88 cherokee skip

[1slowxj]

my 88 cherokee with the renix motor feels like its bogging down under a load it idles fine and clears right up if your past 3/4 throttle and accelerates as strong as it ever has.. seems to get worse as it heats up when it goes into closed loop mode notice it mainly when in 4th if i shit into 3rd runs like a dream so i've just been running it that way but has had a recent tune up plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter and a new coil because the old one was cracked! be so much easier if this freaking thing would throw codes!!! help please lol:wierd:

 

[Boveevil]

My 97 did something like that for a few weeks... turned out being a fuse for the O2sensor. Might be worth a look?

 

[1slowxj]

i will have to check it out just seems very strange lol

 

[cruiser54]

i will have to check it out just seems very strange lol

Your 88 doesn't hav any O2 sensor fuse.

Make sure your intake manifold bolts are not loose and that all vacuum lines are in good shape. Pay particular attention to the one between the throttle body and MAP sensor.

THIS is never a bad idea on a Renix 4.0:



Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 12-04-2012

 

[1slowxj]

all of that crap for a $0.20 piece of vacuum hose lol

 

[cruiser54]

all of that crap for a $0.20 piece of vacuum hose lol

It's usually simple stuff and rarely expensive sensors etc. Tell us what you found.