93 XJ difficult to put in 1st gear

[Keesie]

Hello,

I have got a 93 XJ, with a 2.5 backed by a mannual 5 speed.
When the car stands still, it is difficult to put it in first gear.
You must then try third or fifth first to get it in, and sometimes then it is difficult to put it in gear. :helpme:

Cold or warm matters not that much.
When you drive and slow down, it slides just in with no issues.
I find this car a heavy gear-changer in compare with "normal" passenger cars.

I did change the gearbox oil a week ago, filled with 75W80, clutch feels good.

Is there some addition to the oil that I can try, or is there an other option? Maybe other oil?
Is this a commen problem??

My previous GC had an automatic, no issues with that, except that I blew the overdrive part.... Well, it just could be me:smsoap:

So if anyone has a good tip, I really like to know,

Thanks!!!

Kees
Netherlands

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Synchronizer Ring. The Synchronizer is a brass allow part that allows the SLEEVE, Synchromesh Clutch Gear to engage. The gears themselves are fully meshed at all times (for those that do not know) and the Sleeve makes the connection between the gear and the output shaft.

When the teeth on the Synchronizer Ring wears, the symptom is difficult gear engagement. When it gets bad enough, the transmission will sound like the gears are being ground up. A sound one hopes to never hear.

IMO, take it to a respectable transmission shop for an opinion. Unfortunately, the only repair for this part is replacement and that means a rebuild of the transmission. The other option being replacing the box with a spare from the breakers.

Nopefully, someone else will have a more positive response for you.

 

[Ronbo]

I assume the transmission behind your 2.5L engine is the AX-5? In my AX-15 I use Pennzoil Synchromesh and have for many years without problems.
Did you check the fluid in the clutch master cylinder? It may not be releasing the clutch completely. How many miles on the clutch? It may feel fine, but that could also be the culprit. I would tend to look at those areas before thinking about a transmission rebuild.

 

[Spokes]

X2 on fluid. I was about to pull my clutch apart and than the lightbulb went off to check the fluid like a normal person lol my master cylinder had a leak. Replaced it and now it's 100% mine at times can be hard to get into gear when cold but that's the fluid being thick.

Try running redline oil in it. Man have had good luck with it. I'm going to put some in come spring time.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

 

[Keesie]

Okay, I will check the fluid again and refill it with new.

I personaly don't think it's the synchonizerring, I've rebuilt many, many gearboxes in my life of big trucks, and you feel when the inside of the g'box is hurt in that way.
This Jeep box is new to me, always had an automatic, so I don't have reference.

The car has 110000 miles on it, I don't know if the clutch has been replaced.
I thought it was the AX-5 yes.
I will look into that also.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I thought it was common to run 10W-30 synthetic in the XJ manuals.

 

[Keesie]

Never heard of using plain motoroil in a gearbox???

 

[Keesie]

Well, maybe you are right with clutch fluid...
Changed it and looked under the dash..., there are some drops of fluid visable.

I am going to change the master clutch cylinder, and try again.
You'll hear from me as soon as it's done.

Thanks so far.

Btw, clutch still feels good.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Ya Xjs use 10w-30 , thats what I ran in my 91 5spd, and threw some 10w-40 synthetic in a buddies 5 sod MJ, never shifted better. I also run 10w-30 in my honda accord, shifts smooth. A lot of Manaul transmissions that I've owned over the years call for 10w-30 motor oil.

I would say at this point it wouldn't hurt to swap the clutch master and slave and drain and fill and switch to 10w-40 synthetic( I like mobil 1 synthetic for the tranny)

 

[sidriptide]

Hello,

I did change the gearbox oil a week ago, filled with 75W80, clutch feels good.


Kees
Netherlands

this is exactly your problem. i smoked a good AX-5 in my YJ in only 4 or 5 days because i filled it with gear oil without thinking. they used to preach that Synchromesh was the only thing to use, but a few years back they said you can run 10W30 or an SAE30 motor oil.
the additives in the gear lube are VERY bad for the synchro rings.

 

[Keesie]

I have never heard of using motoroil in a trans...
If I say it here to my friends, they say probably that I am mad, or worse! :wierd:

This is what MPM Oil says: (in dutch, sorry)

Handgeschakelde versnellingsbak 5/1
Smeermiddel inhoud:
3,3 liter
Productaanbeveling:
18000G - Gearbox Oil 75W-90 GL-3/4/5 Premium Synthetic TDL
Service intervallen
Controleer elke 12000 km / 12 maanden

What Wikipedia says about trans oils or GL-type oils:
Gear oils are classified by the American Petroleum Institute using GL ratings. For example, most modern gearboxes require a GL-4 oil, and separate differentials (where fitted) require a GL-5 oil. It is important that purchasers check the oil against the vehicle manufacturer's specification to ensure it does not contain any aggressive chemicals that may attack yellow metal gear components, such as phosphor bronze.
API viscosity ratings for gear oils are not directly comparable with those for motor oil, and they are thinner than the figures suggest. For example, many modern gearboxes use a 75W90 gear oil, which is actually of equivalent viscosity to a 10W40 motor oil. Multigrade gear oils are becoming more common; while gear oil does not reach the temperatures of motor oil, it does warm up appreciably as the car is driven, due mostly to shear friction (with a small amount of heat conduction through the bellhousing from the engine block).

I search the internet and saw that Honda also had a car that used motoroil in the 'box...
But why is it that they say (officially) to use gearboxoil, if you say that's bad for the trans??

Can you please explain to me WHY to use motoroil in my gearbox??

Sorry for so much questions, but I have to know for sure, can't afford a new gearbox right now!

Thanks for all your help!!!

Kees

 

[Keesie]

After reading further on the net I came up with this:
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46102

So now I want to know, does it still helps the shifting in my box?
I know that the previous owner had the car dealer maintained, and the put gearoil in it every time....

And what's better in my case: 10W40 or 10W30, synthtic or not....?

Thanks again!!

Kees

 

[Forceful Llama]

I'm running full synthetic 10w-30 and haven't had a problem in 1.5 years or so. I'm going to toss in synchromesh soon only because it was cheap.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

I would consider whatever is easy to find, or whatever is on sale, either 10w-30 or 10w-40 synthetic. I also second the penzoil synchromesh, which is basically a yellow metal safe MTF with some additives.

 

[kastein]

You can run any yellow metal safe gear lube, but I run mobil1 full synthetic 10w30 because it is cheaper and I can use it in the engine too if I need to.

Worstcase you can always pull the box and put new synchro stop rings in it. They are around $20US each on quadratec and approximately the same amount on jeep4x4center, as I recall.