35's or tera 4:1

[Los11]

Yeah I would do the install myself i did the SYE kit in it wasnt to hard plus I am about to put in the ter2low kit so that why I am thinking, of sticking with the 33's and doing the 4:1 while I am there..... I have the 33 for sale right now if I sell them i will go 35's I am just wondering if the 35's would make a big difference over my 33's I do alot of rock crawling like I said Paragon and toher places just wondering what to do..

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Get a klune 4:1 and flip a dana300 if you have a 5sp (better then 8:1), or a flipped d300 with a 4:1 in it if you run an auto.

In the rocks youll need all the T-case gears you can get, and a NP231 isent the way to go. 33s, 35s, 42in tires, that does not matter. Ive seen guys on 35s with 8:1 t-case reduction, do sick trails with buggies on 42s and portal axles.

Gearing is more imporant then tire size.

though I have BIG tires and NO T-case gears...yet.

 

[Kernel]

have to do it.... get an atlas. 5 to 1 :rof:

 

[Los11]

An atlas is out of my price range.... I was gonna get the 4:1 for the 231 cause I can get it for $750 shipped and I already have 400 bucks into it with the SYE and ter2low kit.. I am not to fimiliar with the d-300 besides getting the 4:1 for it and the flip kit for the drivers drop can I still you my cv driveshaft in the rear or do I need to get different drive shafts what else is custom with the d-300 the twin sticks would be custom. anybody have any pics or writeups on this I am interested.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

An atlas is out of my price range.... I was gonna get the 4:1 for the 231 cause I can get it for $750 shipped and I already have 400 bucks into it with the SYE and ter2low kit.. I am not to fimiliar with the d-300 besides getting the 4:1 for it and the flip kit for the drivers drop can I still you my cv driveshaft in the rear or do I need to get different drive shafts what else is custom with the d-300 the twin sticks would be custom. anybody have any pics or writeups on this I am interested.

Like all mods you can pay big bucks or do it your self.
A d300 would need new drive shafts and a T-case mount.
D300 costs about $250-400 for a stock one.
The D300 can be flipped for cheep. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273505
(Id just use some welded up box tube, no Machined Aluminum...)
4:1s for a d300 from tera are about $695.
You will want a clocking ring: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286449
Gear cases are stronger then chan cases like the NP231.
The split case is really nice, Shifters are easy to make or buy.

Will you brake your NP231?
Id consider the upgrade before tossing more $$ into a NP231 if you will eventually grow out of it?
If your life long goal is 35s and 4:1, probibly keep the NP231. but if you decided to do axle swaps, and larger tires 38s+, do the D300 now.

have fun.

 

[Kernel]

Like all mods you can pay big bucks or do it your self.
A d300 would need new drive shafts and a T-case mount.
D300 costs about $250-400 for a stock one.
The D300 can be flipped for cheep. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273505
(Id just use some welded up box tube, no Machined Aluminum...)
4:1s for a d300 from tera are about $695.
You will want a clocking ring: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286449
Gear cases are stronger then chan cases like the NP231.
The split case is really nice, Shifters are easy to make or buy.

Will you brake your NP231?
Id consider the upgrade before tossing more $$ into a NP231 if you will eventually grow out of it?
If your life long goal is 35s and 4:1, probibly keep the NP231. but if you decided to do axle swaps, and larger tires 38s+, do the D300 now.

have fun.

don't forget about cutting that hole into your floor for both the atlas and 300 twin sticks.

 

[RCP Phx]

I can get it for $750 shipped

Where???????????

 

[XJ_ranger]

4:1 fo shure

 

[EricsXJ]

Im running 4.56's.

OK great. That's what I have (8.25 limit) and here's my plans which sound similar to you in that I am planning on 35's and also maybe Tera 4 to 1. Right now I love the 33's / 4.56 gearing combo. I plan on 35's and of course lower gears would be nice but are not possible with the 8.25 rear. (I don't want to get into an axle debate here, but 35's are the largest I see myself at for a LONG time and the 8.25 can handle 35's so thats why I kept what I had) Anyway, I will be getting the 35's first, mostly just because I'm planning on stepping up to that size when my current 33's are worn out. There's no way I could afford to get the Terra 4 to 1 before that occurs because I also need to get alloy shafts front and rear before then also to better handle the 35" tires.

I drove 31's and stock 3.55 gears for 2 years and yes it kinda sucked, but I got used to it. I imagine running 35's w/ 4.56 will be similar to 31's and stock gears... So I can deal with that, but adding the Terra 4 to 1 will bring back the nice low gearing for the trail so there is no sacrifice there. If I happened to break the 231 before I get the Terra 4 to 1, then I might consider an Atlas as a replacement and then I wouldn't need to do the Terra 4 to 1.

With everyone saying to get the Terra 4 to 1, I realize my opinion to get the 35's first might be unpopular, but who cares? Do what you want to do.

 

[Los11]

Well its more about having the D30 up front that concerns me if I were to go to 35's. I am a firm believer that the 8.25 is a STOUT AXLE I have put money into it and dont care I have seen people with 37's and 8.25 rear and never break. I just did 4.56's a detroit and yukon shafts in my 8.25 so that will handle the 35's but the 30??? I was thinking of either doing the super 30 kit or a 44 front. The super 30 kit seems easier, but I know I know why put money into the 30....... If I can afford a 44 build up I will do it.. The reason I am thinking of doing the super 30 kit is because I dont want to go bigger than 35's in the future my goal is 35's thats it, and I have seen alot of people run 35's on the 30 and not break anything then I also see people break the shitz out of it.. so I guess maybe the thing to do is the 4:1 for lower crawl ratio and go 35's after my wedding which is in 10 months.........

 

[JohnJohn]

The only special tool, would be a torque wrench.Rob

Don't forget you'll need a 15mm box end wrench cut in half. Or set of the Blackhawk stubbies. However the cut wrench works better, you'll have more clearance with the open ended part cut off. You need that to get to the top bolt between the t-case and tranny.

The install is easy, heck I did it. Get a friend to help you hold the t-case in place when re-installing it. My floor jack wouldn't go up high enough, so I had to hold it in place while tightening the nuts...A REAL B!TCH. If I had friend it would have been a lot eaiser...still working on finding a friend... :bawl:

 

[hjeepxj]

Well its more about having the D30 up front that concerns me if I were to go to 35's. I am a firm believer that the 8.25 is a STOUT AXLE I have put money into it and dont care I have seen people with 37's and 8.25 rear and never break. I just did 4.56's a detroit and yukon shafts in my 8.25 so that will handle the 35's but the 30??? I was thinking of either doing the super 30 kit or a 44 front. The super 30 kit seems easier, but I know I know why put money into the 30....... If I can afford a 44 build up I will do it.. The reason I am thinking of doing the super 30 kit is because I dont want to go bigger than 35's in the future my goal is 35's thats it, and I have seen alot of people run 35's on the 30 and not break anything then I also see people break the shitz out of it.. so I guess maybe the thing to do is the 4:1 for lower crawl ratio and go 35's after my wedding which is in 10 months.........

As long as your right foot isnt lead, you'll be fine.

If you do run it for a while and start breaking shafts, get a 44...I wouldn't waste time on putting a super 30 kit into a 30...but thats just MO, plus, you cant get spare shafts for cheap anymore...

 

[Renegade Jpr]

He got 33's a few weeks ago, so he has tires. :shocked:

-Mike

Ah, ok...wel go 4:1 and never look back. Only thing is your Jeep will now SUCK in mud and sandy condtions. In 4hi you wont have enough power and in 4low you wont have enough wheel spin. Ever look into getting a Klune-V? Thats the way to go in my opinion.

 

[Los11]

Hey ericxj, I ordered 35's.... I figured what the hell its the size tire I want why wait. I cut the s h i t out of my fenders cause I bent the driverside to shit the other day wheeling so once I started cutting like crazy, then the 33's started looking small a 6 pack later I was on the phone with tire-rack now 35's are on the way..... I have the yukon shafts in my 8.25 and would like to do the yukon alloys for the 30 whenever they have them for sale..... I am just thinking of my gearing I just geared them to 4.56's cause I had the 33's you know plus I am a fan of the 8.25....A buddy of mine has wheeled the snot out of his 8.25 27spline w/ 37's and never broke it... Anyway what do you guys think of the 4.56's with the 35's on the trail its an auto?? So the 4:1 will have to wait a bit my soonto be wife said as a wedding gift I can get the tera 4:1 so in about 9 months I will have it... She also agreed to that cause I told her 5 new 35 MTR's were only 350 bucks from Tire-rack oh well gotta hide the bill. Take care guys I will post some pics when I am done. One more question I have cut a good amount on the front fenders do you guys think I still need to do bigger bumpstops in the front... In the rear I am going to use DPG adjustables.. Take care

 

[Ramsey]

already lying at your not even married yet, good start

 

[EricsXJ]

Cool! 9 months is not too long to have to wait for something like Tera Low. I'll be very interested in hearing your impressions about the gearing (35's with 4.56) since I think I'll be going to 35's in the spring.

 

[DorkAlert]

My opinion:

Don't waste your time with the NV/NP231...once the drive chain stretches out it gets really annoying...and yes, that big thick steal layered chain does stretch out...Like has been suggested I would look in to a Dana 300... much smarter.. and if you have to sell your xj you can always take the T-case with you and put it in what ever other car you purchase...like a honda CRV..or a minivan...or if you are really cool.. an AMC Eagle...

 

[Los11]

I'll let ya know Eric.... I am thinking on the D300 I guess when the time comes i willl $700 the 4:1 is not a bad investment in my eyes.... And I can always do the HD chain for the np231. But if I can do the 300 that would be nice. There's just alot to think about the gears, clocking ring etc etc..The 300 itself.......

 

[Mike L]

I'll let ya know Eric.... I am thinking on the D300 I guess when the time comes i willl $700 the 4:1 is not a bad investment in my eyes.... And I can always do the HD chain for the np231. But if I can do the 300 that would be nice. There's just alot to think about the gears, clocking ring etc etc..The 300 itself.......

There's more to flipping it other than just the clocking ring. The clocking ring would just make it able to be rotated flat with the stock setup. Flip Kit The flip kit itself is $550, but that includes all the necessary parts and the twin shifters. The stock ratio of the 300 is 2.6 to 1. So you will still need to order a 4 to 1 kit with the Dana 300, unless you get lucky and find one with the TeraLow kit already done. Just my $.02 and good luck.

-Mike

 

[Safari Ary]

The 4:1 for a D300 is conciderably cheaper at under $500. Even if you used all store bought parts and didn't do the "$20 flip" discussed on Pirate, I think you could still do it for under 1000 on top of the case purchase price. D300s go for 200-300 on a regular basis. So I think you're probably looking at $1200, a weekend to build the case if you've never done one before, and a good weekend to install it.

Disclaimer: I haven't done one, but the prices I posted are real. I've been doing research on this since I've been contemplating doing it in my XJ if I can find a way to avoid selling it.

Ary