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33's to 35's - how big of a difference?

I wouldn't say that, but damn was it expensive to prep for 35's and upgrade everything else because of them.

Mine doesn't seem to break shit as much as it just wears it out really fast. I don't break an axle every trip, but I have to change one from the ears spreading every trip. I didn't break a fairly fresh ball joint, I just wore it out really fast. It also accelerated the death of my steering box, etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc :laugh2:
 
Well I'm glad we can all still get along! My post may have been to the point (of disagreement for some), but it was sent out light heartedly (if that's a word)

And fwiw, I think a prematurely worn out part is a broken part :)
 
Mine doesn't seem to break shit as much as it just wears it out really fast. I don't break an axle every trip, but I have to change one from the ears spreading every trip. I didn't break a fairly fresh ball joint, I just wore it out really fast. It also accelerated the death of my steering box, etc etc etc etc etc etc etc etc :laugh2:

Understandable, but like I said, I planned upgrades before even thinking of 35's.

No way I'd run stock shafts with 35s, and if you are bending chromos, you must be doing something wrong. RCV's were an easy choice there.

My balljoints don't have many miles on them. Hoping they aren't worn out, but I do have death wobble and I haven't exactly checked them recently.

Unit bearings can wear out very quickly if they aren't torqued exactly right. Low or high torque can kill em quick, which I discovered a few years ago.

Steering is quite an issue as well. My box is shot too, but plans are to put on hydro assist very soon. Box is tapped, I just need the ram now. The box might be toast though since it has a ton of play, so a tapped reman might be coming sooner rather than later.
 
I have chromos, they are just in a box lol. Been to busy to do much jeep work, it has been second place to the race car here lately. Last time I went wheeling I did take my new chromos as spares lol.
 
i had chromos in my d30 with 35's. twisted one and broke the other. i was NOT easy on it when that happened. if you aren't too hard on it, it would probably be fine.
 
If your unibody just sits on your axles, you don't need stiffeners. If you tend to flex the jeep to the point that 1 or 2 tires are not in contact with the ground, it should be obvious that the additional weight directly correlates to additional unit body stress. With your upgraded parts, axle shafts, steering, rear axle, and gears for all of you who give advice without reading the first post, you'll be fine on 35's.
 
I have 35s on 4.10 gears and haven't had a single issue. Also I disagree with axles "carrying tire weight." The majority of weight is carried above the axles, not on the sides of them. Axles are rated for how much weight they can carry, not how big a tire you can run.
 
P.s. I also have a low pinion d30 with stock shafts and I've never had a problem.
 
I have 35s on 4.10 gears and haven't had a single issue. Also I disagree with axles "carrying tire weight." The majority of weight is carried above the axles, not on the sides of them. Axles are rated for how much weight they can carry, not how big a tire you can run.

we were talking about the unibody taking the extra weight, when the suspension droops with heavier items CONNECTED TO the unibody...

i didnt read anything about axle ratings yet, lets talk tow capacity next....

Hasta
 
Thats OK. It was kind of a stupid post anyway.

Some interesting comments, kind of explains some of the crazy trail carnage I have seen in the past.
 
Dad: Son, you are going to go run, XXXXX trail, with those 35's on?!
Son: Yep, I've got good axles, it'll be okay
Dad: It's too much tire for your set up.....
Son: It'll be okay
Son (a few hours later, from phone): Dad? Can you take a short side shaft from Mom's jeep and bring it out to me on XXXX trail so I can get home tonight? Please??
Dad: Uhg......
Yeah, true story. Ran for years with 33's but first time out with 35's, not so good.
 
Well, I run 35" Pit Bull rockers and 10" wide steel wheels so its over 100 pounds per corner. I run 4:10 gears with auto. I have run my dana 30 with Aussie locker and factory Comanche AMC20 rear axle with locker. I do run ZJ cv shafts in the 30. factory brakes with duel diaphragm booster. 6" lift with long arms. I wheel much more aggressive then you stated (Trail driving style is cruising/crawling) and i drive to all my wheeling trips and weekend drive my MJ, I have no problems at all I don't break shafts ,if i stay out of deep water my unit bearings last..well until I get in deep water..(water kills them) now I have upgraded the steering none of its factory. and my 35" tires are 35" tall, my 33s when i ran them were 33" tall ,the larger tire is just great it does everything better than the 33. don't think you have to rebuild your whole ring like some would make you think. and if you start to like hill climbs or mud..keep your gearing in line, 488 gears will take away a lot of wheel speed for cleaning out mud, also 488 gears will exert a ton more torque to the axle and is the reason some guys are always breaking shafts. if you don't do a lot of hwy driving then 4:10 or 4:56 is plenty. I have run my rockers over 2 years and they are incredible. the biggest thing you have to do is provide clearance for the tires. do that first, then wheel..enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjN42llOldE&list=UUZQodBtNSQlIZg0u97fDQ2w&index=2&feature=plcp
 
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