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$3000 to make a wheeler...how best to spend it?

shoot man, just go with the tnt kit, get a sye and ds, run stock wheels for a while till you can afford it... that way you wont have to regear for a while either. plus i'm sure it would look super sweet.:thumbup:

p.s. i dont know why its all underlined.... i cant make it go away... must be hyperlink herpes
http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjylinksystem.asp
 
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4.5 inch lift with long arms
lock-rites front and rear
tj axle shafts
porc sye front drive shafts of an auto 6 cyl xj
buy some used 33's on steelies
tow receiver (front)
sliders and your good to go. I wouldnt spend the money to re-gear stock axles personally. Wait till you upgrade to d44's or something more dependable. Thats just me though
 
bandit455 said:
get a jcr bumber as they are very cheap and the sponser naxja

they have great mounting kist as well

If i was you i would go 3.5"

be sure to regear!

Got
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My opinion:

Stock Skid Plates from Junk Yard:
Gas Tank: 25
T-case: 25
Front: 25

Skid plate from online:
Engine/Belly: 200-250

Trailer Hitch: 75
Tow Hooks: 75

Okay, bases covered for about 500

Now, Lift:

Procure a bunch of leaves, use Chevy S-10 Blazer leaves:

$50 = 4.5" lift in rear

Front lift: Springs from Rustys or something, : $130

Now up to what, $700 ish?

Get some good shocks, and a longer shackle for the rear. This will ease the rear suspension up a bit so it will flex more. I have a very flexible lift using s-10 springs (the thin ones which are long) and longer shackles.

Shackles: 75
Shocks: 200

Get a good HD Track Bar: $200

Swaybar links: Find them and make them into quick disconnects:

$30-$130 depending on how resourceful you are. You can take non-quick disconnects, put a wingnut on top and drill out the bolt on the bottom and put in a washer and a cotter pin, works great and it costs about $5

Alright, conservative estimate, we are up to 1350, right?

Get a SYE and Driveshaft. Use a front driveshaft or just break down and get a good one.

$400-500

Spend the rest on wheels and tires. It has cost $2000 to this point. I recommend spending another $1000 on gears and a locker, then go with 33's.

All told will cost about $4000. Should be sweet. Spend money where necessary, skimp where you can. No reason to spend $10,000
 
Second thought, go with 35's. Why not, if you are going to go all out all at once, go big.

And I think $4000 is conservative assuming you are resourceful and find good deals and do all of your own work.
 
my thought as well, if your gonna go to all the time and effort to be resourceful, you need to upgrade the control arms and get adjustable ones while your at it.
 
as great of an option as bastardizing and junkyard lifts are

when your getting up to 4.5" of lift your gonna need to replace enough parts that it almost seems worth to just go with a complete kit that is warrantied
 
I did a 3.73 rear (from an XJ with a SOA into my MJ) with 5 1/2" front coil/lower arms and trac bar swap (made shock extenders and use YJ brake hoses) 33/9.50/15 tires ($500 in any of the lower 48 except WA where they want $250 shipping. May have a road trip to OR coming up! <G>)
Leaves me LOTS for bumpers, skids, etc. and junkyard shopping (I would do an 8.8 with 3.73 in a hurry!)
 
i had a 3in lift and 31's originally with all stock axles and a t-case drop on a 2000. it went alot of places. i got "inchitis" and felt the need to go bigger with 5inch lift and 33's. bumpers, winch, sye, gears, lockers, beef axles, probably 7000 dollars later, it's all dented up and i don't like to take it on long road trips. my advice; if it's gonna be your daily driver then go small. you'll be opening a huge can of worms. ask yourself what you really want.

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another thing noone mentioned, i hope you're handy with tools to keep fixing broken things all the time, you will get worse gas mileage and tear through components ie, ball joints, brakes, steering, ect. i really don't mean to discourage you just think about it. i wish someone would have warned me a couple years ago.
 
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