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4.56's and 35's

4.56 gearing with 32" tires. I would have preferred 3.73 or 4.11 with this tire size range. Roughly 2,684 RPM at 75 MPH in fourth gear on the AW4 is not the best mixture of gas mileage versus towing capability.
 
Even with an hp30 and a truss and a full case locker I get enough housing flex to loosen the preload on my ARB (rd30) and cause it to loosen up and leak air.

If I was running 488s I'd probably have lost a ring and pinion by now.

I've seen 4.88's with a spicer carrier and a lockright survive with 35's and even 37's for a 3months of abuse, No truss or anythiny and I believe even a stock diff cover, I guess it depense on how you use the skinny pendle and how good you are at R&P installs.
 
Ok I am thinking I am just going to save up and go 4.88 I really want the low speed crawl and tq to turn my tires. Thanks for all the input and if anyone has anything to add share it I'll keep checking.
 
See you on the broken side. Haha
Goodluck!
 
I think 4.88's will be ok and if they go kaboom I'll just swap in a 44 then but as light as I am on the skinny petal and how aware of where my tires are and any binding I may be putting through the drivetrain I don't think I'll have any problems for a long time. At the same time as the gearing I'm going to truss it and put the thickest diff cover on I can find with a full case locker and cross my fingers! Lol
 
I've worn out a lockright in my front 30 with 4.56's and the stock carrier. It's on it's second lunchbox locker. I am however only on 33's.
 
I think 4.88's will be ok and if they go kaboom I'll just swap in a 44

If you could realistically do that afterwards, isn't it better to do it now instead? Breaking stuff usually costs money that you don't have at the time.
 
If you could realistically do that afterwards, isn't it better to do it now instead? Breaking stuff usually costs money that you don't have at the time.


Great point
 
I don't have the money or the fab skills to swap a 44 in right now if I was to do the swap it will be from east coast gear supply and we are talking over $3,000 for a front diff.
 
My crawl ratio doesn't look like it would be to bad with 4.56's. We are talking about 9ft per min difference in low range at 750rpm I don't see it being a big difference to lose strength over. Anyone have anything to add? I would love some more imput.

If it were up to me, go 4.56, then spend some money on a 4:1 kit for your transfer case. Still have the full teeth engagement and have the low low gearing?
 
I like the Idea of 4.56's and a low range or a different tcase down the road. I think that is the way I am going to go. The wife will be out of school making money by the time I am ready for a tcase. So I think I will go 4.56's and a spartin in the rear for now and a arb down the road front and rear. I need gears soon and can't afford full case lockers right now I have to have this thing geared before March 1st. My 4wd club is putting on a special event for disabled vets that have extreme disabilities and I volunteered to put two of them in the jeep and I can't wheel this thing slow and safe with 3.07's.
 
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