I find it most helpful to have a 9/16" 'flex' socket (socket w/inbuilt universal joint) for those rear lower screws. Having done this job a couple of times now, you can belive me when I say it's worth having!
Disassembly -
Yes, you need to remove the power steering pump at least - not necessarily the bracket.
Removing the EGR is a pain in the arse (and you should service that gasket as well, while you're about it) due to the Torx screws. Screws are threaded 5/16"-18, so you can replace with hex heads or socket head capscrews - I used hex socket heads, since I always have an easier time finding hex keys (probably because I have so many more of them.)
Bear in mind that if you break any sealed fluid connection on the fuel rail, you'll want new seals. If you take the two QD fittings off at the ends, you just need to replace those two - if you pull the rail, you'll be doing injector seals (although that may not be a bad idea. In fact, depending on vehicle Hx (read: if it's been done yet...) you may want to just change your injectors while you're there anyhow. Easy enough to tell - OEM RENIX injectors are plastic and metal crimped together to form the body, while replacements typically are not. Small Block Ford, Small Block Chevvy, and Chevvy LT1 injectors are all suitable replacements - and usually cheaper than OEMR. And, they won't leak at the body seam (like RENIX units eventually will.)
You're going to need to disconnect the electrical harness connectors. Make sure you label them before you do so - it's a pain sorting those out (it can be done with FSM wiring diagrams and good light to sort them by colour, but why do work you don't have to?)
Sourcing replacement parts -
EGR gaskets is OEMR only - the manifold gasket is easy enough in the aftermarket. I typically use Fel-Pro - it's easier to find than Victor-Reinz.
While you're getting your manifold gasket, pick up a tube of RTV copper.
See if you can source some LocTite #272 - it's the only grade that can handle exhaust heat, and save you some work. If you can't get #272 (or equivalent,) don't bother with anything.
Copper-alloy screws (I usually use silicon bronze) won't go amiss, either.
Get a couple of brass 3/8"-16 nuts for the collector flange studs as well, and for the downpipe-to-catalytic converter flange studs (if you take that apart as well.)
Reassembly -
Leave at least two studs in the head - even if you have to cut new ones (if I have to, I cut them from 3/8"-16 threaded rod. Cut to about 2" long, and get new nuts and washers.) Locations are at either end (in the exhaust flange) and about fifty-fifty for the top centre (also exhaust flange) - they're there so you have something to hang the exhaust on while you horse the intake into place.
Apply an even coat of RTV copper to both sides of the manifold gasket. The screws will work loose over time - the RTV will help the gasket stay sealed (check torque annually. This is a known quirk of side-draft inline six engines in general) and also help to prevent gasket burn-through.
Install all screws loosely, until you have all of those wretched things in place.
Once they're all set, you can work one screw at a time - pull out the screw, apply #272, and torque to spec. Repeat ~13 times (handle the stud nuts the same way.)
Treat the EGR gasket similarly. Use copper-based alloy screws if possible (5/16"-18x1")
And the donut packing for the exhaust collector flange. And the catalytic converter flange gasket, if you took that to bits as well. Use brass or bronze nuts for reassembly.
Why the RTV Copper? It will help seal the high-temperature exhaust gas, and help the gasket stay sealed if it gets loose.
Why the brass/bronze screws? They won't seize or corrode anywhere near as badly as the carbon steel ones the OEM used (check a marina supply house, or your local Fastenal. 5/16"-18x1" for the EGR valve, 3/8"-16x1-1/4" for the manifold, and 3/8"-16 nuts for the collector flange studs and catalytic converter flange studs. 3/8"-16 if you cut new manifold studs, or 3/8"-24 if you did not.)