see where it leads, but it'd be mid week before I have a chance.
Georgia Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flowery Branch,GA
Solid advice.
Look at your wiring diagram and trace the + coil lead origin point. When you find that point test for voltage there. If you have no voltage at the coil, but have power at the origin point that's a good thing. It should mean it's just a bad wire. If not you could have a blown fuse or a bad relay somewhere, or as UNCC said the ASD relay could be the culprit but I think if that were the case it would let the engine run for a couple of seconds then shut down, not 100% on that though. But for now, what I would attempt (and I'm not suggesting you do it *wink-wink-nudge-nudge*) would be to tap into the + wire at the coil with a FUSED 14 ga power wire just to see if the engine would fire. But again, I'm sure there's an ASE mechanic cringing at that thought lol
Georgia Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flowery Branch,GA
Oh, a quick question....have you reinstalled the gauge panel and any wiring that may have been unhooked in the interior? Another thing to check may also be the ignition switch itself. make sure you're getting voltage out on all the correct wires. Not sure which ones should do what on those models but I've seen other cars with similar style switches have a no-start issue when the switch goes bad even though it would still operate the starter motor.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
All relays have been swapped with the starter relay. They all work. I have no voltage at the coil at all. Used a test light and the volt meter there. I know the FP relay is not clicking on. Is the ASD relay suppose to click on too? If so I know that is not happening either. I just put a CPS in it from Rock auto thinking that was the culprit. This is frustrating.
Georgia Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flowery Branch,GA
Yes I'm sure it is. I've been where you are right now and I know how you feel, but the last thing you want to do right now is start aiming the parts cannon at it, even though its tempting to do so. Trace that power wire to its starting point and go from there. Is it at the PCM? Underhood fuse panel? It could really be something as simple as a bad wire, or as frustrating to diagnose as a bad PCM. From what I've read, the anti-theft system should allow the engine to run a few seconds then shut it down on its own if its tripped, but I have no first hand experience with that issue.
Also when you turn the key to the KOEO position do you see the check engine light?
Also when you turn the key to the KOEO position do you see the check engine light?
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
No CEL when key is in its on position. What about a scan tool? I have been putting off buying one. Good idea now? Tracing that wire as in pull the harness and remove the plastic shielding? I was looking at wiring diagrams last night and let me tell you that shit is confusing. :shocked: :banghead:
Georgia Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flowery Branch,GA
If you have no CEL in KOEO position that is an indication of a bad PCM, or hopefully it's just a burnt bulb. Scan tools are a great tool to have. I bought one back around '06-'07 and have yet to regret that investment.
As for tracing the wire, studying the wiring diagram is going to be the least invasive way to do it. You can pull the harness apart but all you've done at that point is created a mess if its not a bad wire. I'd try and study the diagram a bit harder. Google "wiring diagram legends" to get a feel for what the symbols on the diagram mean and it should help you out a little more.
As for tracing the wire, studying the wiring diagram is going to be the least invasive way to do it. You can pull the harness apart but all you've done at that point is created a mess if its not a bad wire. I'd try and study the diagram a bit harder. Google "wiring diagram legends" to get a feel for what the symbols on the diagram mean and it should help you out a little more.
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
A scanner is a must for any at home mechanic with obd2 vehicles in their fleet. Decent ones can be had for $50 or so these days.
