95 xj, no start.

[Kreutz]

have you checked the ignition module?

 

[xuv-this]

that's wierd. the fuel pump is turned on by the starter relay/puter. i would haul it to the stealership if i could and get them to "take a gander at it". -not replace anything, just try to diagnose it.

 

[junkxj]

that's wierd. the fuel pump is turned on by the starter relay/puter. i would haul it to the stealership if i could and get them to "take a gander at it". -not replace anything, just try to diagnose it.

I have asked several people at the dealership about this problem, and they had no idea where to start looking for the problem. I would hate to haul it over there, them mess with it for a few days and charge me some crazy amount of money to tell me they can't fix it. If I thought there was anyway they could fix it, I would be glad to pay. As for the Ignition module, can they cause this type of problem? And how do I check it? Thanks for the help, keep the ideas coming.

 

[Kreutz]

The ignition module is located under the ignition coil (on a '90, not sure about '95). Just take it off, and take it to autozone. They can test it for you. It's worth a shot, because if it's not working right, it won't start.

 

[badge714]

believe the 95 uses just the coil,directly to dist. have you had the distributor removed from engine. can you hear the fuel pump click when you turn key on. it will click for 3-5 seconds to prime fuel rail. have you chenged the crankshaft position sensor on the bellhousing. give me a holler i have somethings & sheets that maybe of help. any extra info will behelpful. [email protected]

 

[junkxj]

believe the 95 uses just the coil,directly to dist. have you had the distributor removed from engine. can you hear the fuel pump click when you turn key on. it will click for 3-5 seconds to prime fuel rail. have you chenged the crankshaft position sensor on the bellhousing. give me a holler i have somethings & sheets that maybe of help. any extra info will behelpful. [email protected]

Thanks alot for the help man! My XJ is a 92, not a 95. I was trying to help the guy who started the thread because it sounded like he had the same problem as me. To restate my problems so anyone with any other ideas will be able to help.

My jeep had been sitting for a while after I broke something in the rearend. I had deciced not to fix what ever it was in the rearend, but build something stronger. It has taken me a little longer to put another rearend together than I had planned on. Anyway, after my jeep had sat for about a month I hooked the battery back up and tried to start it. Of course the factory alarm came on. I tried to disable it as I always had by using the key to unlock the rear hatch. This did nothing. I spent two weeks trying to find out how to diable the factory alarm, and tried every thing I could find. After working on it a while the alarm shut off. I asummed I had found the right wire to ground to turn the alarm off. The jeep would still not start. There is spark to the plugs sometimes, the injectors work sometimes (does have good fuel pressure when the fuel pump is working), and the fuel pump works some times. I used a jump pack to run the fuel pump all of the time, and used a jump wire to make sure the coil had power all of the time. With this still nothing. I can get it to run somewhat with starting fluid part of the time, but most of the time it does nothing. After trying to disable the alarm I have asummed that the problem was something diffrent. The jeep shows no codes, and I am about to order a computer from a jeep without the factory security system. It is hard for me to belive that the random way diffrent things work and then don't work could be anything diffrent than the security system trying to keep me from stealing my own jeep. If anyone has any diffrent ideas let me know.

 

[xuv-this]

also, i believe there might be a factory "security module" under the dash, as well. you would have to take that out , too. 91-95 is all basically the same stuff.

 

[junkxj]

also, i believe there might be a factory "security module" under the dash, as well. you would have to take that out , too. 91-95 is all basically the same stuff.

If there is something like this, I have yet to find it. I found a small black box with velcro (Spelling?) holding it under the dash, but it does nothing diffrent when I unplug it. From what I have found out, there is no box or anything else like that that can be pulled to disable the factory security system. If I am wrong in this asumtion please let me know?

 

[xuv-this]

if it's under the drivers side,and it's not a relay box, that's what it is. you need to take it out. see, this chryco stuff was engineered differently. the governer is tied into different chips in the system. like the security crap.

 

[Nevada City Sparky]

OK, Mine's a 89 with a similar problem. All new ignition stuff. Engine cranks fine, I can hear the fuel pump working for 3 seconds while cranking, then it goes off. No pressure at fuel rail, but it will dribble a bit after an initial cranking (not squirt from scrader valve, but kind of a pfst and then a little dribble less than a 1/4 tsp.)

Sounds like Cam or Crankshaft Position sensor from what I read here. Ignition module was replaced just B4 I got it. So, which to replace first? By the way, its got 185K miles.

This has been an intermitant problem, coming and going. If its gonna start, it does on the first crank. If it doesn't start, it usually will later, although right now its dead.

I'd replace the fuel pump, but the last time I did that on a car (Landcruiser tank removal) I burned my house down (big boom), so I'd just assume look for alternatives.

 

[xuv-this]

OK, Mine's a 89 with a similar problem. All new ignition stuff. Engine cranks fine, I can hear the fuel pump working for 3 seconds while cranking, then it goes off. No pressure at fuel rail, but it will dribble a bit after an initial cranking (not squirt from scrader valve, but kind of a pfst and then a little dribble less than a 1/4 tsp.)

Sounds like Cam or Crankshaft Position sensor from what I read here. Ignition module was replaced just B4 I got it. So, which to replace first? By the way, its got 185K miles.

This has been an intermitant problem, coming and going. If its gonna start, it does on the first crank. If it doesn't start, it usually will later, although right now its dead.

I'd replace the fuel pump, but the last time I did that on a car (Landcruiser tank removal) I burned my house down (big boom), so I'd just assume look for alternatives.

if you have no press. @ the rail, it's the pump or a bad wire or relay. tap into the wire to the pump. if it has power, it's the pump. the injector(s) are controlled by those sensors, not the pump.

 

[langer1]

where is cam positon sensor located?
Inside the Distributor

 

[langer1]

Also before I bought a new computer,I would get a new remote.

 

[Nevada City Sparky]

if you have no press. @ the rail, it's the pump or a bad wire or relay. tap into the wire to the pump. if it has power, it's the pump. the injector(s) are controlled by those sensors, not the pump.

I checked it this morning quickly before coming to work. Didn't check rail pressure, but when I turned key to "ON" position I got the requisite 3 second pump spin. I'm thinking one of these sensors is shot, either Cam or Crankshaft. From what I read here, if the positioner isn't working, it cuts off the fuel pump. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[langer1]

I checked it this morning quickly before coming to work. Didn't check rail pressure, but when I turned key to "ON" position I got the requisite 3 second pump spin. I'm thinking one of these sensors is shot, either Cam or Crankshaft. From what I read here, if the positioner isn't working, it cuts off the fuel pump. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

No it don't

 

[langer1]

When you first crank the engine the ECU sets timing buy counting pulses from the CPS and then turns the coil, injectors on and the fuel pump back on.

You need to check for spark and fuel pressure when cranking, if you don’t have spark check CPS and cam position sensor in the distributor.

 

[Nevada City Sparky]

When you first crank the engine the ECU sets timing buy counting pulses from the CPS and then turns the coil, injectors on and the fuel pump back on.

You need to check for spark and fuel pressure when cranking, if you don’t have spark check CPS and cam position sensor in the distributor.

OK, think I got it. So, if I have no spark, chances are its one of these sensors. If I do have spark, likely a weak fuel pump. Make sense?

 

[langer1]

OK, think I got it. So, if I have no spark, chances are its one of these sensors. If I do have spark, likely a weak fuel pump. Make sense?

Yes but don't jump to the fuel pump as the problem, you have to think fuel problem, several things can cause no/low pressure. Could just be a plugged filter or busted hose.

 

[Nevada City Sparky]

Yes but don't jump to the fuel pump as the problem, you have to think fuel problem, several things can cause no/low pressure. Could just be a plugged filter or busted hose.

Got it. Thanks. Yep, definately will check the lines.

As mentioned before, the last thing I want to do is crack into the tank. Last time I did, it went boom. I can't afford to burn down another house, so if its the pump, its going to the shop.

 

[xuv-this]

heres what needs to happen(if you already haven't done it) the pump is working. now turn on ignition, check rail press. if it just drips out, buy a new fuel filter. if it still has no press' it's the pump getting ready to quit. if you have press. and the motor turns, it's prob. a sensor. also, chiltons manuals have a check procedure for these sensors. if the cps tests ok. it's prob. the cam sensor. if it is the cam sens, the injectors won't fire. the cps doesn't control those.
also, the fuel pump is not hard to change safely. you can do it out side. the battery, puter need to be removed, AND THE VEHICLE GROUNDED TO THE GROUND IN 2 PLACES - the batt. ground and the body. then just take the whole unit from the tank, put duct tape over the hole. hang the unit outside for a day or so to dry out. then put the new pump in, and re install with grounds still attached.