4.0 0331 Head Swap '00 XJ Sport

[ihscoutlover]

Head Bolts being readied to be removed:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Here is another rockers removed for clarity:

 

[Kingkong0192]

Oh my god dude, that valve cover looks BAD. I thought mine was bad with a slight milkshake. Was your oil pressure within the specs? Personally, i'd be concerned with that.

Oh, and i'm STILL waiting for my head to ship in.

I also found it much easier to remove the radiator, but obviously, it isn't necessary.

 

[ihscoutlover]

Next shot/angle with the exhaust manifolds moved away from the head:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Front exhaust stud that will have to be transferred to the new head:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Head bolts removed:

 

[ihscoutlover]

The moment of truth, the head is gone!!!!:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Another angle of the bare block top, the coolant you see was some of the residual from the head as it came out:

 

[ihscoutlover]

The head gasket as it was stuck to a part of the block that lead me to believe that was the area that got hot/cracked or the head gasket was damaged in:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Another angle of the head gasket, stuck to block around the #3/#4 cylinder pushrod chamber:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Head gasket removed:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Head off the block, being inspected initially:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Another angle of removed head:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Back side of head removed, 180k miles on this head by the way, and I am figuring that this is the original head:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Top of block nearly cleaned up:

 

[ihscoutlover]

More pictures to follow later this evening.....

Jeff

 

[WTF_LOL]

With so much coolant in your oil I would be concerned about the health of your main bearings. Have you had any indication that you have spun a bearing? Knocking?

Not sure how long you need your vehicle back but may be worth just pulling and going through it while you have it apart. The work will be much easier with the block on a stand anyway :repair: :dunno:

 

[ihscoutlover]

With so much coolant in your oil I would be concerned about the health of your main bearings. Have you had any indication that you have spun a bearing? Knocking?

Not sure how long you need your vehicle back but may be worth just pulling and going through it while you have it apart. The work will be much easier with the block on a stand anyway :repair: :dunno:

That coolant was on the upper half of the engine. Nothing in the pan oil. No knocking, or any issues that would indicate the bearings are worn. Most of what you are seeing on the top of the engine is actually oil. I was running Rotella 15W40 prior to this swap, as well as a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer. These two items might have saved my bearings, as well as catching it early, and as you will see later, the total failure and why you really should evaluate it first, then swap it out if you are in doubt.

Jeff

 

[ihscoutlover]

Next rounds, after cleaning the block up:

Another of the prepped and ready block:

Head gasket in place:

New cast head in position, with a few of the head bolts going in:

 

[ihscoutlover]

Head down and ready for torquing, bolts and studs being placed into the proper positions:

The illustrious #11 bolt and the sealant for the threads since this is the only bolt going through a water passage/jacket:

Torque sequence according to the Haynes repair manual, as I don't have a FSM just yet:

Torque specs in three steps: