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4.56s and Powertrax No-Slip installed, question:

Kejtar said:
Yes if it's broken it can cause other breakage. If you're suspicious look inside: there is no way that you can determine if anything is broken without popping the cover and inspecting it. It's better to spend an hour or two looking then paying for it later.

Thats the problem, I was told you have to take the entire thing out to even know if its broken and thats why I paid for the install I wasn't too sure about doing it myself. The install guy said he check it out, but not till Tuesday or so.

I don't think anythings broken the clicking is very very soft. I'll just wait till tuesday and hope for the best.
 
Well its NOT working, aggghhh. It made the same clicking noise when I tried going up a steep hil and only my driverside rear tire would spin. So now I am scared cause I can't fix it myself and the guy that did the install can't help me for another 2 days. The guy is a freind, but if if something serious breaks and I get starnded I am gonna get him to pay for it one way or another.

Should I be scared to keep driving it? I oculd go get gear lube and something to seal the diff cover back on with, but I have no idea what to do to the inside, I can leave it open untill I get the no-slip fixed, but I don't know how to replace the gears/
 
ZachMan said:
Well its NOT working, aggghhh. It made the same clicking noise when I tried going up a steep hil and only my driverside rear tire would spin. So now I am scared cause I can't fix it myself and the guy that did the install can't help me for another 2 days. The guy is a freind, but if if something serious breaks and I get starnded I am gonna get him to pay for it one way or another.

Should I be scared to keep driving it? I oculd go get gear lube and something to seal the diff cover back on with, but I have no idea what to do to the inside, I can leave it open untill I get the no-slip fixed, but I don't know how to replace the gears/

well its easy to put the spider gears back in If your familer with it. The only real part to be concered with that depending on gear ratio, you may have to remove the carrier to replace the locker with them, cause the cross pin wont come out without removing the ring gear...

I would open it and see if the main cross pin will clear your ring gear (if that has you lost dont do this though). Ifit will clear just put the spider gears back in. just remember that each gear in the spider set gets a shim between it and the carrier..
 
ROBERTK said:
well its easy to put the spider gears back in If your familer with it. The only real part to be concered with that depending on gear ratio, you may have to remove the carrier to replace the locker with them, cause the cross pin wont come out without removing the ring gear...

I would open it and see if the main cross pin will clear your ring gear (if that has you lost dont do this though). Ifit will clear just put the spider gears back in. just remember that each gear in the spider set gets a shim between it and the carrier..

I know kinda what your speaking about, but I have 4.56s so I know they have to come out, the crosspin had to be notched.

So should I not drive? I have to make it to work tommorow and I've already been driving it like this 100 miles now.
 
ZachMan said:
I know kinda what your speaking about, but I have 4.56s so I know they have to come out, the crosspin had to be notched.

So should I not drive? I have to make it to work tommorow and I've already been driving it like this 100 miles now.
Dude, this is getting old, noone can diagnose your locker over the net. Pop the cover and see if any chunks fall out with fluid. If that's the case then you're in trouble. If no chunks fall out then find out what size is the check block and then get a drill bit of that size and spin the carrier around while checking the clearances. If the clearances are off then something is wrong.

If no chunks fall out and clearances are fine then most likely things are all right.
 
The check block is approximately 1/4".
 
Kejtar said:
Dude, this is getting old, noone can diagnose your locker over the net.
Hey Zach, sorry man, I won't be available any more to swap out your axle for mine. Yer on yer own! :wave:
ps. is this the same locker I was wanting off of the CAOS club BBS?? :laugh3:
 
Kejtar said:
Dude, this is getting old, noone can diagnose your locker over the net. Pop the cover and see if any chunks fall out with fluid. If that's the case then you're in trouble. If no chunks fall out then find out what size is the check block and then get a drill bit of that size and spin the carrier around while checking the clearances. If the clearances are off then something is wrong.

If no chunks fall out and clearances are fine then most likely things are all right.


One more reason why you should LEARN to do the work yourself instead of having a "buddy" do it for you....

Or at least, watch someone else do it so you can do it next time.
 
Jeffro600 said:
One more reason why you should LEARN to do the work yourself instead of having a "buddy" do it for you....

Or at least, watch someone else do it so you can do it next time.
lol didn't want to be so blunt myself... but it's a very good point ;)
 
Yup, Remi helped me with my 8.25 No-Slip. Then I went home and did the D30 No-Slip by myself. And I had never taken an axle apart before.

BTW, how many forums have you posted this question on? 4 or 5? And it seems that everyone is telling you the same thing. :)
 
Well the paddle was broken off the spacer thingee, damn thing was completly gone. So I am open diff for now till I order the part. My installer refunded me $30 since I told him thats what it would cost to get the new part.

I now know why people hate C-clip axles, took 3x as long to get the passengerside c-clip out as to take out the locker, install the spiders and seal everything back up.
 
Kejtar said:
If no chunks fall out and clearances are fine then most likely things are all right.

Wrong :laugh3:
 
ChuckstrPT said:
Hey Zach, sorry man, I won't be available any more to swap out your axle for mine. Yer on yer own! :wave:
ps. is this the same locker I was wanting off of the CAOS club BBS?? :laugh3:

I'd never swap, lol. You can buy it in about 6 months when I get my Detroited 8.8 in. :wave:

Yeap same No-Slip, seems its common to break the paddle off when installing them inan 8.25. I'll buy the $30 part and install it myself....P.S. if you need gears installed go to the Offroad Connection not a local on the CAOS boards.
 
Kejtar said:
most likely.... I was not wrong :D

Well I opened it up and there was zero metal shavings or anything. Infact when I pulled it out the paddle was still where it should be until I put it on the ground and it fell off, lol.
 
ZachMan said:
I know kinda what your speaking about, but I have 4.56s so I know they have to come out, the crosspin had to be notched.

This could be the problem.Normally you either disassemble the ring gear or grind a couple of teeth on the ring gear!
 
Kejtar said:
notching the pin is another way.

Yeah I just have a tiny bit more play on my left axle.
 
ZachMan said:
Yeah I just have a tiny bit more play on my left axle.
You might want to call Powertrax on this one.Since both drivers and both syncros are "spaced and driven" by the crosspin.You also created additional end-play in the axle.
 
OK, I have a question of somewhat the urgent matter. My 99 XJ is in a garage as we speak getting new 4.56" gears installed into the 8.25 with a Powertrax No Slip. The mechanic says that there is no way to install the crosspin, there is no room and saying I need a new carrier just like I did in the front dif. The pin will not clear the ring gear.

I tried searing for another tech thread about this issue, but couldn't find anything. If he notches the cross pin, will this work to clear the ring gear? I see some people on this board have the same set up, so do I need a new carrier or just need to notch the cross pin?

Any experienced input is welcome.

Cheers.
 
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