4.5 short arm & 33's for daily

[b_palmer22]

I plan on doing the jeeptubes.com tube fenders with tailight boxes to trim for the 33's

I think its worth getting a trans cooler (longer life) but maybe not necessary .. my lines were leaking so i replaced them with an fittings and hose with a filer and temp guage. i just did that

Tranny cooler will be done also, its just cheap insurence. I'm really interested in those tube fenders. Do they come complete ready to screw/blot on or do they need to be fabbed with sheet metal?

 

[RCP Phx]

I heard that the JKS arms are superior to the RE arms because they flex in the middle instead of at the johnny joints. I may be looking at other kits if i ever get an email back from RE about where their springs are made. If they're made in India probably not. I didnt spend a whole year here in afghanistan to support another country.

A flex-joint of some kind works better,XJ arms move 3 dimensionally thoughtout the supension cycle.As far as worrying about where the springs are made,unless your dealing direct with somebody like Deaver or Alcan,they wont be made in the USA.Most "Vendors" of "lift kits" dont have USA made springs.

 

[OutkastBoss]

tranny cooler will be done also, its just cheap insurance. I'm really interested in those tube fenders. Do they come complete ready to screw/blot on or do they need to be fabbed with sheet metal?

it came with the stupid zip ties with spacer things and it came with metal brackets (i used these) i did have to bend them and get a bit creative to mount it but its solid and doesn't touch my ac condenser i have it in front on passenger side.

also came with new fittings for changing to barbed coming out of and into the radiator heat exchanger ( i opted to run through because i do get up in the mountains in Snow and want the trans at a Good operating temp)

i had to cut the front little piece of of the drivers side "frame" so that i could use the barbed fitting at bottom of radiator (i hated the "quick" disconnects) and the one supplied was a straight shot where the stock came out at and did a 90 turn..

If you do a temp guage be shure to ground the body of the sending unit (especially if you upgrade to hose) .

I used Talyn's walk through http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1026658&highlight=trans+cooler+install
(same parts excepts i used jeg's hose)

he only did hose back to halfway to the rear I Used hose all the way back and used GrimmJeeper's setup for the rear http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1045807&page=3

hers my threads on the matter if you care to look

http://208.101.10.250/~naxjaor1/forum/showthread.php?p=245419566

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1068222

 

[OutkastBoss]

I need to practice reading comprehension I misread your question..

They are ready to bolt on except for the fab (lol)..
you cut the tubes to set how far you need them to stick out (up to 6" i think) weld them on then you have to get some sheet and make the small part that spans between the tube and the fender and weld that on .. ( prime paint and it comes with pre drilled (i believe countersunk) holes and hardware

I will probably pay the guy that i found to do my cage to do those for me .. (he said i could help!) hes really cool considering hes wasted plenty of time talking with me and i haven had him do one job yet ( he own Izzy's custom cages) (i want a hybrid cage)

Also i have Jks LCa's and i love them they twist freely rather that resisting like the stock.. Maybe I'm short a dimension (mine are 2d?) i have heard that before somewhere else but it doesn't seem to bother me much

 

[OutkastBoss]

Oh yea also Tomken makes some bolt on ready tube fender but they are pricey and they don't go down all the way in the back (up front) or on the front (in back) so i think the jeep tube ones look better (more like cruzin illusions bad assery he did)

 

[lazyxj]

I heard that the JKS arms are superior to the RE arms because they flex in the middle instead of at the johnny joints.

I run JKS lowers and RE Super-flex uppers. Both have over 50,000 miles on them. The JKS lowers are still tight and the bushings are in good shape.
During the same period, one of the RE SF uppers needed a rebuild kit and both were tightened several times. And yes, they were lubed regularly.
No real complaints about the RE arms other than the increased maintenance. If you go with RE, get the joint tools or make/buy a spanner wrench. They need to be very tight.
In retrospect, JKS uppers would have been a better buy for my application.

 

[Blk96XJ]

Im making the jump soon. Going from 3" with 31s to 4.5"-5" with 33x12.5s. I have 15x10 with 4" BS Soft 8s. Sye and shims are on my list, adjustable upper CAs.

The tranny cooler is now on my list. I wanna re-gear soon after but would like a locker 1st.

 

[OutkastBoss]

you can save some $ if you can manage to regear and lock at same time ( I know that's alot of $) ..

And save a little more by bringing them just the axle..

 

[beater96xj]

i ran my xj on 33 inch mtrs with about 6.5 inches lift wit 355s and the short arm xflex kit from rough country and stock brakes....fine for a DD had no problems at all.....rubicon express springs seem to sag out quick and get real soft...there rear leafs are great i think..plus they are too expensive i got my complete kit for 900 and that was 4.5 wit upper and lower adjustables break lines t case drop leaf packs disconnects